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Salut, welcome to Prime :) Good luck on your turbo build, do you plan to drive it on public roads in France ?

I think keeping the bypass valves with only 1 setting is actually the gimmick of the Ohlins DFV (it's in the acronym itself). In real use it's indeed really good.

Got one that's still working if you want to play extra for shipping + customs (i'm in EU).

Fantastic photos. LOL this shows your car gets driven. I dont think one could get by even for a few miles without a lift system and keep that front lip intact. On mine the front lip is holding by the magic of hopes and prayers at this point :D Side note I'm getting ideas with that rear...

Original R&T article: https://www.roadandtrack.com/news/a60446588/1992-acura-nsx-barn-find-emerges-with-only-2000-miles/

FWIW they use higher grade materials to start with. Also a fully CNC'ed part from billet is always structurally superior to cast, due to metallurgy: cast metal has a lower elasticity modulus, and will bend/break sooner. So yes you can then forge cast parts in order to get a thermodynamic reflow...

It's CNC'ed billet alu which is much stronger than cast parts. It would make zero sense for the OEM to do this due to insane costs & labor as opposed to a cast, large series produced part that's why Honda went with a recycled Accord/Legend bracket. I get the NSX chassis had a large amount of...

I've had that bracket (and the engine mounts from the same source) for about 2 years now and zero issue despite tracking the car and very spirited driving, and bumpy roads full of pot holes. You still use the OEM alternator.

Thanks :) That was in Austria. In now 3 weeks see you in Italy ! I really need a new front lip... But I need to install that lift system first or it will get destroyed as well. It's in the works, new center console has to go in first so I can install the lift system button. It's not yet the end...

Yeah Europe, near Geneva.

I have the 95-01 spare tire and the holder too somewhere. It's really heavy though shipping will be more expensive than the item itself..

There are a few 2002-2005 NA2 coupes in EU too by the way (if you prefer LHD) ;)

If you import to France directly, IIRC that's the only thing you'll have to do - no TUV like in Germany - just get the lights and blinkers sorted out. It will have to pass emissions (and MOT) but that should be straightforward for a stock-ish NSX. For the rear fog light that might be tricky as...

Welcome and congrats ! Yes, check Science Of Speed I believe they still sell a window track kit with teflon bushings.

Lots of NSX in this one, including a meetup at the Peninsula Hotel of the HK NSX club (and the video is part of an awesome series):

The 16-17 setup is stock pre-facelift NA2 or NA1 type R sizes. Maybe the TCS computer was changed ?

The guys at @MITA Motorsports can probably help you here.

There are small things you must adapt so the car is road legal here. Importing cars from the USA is common so there are companies specialized in this precisely, you should really ask them. Should be easy for you as the car was sold here too so it's just a matter of doing these small adaptations...

Spa is really intense like most F1 tracks are - I suppose on your side of the pond an equivalent would be Laguna Seca maybe ?

After driving a lot on wet roads and bad conditions with the Goodyear Eagle F1 A6 (17/18 setup) - they are amazing on the wet. Incredible grip and hydroplaning resistance. Rain at highway speeds is not an issue. Dry grip is plenty enough still. I will probably renew them and not go to the...

I can confirm these two points, same experience. I've seen ruined engines from the stock harmonic damper. Get the shield at least or better the ATI damper indeed. I still got fading on Hawk HP+ after 5 laps at Spa but that's a really fast track. Zero problem on mountain roads though.

Welcome,it's a long and expensive journey :) I followed a similar path with mine, with some adaptations of course and some additions (like CF bumper beams, CF side vents, aluminum alternator bracket, billet engine mounts, etc.) - idea is to go lightweight as much as possible without sacrificing...

It's in the shop manuals, small differences every year - there is a discussion there https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/changes-by-year.218218/ there's a 1998 supplement, then a 1999 supplement, etc. - also it was definitely built in 1998 as its first registration was that year. Had to find this...

Almost :) My VIN is JHMNA2140XT000002 => I suppose it's registered for 1999 but it was initially sold in november, 1998 (and it's mechanically a 1998 model). Color was initially Silverstone Silver but it got a new paint long before I bought it and is now close to Kaiser Silver. You can find my...

For any year or just earliest NA1 ? My NA2 is number 002 in '98.