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Is this the same car you posted for sale in February 2021 & November 2022? https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/2017-valencia-red-nsx-for-sale.215660/ https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/2017-nsx-valencia-red-orchid-7k-miles-showroom.218545/

Don't tell Chromatose: https://web.archive.org/web/20040221210804/http://www.northwest.nsxca.org/mikesc.html https://web.archive.org/web/20040508200354/http://www.northwest.nsxca.org/mikebr.html https://web.archive.org/web/20040508200426/http://www.northwest.nsxca.org/mikeps.html

While my car is a 1991 I explicitly selected a later year (1997+) when looking up the part in an online catalog, to be sure I got the updated part (black not silver). It is highly ironic that I ordered four to get four parts, but received eight...and then Honcho (probably based on that info)...

Quick turnaround! Nicely done. These aluminum caps seem like an attractive option because they'd eliminate any question of durability (as noted earlier, I broke some earlier prints maybe by being too rough with them...but since installing mine have held up nicely). However, that price seems...

Yes, the adjusters come two to a pack and maybe include two of the funnel/extension things you show as being different between the upper and lower on your car...but you only install the funnel on one of them (to retain the difference you observed). No need to weld/melt that into place. Like...

I paid for that part plus expensive shipping (you used Fedex instead of EMS for initial shipping, for reasons unknown to me) but I never received an undamaged part nor a (partial or full) refund. Both times you failed to appropriately package the item, which is the reason it arrived damaged, yet...

After Mita twice poorly packaged an item and it arrived damaged and refused to do anything to make things right (so I’m out hundreds of dollars) I refuse to do any more business with them. A lot of what you can get from them (OEM Honda parts) you can get cheaper from Amayama, who does a better...

No drilling. Yikes! I said 100% reversible, which drilling would not be. You just remove the bolts holding front of seat rails to the floor, put the bolt through the eyelets on ends of the belts, and reinsert the bolts. Here is a photo I took during removal, showing where they attach. (Bolt is...

This harness bar is a 100% reversible mod. The six attachment points for the bar are factory bolt locations (4 lower rear bolts that hold seat rails to the floor, 2 upper pivot points for the seat belt). The front anti-submarine straps use mounting points for front of seat rails. When installed...

tturkstra I appreciate the dialog, didn't perceive any of it as confrontational (hope you did not either). Even though my lights are long-ago done (and my friend's lights are also done as of this past Saturday), as a part of the NSX community for 24 years I love to see the cars well cared for...

Not sure where the "tabs without supports" comes from (I didn't suggest anything like that) so I'm not responding to that. I understand the tab failure is a layer adhesion failure, but if the layer had more surface area (because it was thicker there), it might be less likely to fail. Like I...

One more note. The nylon washers on the screws that hold the headlight covers on, they were brittle on the NSX I worked on today (broke some). Friend working on the car with me went out and found perfect replacements at Lowe’s which we used to replace all eight.

Any chance your modifications to Russ's version includes making them thicker where the tabs that engage the headlight housing are? I'm thinking a 0.5cm (tall) x 1.5cm (wide) bump, with sloped edges so printing does not require supports, on the inside - just behind those three engagement tabs. Or...

Uuh, without measuring can you tell me if either of your ventless caps are the same depth as Russ's single/only ventless cap? I'm about to print some caps for a friend doing the same upgrade and figured I'd try/use your revised design. Want the same size.

Fan speed?!?! Stop trying to outsmart the climate control. Just pick the temp you want and let it do it’s thing.

Assembled the headlights with new adjusters, LED bulbs, and the ventless dust caps…adjusted…and took for a drive. Wow! These LED bulbs make a huge difference, light up the road like a car built this decade instead of 30 years ago. And the headlights adjust like butter. Thanks again, Russ, for...

After a 72-day wait, the adjusters are in! There are two changes, both apparent without disassembly: - The bolt has a black finish instead of galvanized (grey). - The piece of plastic that the one end of the bolt comes out of has gained a brass grommet/interface between it and the bolt...

What changed? The part number changed. lol When I receive them I'll inspect/compare and report back as to any other/actual changes. I know all four of my original adjusters have the normal defect (bolt spins with the nut). That made it a real pain to adjust the headlights perfectly years ago...

Material is ABS from IC3D. Printer is a Lulzbot Mini. The first couple were printed with defaults for that material in the Lulzbot version of Cura (slicing/printing application) because I generally trust defaults established by knowledgeable/experienced people. The first one eventually failed...

The cap is perfect! Thanks Russ for the design and cmarsh90 for use of your 3D printer! Now just need to print three more of them and wait for my improved (1997-2001) headlight adjusters (33129-SL0-N11) to arrive.

Thanks, Russ! Started the print. Should be ready when I'm home from Thanksgiving Dinner at the in-laws. Tip for folks printing these is to flip them 180 upside down. This will require a lot less support to be added by the slicing software, making for shorter printing times and less material use.

If not too much effort, that would be extra cool. I was going to remove the rear vent from design (flat end makes it doable, but will still probably take hours for a newbie like me) and then leave the side vents (too hard with the curved sides, plus supports from 3D printing should block them if...

I plan to have the VLEDS plug inside the cap sideways like this as I don't think there is room to have this bulky plug next to the bulb's heatsink/fan, nor stuff it into the housing like I think you did. So it needs to be as deep as measured below (about 63mm). I think formula is to subtract...

I was trying to find a way to do all this with the headlight assembly in the car, as I wanted to avoid the effort some made it seem to be (removing wheel liner and such). I today noticed just how simple it is to remove: Pop headlights up, loosen painted plastic cover (four screws, two covered by...

This got me excited. Not only would this validate that it is OK for these cavities to not be sealed, but also that cutout would allow a place for wires to run if I wanted the plug to be outside of the cap. So I printed up a 50.5mm cap...and then upon attempt to assemble learned... The cutout...