Search results

You should post the VIN of your past vehicle.

Might try a UK version. Won't be inexpensive. The RHD(JDM) wire codes, connectors, and locations are the same as LHD. They only real difference is at the dash & doors and that is by relative location. Service Manuals are hard to find for other markets.

Doug DeMuro did a review on NA1-1200258. my failing memory believes he went over production numbers. https://carsandbids.com/auctions/rGWL2A8O/1994-honda-nsx

Might start with a compression test...don't have to take off the valve covers and will let you know the internal timing. I'm not sure there is any second-guessing on doing a timing belt that would be unwarranted.

@Old Guy is likely correct (as usual), his prognosis is dire though requiring a rebuild. You might try double clutching for 4th gear. If it works, then more credence for a bad syncro. You can double clutch indefinitely or skip shift 4th. If you can wait until the clutch requires replacement...

The rust is a Red Herring. You can get all the parts to rebuild it, but probably won't make a difference for this issue. I painted that base when I performed the AT->MT conversion. I recommend re initializing the clutch. Takes a few minutes. I suspect the clutch discs aren't clearing the...

I've purchased ~10 used JDM vehicles direct from Japan (including my current NSX). They don't come with any original paperwork or receipts. I have no idea why. The people involved in the process just shrug when asked. Plenty of service stickers though. Fun fact: They check for nuclear...

Did anyone follow up with OCO Connectors? It would be interesting Usually I find such sites to post scraped down data and are awaiting for a payday of an inquiry. However, they might actually have a box of rubber boots laying around.

Yes, that is it. Cannot determine who made it. I'm guessing Mitsumi as it used for high amp fan applications. It was used on early JDM 90s Accords and variants. Only used on the NSX for Honda past mid-90s. The 2pin was used up to the 2000's as radiator fan motor connectors.

The following boots work well, but are not concours Jaguar X-type 2002-2013 Mitsubishi Colt ( (I had an hour to kill so scouted and acquired at junkyard. So available for trade or photos...BTW: I'm looking for the 3-pin connector that is on the radiator resistor or MVAC fan resistor) Probably...

You can put R12 in a system designed for a R134 system no problem with either mineral oil or ester. You are not supposed to blend refrigerants.* Yes, you may have to swap pulleys. You may have to swap manifolds. This is all reasonable retrofitting. The bracket for a 3.2 is different...not...

The base unit should all be the same....the displacement is different What unit did they send you?

54151-SL0-A01 is the difference for LHD and RHD. That base can be converted from AT to MT at significant cost savings as it is the same basic part. I am presuming OP is LHD. I recommend OP DM me for my DIY (I'm on a plane back to NZ, so short responses. )

Careful, the shifter and base are different from LHD to RHD. I believe the cables are the same. Here is the RHD sheet https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/honda-japan/nsx/E-NA1/14741/steering/26348 And the LHD...

Buyee.jp has them There is a set on trademe.co.nz LMK if you need help, but it is likely to be extremely costly to ship.

You have the correct basic part number. Is the ODB connector located on this part for this car? (I believe I have one with ODB to sell or take pictures as necessary.)

I believe the interior door handle fasteners are cadmium/yellow on the sheet metal part and black ones are for the front (black) plastic

The pivoting part of the handle has value as they do break, so don't trash the entire assembly.

It's worse than that for OP, as the whole assembly and fasteners are highly suspect. And swapped and subsequently buggered retainers might very well be this issues root cause.

It order to avoid search confusion over RSX, I recommend something like NS-RX. nsx sash removal extractor Nice stuff.

I come from the Mad Max of commuting and parking dystopia of Los Angeles. Downtown, The Valley, and Hollywood are areas where ones car gets bruised and scratched on a weekly basis. If I took stuff like this to the body shop I'd be $5-$10k every other week and on I would get nothing else done...

The 262 is the key for the D8 connector as there are at least TWO different standards for the D8 apparently (bad DIN committee!). I recommend the D13 so the D8 can be used for other audio things in the future. Then again, everything is getting so small that the connectors are bigger than the...

>Is there any chance you are aware of the part number for the unit tester from Honda? There is no SST from Honda that I know of for the cluster. It was likely assembled, tested, and calibrated at Nippon Seiki. The unit that Tanto is likely referring to is the one at T3Tec. Years ago, I...

I would buff out all the black marks. Hit it with some touch up, sand it with 1200, and repeat until uniform. Then buff with some 3M polishing compound. It's not worth it to take it to a shop and do a lot of work for this. It's pretty minor and you won't notice it all that much. I've...

It's 5w-20 oil and it is just fine. You are not going to do any damage...give it a spin and see if you like it.