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Stripped wheel lug

KGP

Legendary Member
Joined
31 October 2001
Messages
3,583
Location
St. Louis, MO
Stripped wheel lug nut

Seems I have a stripped wheel lug nut, and can't get it off. :eek: Have any mojo magic solutions?
 
Last edited:
DanO said:
Front or rear?

Take off all other lug nuts and spin the stripped nut counter-clockwise as you pull the wheel off (may require two people).

It's a front. Thanks for the info, but I think I am missing something in the translation. What do you mean "spin the stripped nut counter-clockwise as you pull the wheel". Sound like you are telling me to take the lug off in a normal fashion, exept to pill on the wheel somehow. I don't see how this helps.

Ahh, maybe it was an error on my part? I am talking about a stripped lug NUT.
 
The problem (obviously) is trying to get access to just the nut with the wheel still on, w/o damaging your wheel in the process.
I had similar problem on mine when I bought the car - exacerbated by the fact some idiot had tried taking a chisel to the nut removing any possibility of any means of getting it off.
I ended up having to drill out the stud - Good chance it might be damaged anyway, if the lug was stripped.
I started with about a 1/8" drill centered on the end of the stud & increased the size incrementally up to 1/2" - estimate the depth you need to drill to by using one of your other lug nuts & put a stop or just a piece of tape on the drill to guide you. Ultimately the nut will just fall off.
Then of course you have to replace the stud. If on the front, follow Dano's instructions referenced above. If it's on the rear it a real pain to remove the hub unless you have an air impact wrench, then have to re-torque it to something like 260 (too lazy to get exact # - look it up!)
However - I actually managed to knock out the old one with hub in place (that part is easy because one coming out is short!) then managed to get the hub to an orientation where I could get the new one in. With a std. stud it is still a tight squeeze but possible - if you have extended studs, forget it, need to remove the hub. Because of this method of installation, you may want to run a die over the threads after it is in place to be sure thread is clean before installing a new lug.
Did the whole thing in a couple of hours for less than $10 for stud & lug.
 
KGP,

Yes, you have it correct. DanO is suggesting you use the wheel to "pull" the nut off as it is turning in the direction of loosening. Seems to make sense to me too. I think maybe two helpers on each side of the wheel as you try to air gun it off!

Obviously, D'Ecosse's method will also work. Does your car have the standard closed end lug nuts? That wil make the drill out method a little tougher, but it will still work.

This is why they make "Torque Limiting Extensions" :)

HTH,
LarryB
 
Larry Bastanza said:

Yes, you have it correct. DanO is suggesting you use the wheel to "pull" the nut off as it is turning in the direction of loosening. Seems to make sense to me too. I think maybe two helpers on each side of the wheel as you try to air gun it off!

Obviously, D'Ecosse's method will also work. Does your car have the standard closed end lug nuts? That wil make the drill out method a little tougher, but it will still work.

This is why they make "Torque Limiting Extensions" :)
There is not enough for the socket to grab. So, it looks like time to drill. :(
Lug nuts are closed-end type that come with SSR wheels. Yes, it seems that the shop who put on tires just prior to my purchase ignored the 80# torque setting. :mad:
 
They make a special socket-like tool just for this purpose. They are called "lug nut removers" and come in various flavors, but you can typically tighten them on over top of the stripped nut and then use an impact wrench or breaker bar. You may have to ask around because they are often not sitting up front in most retail auto parts stores since they can obviously also be used to remove wheel lock nuts. You'll want to look before you buy because they will not necessarily work well with all wheel setups, or you may need an extension to clear the wheel, etc. They are very handy to have around. A full kit of various sizes looks something like this though you obviously only need one size for this specific task:

71240.jpg


Sometimes you can also use a big hammer to bang a deep impact wrench socket that is 1 size to small onto the lug nut. Then you usually have a pretty good grip on it. The socket may be trashed in the process, but don't use too cheap a socket or it will just split at the seams.
 
Oh,

I did not realize the OUTER hex of the lug was rounded off. Now that sucks. Good luck with the drill (s)

LarryB
 
I guess I don’t understand. There are lots of things that could mean “stripped lug nut”:

a) the nut threads are stripped
b) the stud threads are stripped
c) both a and b
d) the stud has stripped in the hub
e) the outside of the hex nut is stripped or mangled so a wrench slips or won’t fit

Which are you referring to?

If it’s a, b or c or even d, then spinning it off with pressure pulling it off may do the trick. If it’s d then you may be able to get some channel locks on the stud head on the outside of the hub. If it’s e then drilling it out may be the only way.

DanO
 
DanO said:
I guess I don’t understand. There are lots of things that could mean “stripped lug nut”:

a) the nut threads are stripped
b) the stud threads are stripped
c) both a and b
d) the stud has stripped in the hub
e) the outside of the hex nut is stripped or mangled so a wrench slips or won’t fit

Which are you referring to?

I was referring to "e." I ran out and tried one of Lud's suggestions, but unfortunatly it didn't work. I'll check on the "lug nut remover." Maybe a shop around here has one and can do it for me. If not...it's drill time. :mad:
 
A few random tips on the "bang a socket on" method...

Use a 12 point socket

If the lug nuts are metric, try a standard size that's just too small and vice versa

You will need to have the socket positioned just right.

Und use a BIG hammer, like a 3 lb mini-sledge hammer. A standard claw hammer you would use to drive nails will probably not be enough.

You need to hit the socket quite hard with the hammer. You are bending the metal after all!

Even under the best circumstances it usually takes a few attempts.

This is obviously a last resort technique. I would recommend the lug nut remover tool if at all possible. They have nice self-threading splines that grab right on to stripped lug nuts and are usually pretty easy to use. Good luck!
 
Hi KGB,

Since the sound waves from your exhaust didn't loosen them (inside joke) then perhaps it is time to steel a play from an auto theif (pun intended).

Basically many auto theves spot weld a nut over the top of a keyed nut and then remove them both together. You loose both nuts but that might be an inexpensive way out / I would imagine the same would work for you.

good luck...
 
matteni said:

Since the sound waves from your exhaust didn't loosen them ...
Viola, that's it! It is because I am north of the equator, and the sound waves have been reacting in a clockwise fahion on my lug nuts. A quick drive south to Brazil should do the trick.
 
Would never have guessed there would be such a thing but jumping on Lud's suggestion (now that we understand it's the o/s of the lug that's rounded) with help from friend Google ....
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/emlugnutrem.html
http://www.autopart.com/Specials.htm
http://www.ctatools.com/newtool.html
http://www.brocksupply.com/html/products/Tools.htm

Depending on how desperate you are to get the wheel off, I would try one of these first, since you don't actually want to damage the stud if you can help it - in my method it becomes sacrificial unfortunately.

p.s. Just found this one - looks like a good kit http://www.xtraktortools.com/index1_product_info.HTM
 
Lud said:
A few random tips on the "bang a socket on" method...

Use a 12 point socket

If the lug nuts are metric, try a standard size that's just too small and vice versa

You will need to have the socket positioned just right.

Und use a BIG hammer, like a 3 lb mini-sledge hammer. A standard claw hammer you would use to drive nails will probably not be enough.

It worked! Thanks Lud! Used a 12 point 5/8 on a 17mm lug, used a three # sledge...and presto! Didn't even ruin the socket. :) :) :)
 
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