1991-1996 NSX Keys
The NSX "Titanium" Key - Exposed!

Despite what
your Acura salesman may have told you, the NSX key is not titanium, platinum,
unobtainium,
or any other bizarre metal.
It is made of Monel, a nickel alloy composed of about 70% Nickel and 30% Copper. This alloy is used in many marine applications and is
highly resistant to saltwater corrosion (as in sweat.)
The (nickel) "Titanium" key part number is 35113-SL0-A11. Somewhat difficult
to machine, it's a "sticky" alloy. Machining properties are like some
of the more unpleasant (not free-machining) varieties of stainless
steel. It grinds OK. It is not hardenable. It requires a cutting machine that will copy
an original key; the stamping machine that goes off the key code will not do it. They are
not cheap. Suggested retail is over $100. Regular key blanks work fine too.
[MCA - 99/4/8] The standard key (metal with black plastic w/ red NSX letters) is part #
35113-SL0-A01 and sells for about $11 (includes cutting).

[WMO - 2001/10/10] The exact ILCO key blank for the early NSX is a HD99-P,
with a black plastic head. Acura keys can be cut to factory specifications by
any locksmith with a computer controlled cutter, just by using the 4-digit code
stamped into the surface of the key about 1/4" below the plastic head. Be
advised that the ignition lock may be worn somewhat, making the cutting very
critical. The person operating the cutter must turn the blank over to do the
second side, and it is very easy to get the key slightly misaligned for the
second cut. The problem may be the fact that aligning the key for the second cut
depends on using the side first cut, and this is now hardly a long, straight
surface. Out of 2 keys I had made, the first key had to run through again to
turn out perfect on both sides, and the second still only had one good side
after two passes through the cutter. I am now trying to get perfect copies of
the one good key, without going the factory code route. My criticality probably
results from having a very worn factory key, possibly indicating a somewhat worn
ignition lock. I had initially tried getting a key cut from my worn old key, but
that key did not work in all the locks or positions, and it was made on an
automatic two-side cutter. If nothing else, I suspect that the key is rounded
off in the horizontal plane from being turned so many times, while the new key
has very sharp edges.
