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A Report For All Weight Watchers

Joined
4 September 2000
Messages
213
Rather than do engine mods, I have opted to take what I call the "Lotus Route" -- improve the performance of my '01 Coupe by improving the power to wieight ratio. After dry cell battery, Taitec Lightweight exhaust, spare and tool removal and the use of Sparco Rev seats, I took the car to a local scale for weigh in. The verdict: 2820 pounds. I had about an 1/8 of a tank of fuel at the time. As I mentioned in my previous post, I tried to go without cats, but my OBD objected. Dangit -- that was another twenty pounds. I also took about thirty pounds off of my gut (I'm now at 180) but I weighed the car without me in it.

I have added some weight, although I don't know exactly how much, in my wheel and tire package -- Advan Model 7s, 215/35/17 (f) and 285/30/18 (r) (SO3). I kept the factory tires and wheels, so I might put them back on and weigh it again, just to see.

By the way, and as expected, I have noticed a marked improvement in performance (throttle response and braking, primarily) since I got the lead out. Now, if there was just some way to lose another two hundred pounds (off the car, I mean).
 
I am going the exact same route. It is good to

see that you were able to reduce the weight to this extent. I have removed the same things that you have except that my Taitec should be here in a few days. I keep thinking whether I should remove the engine cover (15 lbs) or not. Being in Houston I have to have the A/C and the 15 lbs that the sound system adds is worth it.

My SupraTT weighed a hefty 3450 lbs and with 320 hp it had a wt/power ratio of about 10.78.
Without the Taitecs on my wt/hp ratio is 10.60 and with the Taitecs replacing the oem heavy exhaust the ratio should further drop to about 10.48.

And you are right, the difference in handling and accerleration is clearly felt.:D
 
Reducing weight will increase acceleration and is a worthwhile objective.

To keep track of your weight reduction, you need to do an "apples to apples" comparison.

DeHaldaswerth said:
improve the performance of my '01 Coupe by improving the power to wieight ratio. After dry cell battery, Taitec Lightweight exhaust, spare and tool removal and the use of Sparco Rev seats, I took the car to a local scale for weigh in. The verdict: 2820 pounds. I had about an 1/8 of a tank of fuel at the time.
The curb weight of a bone stock 2001 Coupe is 3069 pounds. Curb weight includes full fluids, and the gasoline in a full tank weighs around 112 pounds. So your car, when it was bone stock, would weigh 2971 pounds with only 1/8 tank of fuel. Calculate your savings from there if you're weighing it with 1/8 tank.
 
In 2001 I thought the only models imported were the NSX-T's. If this is true your weight started at 3164 not 3069. I had a 2000 and was very interested in weight reduction. I would suggest that the Volk TE-37's in stock sizes of 16 and 17 would give you some nice reductions in weight. And the fact that the weight is unsprung equates to a real reduction that exceeds the nominal reduction.
 
wildrice said:
In 2001 I thought the only models imported were the NSX-T's.
This is not true. The fixed-roof coupe was available 1996-2001 and its availability in North America wasn't discontinued until the 2002 model year.
 
gheba_nsx said:
What is the lightest a NSX has been known to go down?
I don't know how much it weighs, but probably this one:

04107248_2x.jpg


:D
 
:D :D :rolleyes:

Is it true that for every 10lbs you shed it's like theoretically gaining 1hp? I read that somewhere but can't recall where.


ravi
 
STOCKTONSX said:
Is it true that for every 10lbs you shed it's like theoretically gaining 1hp?
It depends on the particular car, and (obviously) you can't extrapolate forever. But for the NSX, that's roughly correct; Bob Butler's figures show that you get somewhat better acceleration by adding 15 hp to a stock '91 than you do by reducing weight by 100 pounds.

Originally posted by ChopsJazz
There you go again Ken. You plainly said "apples to apples", and this car clearly has no gas at all.
:D
 
Great thread...I'm also interested to know how light some people have been able to go. I've noticed the SoS NSX weighing in the high 2700 range, but am not sure if it has retained A/C? Would mid 2700s even be possible without sacrificing a lot more or going with very exotic solutions? :)
 
My cars track weight is 2725. I take out the passenger seat, floor/trunk mats, tools, engine cover, run a 1/4 tank of gas, ultralight racing harts, flowmaster muffler (saved me over 20lbs!) and a few other things I can't really think of.

I plan on buying the ultralight race hatch, carbon fiber hood, ultralight battery, and the lightweight plexi-glass that seperates engine from the cockpit.
 
Brian2by2 said:
My cars track weight is 2725.
Your car's curb weight (which includes a full tank of gas) is over 2800, Brian.

Heck, I can easily the "track weight" of a bone stock '91 NSX down around 2900 pounds, just by letting the gas tank get down close to empty... :rolleyes:

Steve, if you're interested in more information about weight reduction, you might want to check out the corresponding section of the FAQ (under the Performance heading) as well as searching these forums. It's already been discussed a lot in the past...
 
nsxtasy said:
Your car's curb weight (which includes a full tank of gas) is over 2800, Brian.

Heck, I can easily the "track weight" of a bone stock '91 NSX down around 2900 pounds, just by letting the gas tank get down close to empty... :rolleyes:

Steve, if you're interested in more information about weight reduction, you might want to check out the corresponding section of the FAQ (under the Performance heading) as well as searching these forums. It's already been discussed a lot in the past...

Steve, ignore ken...hes just bitter ;)

Track weight is 1/4 a tank of gas for me. Enough so that in corners, the fuel doesn't shift and make the car think its "empty" by fuel deprivation.

Thats a saving of 80lbs or so...where's the extra 70lbs come from to get car down to 2900lbs with just losing gas?

I think 2725 (w/o a driver) is pretty impressive even if the tank is EMPTY.

The car is very streetable, except the missing passenger seat (add 40lbs). A/C and all.
 
Thanks for the ongoing information guys. I've actually searched in the past, but probably didn't use exhaustive enough criteria. I am definitely assuming that the first 100-125 pounds is attainable via fairly conventional standards but, like many cars, going beyond that requires exotic (expensive!) lightweight materials or the loss of creature comforts.

I currently own a fairly aggressively weight reduced Supra, but am probably still in the low 3200 pound weight region. Having owned such a decontented car for over 2 years makes me look more favorably with regard to creature comforts and weight reduction...and my next car (almost certainly an NSX) will not be aggressively "weight stripped" like my current car. However, the NSX has a very nice starting point compared to my cars 3400+ pound curb weight. :)

Steve T.
 
Brian2by2 said:
Track weight is 1/4 a tank of gas for me. Enough so that in corners, the fuel doesn't shift and make the car think its "empty" by fuel deprivation.

Thats a saving of 80lbs or so...where's the extra 70lbs come from to get car down to 2900lbs with just losing gas?
I think you have a problem with your math. The curb weight of a 1991 five-speed NSX is 3010 pounds, including a full tank (112 pounds) of gasoline. If you have a quarter of a tank of gas, then the car weighs 2926 pounds. Most people would NOT consider that to represent 84 pounds of weight reduction. I'm surprised you keep bragging about it as such by claiming that you got your car down to X pounds when so much of your alleged "reduction" comes from less gas in the tank.

As for the other items that comprise the rest of your weight reduction, sure, they reduce the weight. But I'm not sure many of us will drive our cars around without things in it like a passenger seat, particularly on a real track (not a dragstrip). Or a spare tire, which you have already discovered the consequences of removing.

And no, I'm not bitter. If I wanted to drive around without things like a spare tire, I would. But I don't. I wouldn't want to get stranded and have to wait two hours for a tow truck... like you did. ;) Heck, if anyone is bitter around here, you are. Heck, you even said so, here. And here. And... :rolleyes: Like POWERED by HONDA said in the latter topic, "You sure vent often." Don't ascribe your bitterness to me. I'm happy. :D
 
Replace the rear hatch with the SOS Race Hatch... Like someone else mentioned the engine cover. That brake upgrade with rotors that were only a few mm thick was incredible. If indeed that works and is reliable, the savings in unsprung weight is unmatched! The Tein Coilover setup is good as well.

But I would most certainly get the lightest flywheel possible. That really helps get the sluggishness out of the car's feel.

Drivetrain weight reduction should be #1 priority, then anything else rotating... wheels/brakes, then anything that's unsprung, after that try to replace the stuff that isn't already aluminum. That'll give you the best weight savings/$, after that do the SoS thing and just make all the body panels out of CF.
 
Anyone recall how light people have been able to go? In other words, are there people in the low 2700 pound range or high 2600 perhaps? Lower than that? Just curious how low people have actually been able to go. :)

Steve T.
 
Hey Gary (ncdogdoc), you've gutted your race car, haven't you? Removed all the interior niceties and such? What does yours weigh? (Note that this process typically has a very nice net weight reduction, even though the material removed is partially offset by adding the weight of a roll bar or cage.)
 
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