I remember only that the last one is C913 and is the one located farthest to the front
of the car. I'll supply the relative locations of the other three in a subsequent post.
- A commonly available crimp-on connector that works with these Option Connectors (which
are similar to 1/4" male quick-disconnect terminals) is found in Radio Shack 64-3049
($1.49) which includes two each of both male and female in both 22-18 and 16-14 gauge wire
sizes.
- It's easier to see and access the Option Connectors if you remove the upholstery panel
that runs beneath the steering column, and contains one of the interior lights. This panel
removes easily by removing a phillips-head screw at each end. You can leave the interior
light connected because there is enough wire on it to let the panel fall to one side.
- Many temporary accessories like radar detectors and radios are designed to be powered by
a "CLA" (Cigarette Lighter Adapter) which is intended to be plugged into the
socket of the Cigarette lighter. My objections to this arrangement include that these are
a) bulky and b) unreliable, and c) there is only one socket in the car so if you have more
than one device you're left to do something even more unreliable and bulky. According to a
(so far) unverified source from a Usenet news group I follow, the American Radio Relay
League (ARRL) is supporting a standardized connector for 12V devices. The purpose of this
is to provide easy interchangability between various equipment in disaster situations,
etc.
The connector they have specified is a 2-pin molded nylon connector (the common name is
"Molex") These are available at Radio Shack under PN 274-222. Both halves are
insulated, the connectors have "ears" to allow chassis mount if desired, and
they are rated at 8 amps.
Recommended configuration is to use the smaller (inner) connector on the power _source_
with female pins. The outer connector goes on the power user (detector, radio, etc) and
should be assembled with male pins. Positive is the "pointy" end of the
connector. I recommend soldering the pins for best connection.
I'm going to wire into my cars a small plastic box (like Radio Shack 270-220) located in a
discrete but accesible place with 3 or 4 of these connectors pre-wired to C913, and then
convert all of my CLA-equipped accessories to use this scheme. That way I'll have an easy
and reliable way to plug in temporary accessories and not have to fiddle with the
cigarette lighter each time. My plan is to simply cut off the CLA from each device and
replace that cut with a male and female connector appropriate wired. That way I can use
the accessory in a cigarette lighter *or* in my ARRL-standard-wired cars.
12 Volts DC Source On Firewall
[MBA - 2000/7/24] A safe, and common source, is the black with yellow tracer
that goes to all or most of the small control units behind the seats. Its good
for 1 or 2 amps without a fuse change, which is enough for most if not all
electronics. (fog lights and amps not included) Do not use the 20 g (.8mm) b/y
that goes to the main ECU, rather the 18 or 16 (.75 or 1. mm) g.
Firewall Wire Passthrough
[AW] Richard Relph asked a while back about a good place to pass a wire (in his case
the coaxial antenna cable for his non-factory cell-phone) from the engine compartment to
the passenger compartment.
Alex Vizcarra reminded us privately that you can punch a small hole throught the
grommet through which the main harness passes just in front of the air cleaner on the left
side of the engine compartment. Access to the passenger compartment side of that grommet
requires removing the left-side lower trim panel (the curved one below where the shoulder
belt passes through.
I happened to have my interior apart today and I think I found an even better spot.
It's on the right (passenger) side of the car and here's how to find it. Just forward of
the alternator is a large bracket running at about a 45 degree angle to vertical, at the
top of which is attached a cast aluminum and heavily finned "box" about 2"
square. Forward of and below that bracket is a plastic plug which removes easily and
exposes a ~1" hole through which one could pass all kinds of interesting cables. This
hole leads to the interior right behind the right-side lower trim panel.
There are a couple advantages to using this hole rather than the harness grommet Alex
mentions:
- It's easier to remove the right-side trim panel, since you don't have to mess with the
engine cover release lever.
- You can drill whatever hole or opening in the plastic plug and seal it all up with
silicone rubber, etc., without having to go anywhere near any pre-existing wiring
harnesses. Or you can replace it with a store-bought rubber gromeet suitable for whatever
cable your routing.
- I believe that it's (much easier to get to from the engine-compartment side than the
corresponding area on the left side of the car, since there isn't nearly as much
paraphernalia in the area..
