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Clay: What and How

Joined
18 June 2003
Messages
148
Location
Denver, CO
First, what is clay?
Clay is a malleable, clay-like substance that was originally used to by automotive paint shops to remove the overspray and surface contaminants. It comes in many colors and textures and is generally sold in 4-6 oz sizes.

What is its use?
Well, now we use it in much the same way it was originally intended although its scope of usefulness has expanded. What was once strictly a paint shop tool is now easily accessible to the detailing hobbyist. As consumers experiment with the clay, new uses keep arising. Here is a short list.
1. Removing paint overspray
2. Removing embedded particles from the paint surface
3. Removing mineral deposits from dried water
4. Removing minor etching from bird poo
5. Removing minor adhesive residue
6. Glass cleaning

What kind of particles can get embedded in the paint?
Typically, your car’s finish picks up all types of environmental fallout and contaminants. For new cars, it is rail dust from the long trip to your local dealer. Rail dust is a result of the metal on metal action of the train’s wheel on the track. Most common for road cars would range from metal particles from your brakes, insect impact and water spots. All forms compromise the integrity of your top coat which could leave other layers vulnerable to rust or other damage.

What are the benefits of claying?
Clay pulls the contaminants from the surface of your paint. The result will be a smooth-as-glass finish and better light reflection off your vehicles surface. Imagine looking at your reflection in a dusty mirror. You can see yourself, but you are a bit fuzzy. Clean the mirror and the reflection vastly improves. It works the same way with your paint.

By claying, you will also be “cleansing” the deeper surface of your paint. You will pull the metal shavings, industrial fallout and other contaminants from your finish. The indentations of the particles will still be there, because you are not polishing them down, you are pulling them out. A good synthetic or carnauba wax will fill and seal the imperfections from the elements leaving you with a protected and smooth surface.

How do I know if I need to clay?
Run your fingertips gently across the paint surface. Do you feel tiny bumps or roughness? If yes, you may want to clay. If your car is new from the dealer, this is the best time to clay. Although somewhat covered in transport, the surface of your new car will have picked up ocean salts from the boat ride and rail dust from the train ride to your dealer.

How do I clay?
There are two parts to a clay process; the clay and the lubricant. The clay often comes in a 4-6 oz rectangle. It is a good idea to cut it into three parts. If you drop your piece of clay, throw it out. It is pretty sticky and you don’t want to drag what it picked up across your paint.

Claying is a pretty easy process. Of course, you start with a clean car. After that, you simply spray a 2”x2” area with the lubricant and run the clay over the surface. It should glide nicely. I like to go in a back and forth motion. For really rough surfaces I repeat with a side to side. Be sure to use enough lubricant. If you don’t, the clay will grab and scuff your paint. In most cases, you will only need to re-clay that area, but if you really scuffed it, you might need to polish. The lubricant is a bit of a balance. Use too much and the clay is less effective. Use too little and you scuff the paint. As your clay becomes dirty, pull, stretch then fold it to a clean side.

After you have clayed a section, wipe it down with a MF cloth. Run your fingers over that section. Does it feel smooth? Are the tiny bumps gone? If no, hit it again with the clay.

What clay won’t do.
1. It won’t fix swirls, scratches or spider webbing
2. If properly used, it won’t scratch
3. It won’t polish
4. It won’t abrade the surface

So there you have the basics of clay. I hope this helps, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask away.
 
Thank you so much for your time and help. You are truly a big asset to the detailing forum.
 
>>If your car is new from the dealer, this is the best time to clay.

I'm not sure about this. I've read you should let new paint cure at least 30 days before polishing or waxing it - doesn't this apply to clay too?

Where is this write-up from?
 
Soichiro said:
>>If your car is new from the dealer, this is the best time to clay.

I'm not sure about this. I've read you should let new paint cure at least 30 days before polishing or waxing it - doesn't this apply to clay too?

Where is this write-up from?

I would think new cars have been sitting more than 30 days after paint has been applied, both with the build completion and the transport time.
 
Soichiro said:
>>If your car is new from the dealer, this is the best time to clay.

I'm not sure about this. I've read you should let new paint cure at least 30 days before polishing or waxing it - doesn't this apply to clay too?

Where is this write-up from?
Manufacturers cure the paint at a much higher temp than body shops can. Also, by the time the car reaches you, the paint is completely dried and cured. So really, the only time you need to wait on wax is after a respray.

As for the write-up, I was working on the FAQs for my site and put this together so I could post it here.


ak-Clay is so lightly abrasive that it doesn't do a good job of pulling off wax. You may be able to remove some. You may even be able to pull off some acrylic, but the results won't be very consistent. For wax, you are better off using Dawn dishwashing detergent.

As for purchase, you may be able to find some at your local auto parts store in the wax section. I carry a line on my site that I really like. It is nice and sticky, so it doesn't slip out of your hand as you work. The lubricant can get pretty slippery.
DP Clay Set
 
ak said:
Does clay remove old wax also? Where's a good place to purchase clay?
Why not purchase from the person who did the write-up and is an NSX Prime sponsor? Nick at Detailers Paradise can fix you up.
 
DetailersParadise said:



ak-Clay is so lightly abrasive that it doesn't do a good job of pulling off wax. You may be able to remove some. You may even be able to pull off some acrylic, but the results won't be very consistent. For wax, you are better off using Dawn dishwashing detergent.

As for purchase, you may be able to find some at your local auto parts store in the wax section. I carry a line on my site that I really like. It is nice and sticky, so it doesn't slip out of your hand as you work. The lubricant can get pretty slippery.
DP Clay Set

Thanks for the info. I have used Dawn before but it did not remove the wax completely. Do I need to wash with dawn several times for complete removal?
 
I've heard there are different types of clay and some are actually synthetic. Is this true? If so do they have different applications or is one type better than the other?
 
xsn said:
I've heard there are different types of clay and some are actually synthetic. Is this true? If so do they have different applications or is one type better than the other?
Do a search using the words "clay appear identical." Yes, detailing clay is man-made.

Nick, not long ago you mentioned that the "wax" producers community is tight knit. Any comment as to how many actual manufactures there are for synthetic clay? I would be willing to bet there are no more than a few.
 
There are really about one. I would say they do about 98% of the manufacturing in the U.S.

They have a basic formula-which I carry-then they tweak it for other companies who brand the product. I intend to do the same with the packaging, but the product will not change a bit.

I apologize, but I can't remember the name of the company that does the manufacturing, but they will add color and change the composition per the customer's request. That's how you end up with blue, yellow and pink clay. It is also why some clay feels really hard and other clays are softer. Basically each company is looking to market a unique product.

So I guess that clay is the same, but different.
 
Detailing clays are not all the same, and they are not all made by the same company.

Larry Emmons (owner of Emmons Coachworks and one of the leading detailers in the country) recommends Clay Magic; he says that it acts as an adhesive in removing contaminants, whereas most clay products act as an abrasive. Clay Magic has several six patents on its formula, which other brands cannot use.

Also, several brands of detailing clay offer different grades of clay, with different levels of aggressiveness, for different applications. However, not all are widely available on the consumer market.
 
nsxtasy said:


Also, several brands of detailing clay offer different grades of clay, with different levels of aggressiveness, for different applications. However, not all are widely available on the consumer market.
That does not mean they are actually manufactured by different companies. Each company who has a detail clay "label" may simply have their own formula that is used by the actual manufacture.

Not that it's a big deal, but I still maintain that the majority of clay comes from less than 3 manufactures, most likely closer to one. My guess would be someone like 3M. It gets down to core competance for the company.
 
Concerns about claying.

You mention that "As your clay becomes dirty, pull, stretch then fold it to a clean side" It would seem to me that the sharp points would poke through the caly and scratch the paint. How well does the clay encapsulate the particles especially the metal fragments? How many times can you stretch and fold before throwing the clay away? Someone told me they think clay removed their clearcoat - is the minor abrasive enough to do this? How often would your recommend claying a car?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Most consumer clay is about as non-abrasive has you can get while still rubbing something across your finish. Clay is not abrasive enought to remove clear. Good clay relies on stick, not scrub.

The particles that the clay is picking up are very small. In theory, you could pull the particle from the paint then rub them across, but it doesn't seem to work out like that.

If you clay once a year, then you can expect one 2oz piece of clay to do 3-5 cars. I bought my car used and it had never been clayed or polished. I threw out the clay when I was done. Basically, you can continue to use the clay as long as when you pull and stretch, you car still exposing a clean side.

As for frequency, I check my paint often and feel for rough spots. The areas behind the wheels tend to need more attention, but generally, I clay every eight months or so on a daily driver. Much of it depends on your driving environment and vehicle use.
 
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