Probably the best prepared open track car I've ever seen. The torque this car is phenominal. One of the quickest track cars I've shared the track with.
I've no interest in the sale - 'cept to say I hope it goes to a good owner.
http://www.cableone.net/jkhood/toyota_supra_for_sale.htm
For Sale 37,000 OBO
1997 Toyota Supra Single turbo 540 RWHP in Road racing trim. 624 RWHP peek.
weight 3180 pounds.
Car is currently in Road racing trim. All spares and stock parts available minus the old stock turbos and MAS. All stock interior is in great shape.
Mileage approx. 15,000 miles.
Car has been tracked between 4 and 6 times a year at various Drivers education events and time trials over the last three years. Never been in an accident. THIS HAS NOT BEEN A DRAG CAR! Does not burn oil and the motor is in GREAT shape. The car was in a tornado and had cosmetic damage at that time but was repaired and hood was replaced at that time with the TRD vented hood. Oil changed after every other event. Spark plugs changed after every other event. The car aligns perfect. This car has been a TOY for the last several years and I want to move up to a full Race car and can't bare to cut this car up to build one. If taken the time to put this car back to full street trim with A/C it would be worth over 50K with the low miles I have on the chassis and engine. This engine is very strong and some say bullet proof.
Car can be returned to street car trim by putting the stock seats back in, just a bolt in affair and replacement of the A/C system and dash components which I have most of. I hope who ever buys this car wants it as a track car as that is what this car does best.
The trend these days anyway is to build street cars like race cars with the minimal amount weight and interior so this would be a great start for someone to build a monster street rod. Even if you found a low mileage car for under 25K it would cost you 25K more to get to this point yourself and I have all the weight, cooling and suspension worked out. Add it up and you will see. This car is FAST! I do drive this car to work occasionaly to keep the battery charged and the car in good shape. This is my baby!
I will be happy to answer any questions via E-mail. [email protected]
Spares
Two sets of Forgeline wheels 17s and 18s
Three sets of Sway bars
Several sets of brake rotors front and rear.
Extra springs for the waist gate to change base boost settings if desired.
All stock parts minus the stock turbos and MAF.
Modification List
Suspension
Ground Control coil over system 950# springs front
550# springs rear
Corner weighted by Planet 911.
Forgeline wheels Street 17 X9.5 265/40 17 Yokahama AVS intermediates front. 40mm offset
17 X 11 315/35 17 Yokahama AVS intermediates rear. 50mm offset
Road Racing 18 X 9.5 10 by 25 by 18 inch goodyear racing slicks front. 40mm offset
18 X 11 12 by 25.5 by 18 inch Goodyear racing slicks rear. 50mmoffset
TRD hard rubber bushings. I have these installed and they are great! The front tires maintain their contact patch better and the tire temps and wear were much much better. I also noticed a drop in my lap times here at Hallett. The ride did not seem that much harsher at all but definatly a firmer ride. No noise from them at all.
Sway bars, three sets. Stock, TRD 23% stiffer and TRD custom 53% stiffer.
Custom brake cooling ducts. I just placed some new ones that are 3 inches in diameter and are much better than I was using before. We will see.
Cusco strut tower bar front and rear.
Body
TRD vented fiberglass hood
Rolled rear fenders for clearance
Back of Hood raised for better ventilation
removal of rubber seal under rear of hood
Safety
Custom roll bar four point cage
5 point Sparco racing harness
fire bottle bolted to cage
Interior
Sparco Evo II racing seats with custom floor mounts for better head clearance non adjustable. You would need to replace these unless you like my driving position. Stocks seats will bolt back in stock location.
Removal of stock seats front and rear.
Inline fan for cockpit ventilation routed to stock vent location.
Brakes
TRD stainless steel brake lines
upgraded brake rotors. The only ones I would use for road racing are the stock rotors or slotted. The Cross drilled crack very easily on the road course. I tried the Cryo. rotors but did not see an increase in life at all. Jeff Watson and RPS are working on a High tech upgrade for the supra brakes. Can we say Carbon fiber? Should be interesting. I have tried many brands. Stock, TRD slotted, Powerslot, Brembo cross drilled . I continue to use stock rotors on courses that are hardest on brakes because I invariably will destroy them because of heat. I have noticed however the upgraded brake rotors give a better feel and initial bite on the road course. If the Carbon brakes work out then that issue will be solved once and for all.
Motul 600 brake fluid is a must.
Hawk blue compound brake pads. I have come to love these pads and use them exclusively now. believe it or not but I like them for the street as well. They don't seem to need any heat to be effective but beware they will destroy your stock rotors quickly for general street use compared to a soft stock type pad. They also squeal as you would expect a race pad to do.
Cooling
I have been working very hard to improve the cooling capacity of my Supra with out resorting to removing the FMIC. I really like the look of it and also like the cool intake charge it gives the car. I have made a lot of changes at once to hopefully rid myself of unwanted heat once and for all.
Setrab Oil Cooler with custom fan shroud and Spal fan. Greddy Oil cooler converted to an auxiliary Coolant cooler placed in the right passenger front fender well for added cooling capacity. I plumed it from the old turbo water cooling lines. It essentially functions like a heater core but not in the dash blowing heat all over me but in the front of the car where I can get rid of the heat. I will place a valve on it so in colder weather I can bypass it.
I also placed DEI insulating wraps around all coolant hoses going under and around the header, insulated around the water pump to protect from the header, and insulated the intercooler pipe just behind the two electric fans on the fluidyne radiator.
Autometer coolant temperature gauge.
I will let you know how this helps with the road racing with the front mount intercooler. Before the fan on the oil cooler and the extra radiator I would run normal water temps according to my Toyota gauge but would loose coolant to the overflow almost every run group and would have to replace fluid by the end of the day even with my 21# cap. Oil temps would climb to 270 deg. F. on a hard run even in cooler weather and I am only running 15 psi. and before the setrab oil cooler switch I would even hit 290 deg F. Now with the fan I expect a drastic drop in temps.
Update!
I have solved my cooling problems with the above. With 95 deg. ambient temps. my oil temps are maintaned less than 120 deg C.( 248 F). My water temps were also very stable and I lost NO coolant and did not have to add any all weekend. Coolant temps acording to my Autometer gauge read 190 deg. F at idle after warm up. The max temp I saw at the track was 198 deg F. The car was driven hard for the entire 15 min. session and no sign of overheating was noted. The bottom of my radiator was only warm to the touch.
Engine Performance
Dyno tuned and installed by Powerhouse Racing
PHR Stage 2 Turbo System with 1 bar spring.
PHR 3.5" Midpipe Replaced 5/1/02 with ceramic coated replacement from Powerhouse Racing.
PHR Stage 2 Fuel System Upgrade
HKS Front Mount Intercooler
Twin Blitz BOV
Blitz stiff spring
Lighter Greddy Engine Pullys minus the underdrive
HKS GCC 3
HKS VPC
New larger radiator by Fluidyne
Greddy Profec Thumb Switch
Greddy 60mm EGT P&H
EGR block off plates
Fuel Filter, Toyota
HKS FCD
TRD twin disc clutch
TRD LSD
Battery relocation with gell cell to the rear
Misc. Parts: hose, fluids, oil, filter
HKS Oil temp gague,oil pressure gague
Greddy Oil cooler I changed to a 25 row Setrab unit and saved 50 degrees. see pics Greddy oil cooler now used as an AUX water cooler in right fender well. Works great!
AC removal
Remove all under engine unessary parts
including the cruse controll, emmissions etc.
1994 ECU
NGK Racing spark plugs
I've no interest in the sale - 'cept to say I hope it goes to a good owner.
http://www.cableone.net/jkhood/toyota_supra_for_sale.htm
For Sale 37,000 OBO
1997 Toyota Supra Single turbo 540 RWHP in Road racing trim. 624 RWHP peek.
weight 3180 pounds.
Car is currently in Road racing trim. All spares and stock parts available minus the old stock turbos and MAS. All stock interior is in great shape.
Mileage approx. 15,000 miles.
Car has been tracked between 4 and 6 times a year at various Drivers education events and time trials over the last three years. Never been in an accident. THIS HAS NOT BEEN A DRAG CAR! Does not burn oil and the motor is in GREAT shape. The car was in a tornado and had cosmetic damage at that time but was repaired and hood was replaced at that time with the TRD vented hood. Oil changed after every other event. Spark plugs changed after every other event. The car aligns perfect. This car has been a TOY for the last several years and I want to move up to a full Race car and can't bare to cut this car up to build one. If taken the time to put this car back to full street trim with A/C it would be worth over 50K with the low miles I have on the chassis and engine. This engine is very strong and some say bullet proof.
Car can be returned to street car trim by putting the stock seats back in, just a bolt in affair and replacement of the A/C system and dash components which I have most of. I hope who ever buys this car wants it as a track car as that is what this car does best.
The trend these days anyway is to build street cars like race cars with the minimal amount weight and interior so this would be a great start for someone to build a monster street rod. Even if you found a low mileage car for under 25K it would cost you 25K more to get to this point yourself and I have all the weight, cooling and suspension worked out. Add it up and you will see. This car is FAST! I do drive this car to work occasionaly to keep the battery charged and the car in good shape. This is my baby!
I will be happy to answer any questions via E-mail. [email protected]
Spares
Two sets of Forgeline wheels 17s and 18s
Three sets of Sway bars
Several sets of brake rotors front and rear.
Extra springs for the waist gate to change base boost settings if desired.
All stock parts minus the stock turbos and MAF.
Modification List
Suspension
Ground Control coil over system 950# springs front
550# springs rear
Corner weighted by Planet 911.
Forgeline wheels Street 17 X9.5 265/40 17 Yokahama AVS intermediates front. 40mm offset
17 X 11 315/35 17 Yokahama AVS intermediates rear. 50mm offset
Road Racing 18 X 9.5 10 by 25 by 18 inch goodyear racing slicks front. 40mm offset
18 X 11 12 by 25.5 by 18 inch Goodyear racing slicks rear. 50mmoffset
TRD hard rubber bushings. I have these installed and they are great! The front tires maintain their contact patch better and the tire temps and wear were much much better. I also noticed a drop in my lap times here at Hallett. The ride did not seem that much harsher at all but definatly a firmer ride. No noise from them at all.
Sway bars, three sets. Stock, TRD 23% stiffer and TRD custom 53% stiffer.
Custom brake cooling ducts. I just placed some new ones that are 3 inches in diameter and are much better than I was using before. We will see.
Cusco strut tower bar front and rear.
Body
TRD vented fiberglass hood
Rolled rear fenders for clearance
Back of Hood raised for better ventilation
removal of rubber seal under rear of hood
Safety
Custom roll bar four point cage
5 point Sparco racing harness
fire bottle bolted to cage
Interior
Sparco Evo II racing seats with custom floor mounts for better head clearance non adjustable. You would need to replace these unless you like my driving position. Stocks seats will bolt back in stock location.
Removal of stock seats front and rear.
Inline fan for cockpit ventilation routed to stock vent location.
Brakes
TRD stainless steel brake lines
upgraded brake rotors. The only ones I would use for road racing are the stock rotors or slotted. The Cross drilled crack very easily on the road course. I tried the Cryo. rotors but did not see an increase in life at all. Jeff Watson and RPS are working on a High tech upgrade for the supra brakes. Can we say Carbon fiber? Should be interesting. I have tried many brands. Stock, TRD slotted, Powerslot, Brembo cross drilled . I continue to use stock rotors on courses that are hardest on brakes because I invariably will destroy them because of heat. I have noticed however the upgraded brake rotors give a better feel and initial bite on the road course. If the Carbon brakes work out then that issue will be solved once and for all.
Motul 600 brake fluid is a must.
Hawk blue compound brake pads. I have come to love these pads and use them exclusively now. believe it or not but I like them for the street as well. They don't seem to need any heat to be effective but beware they will destroy your stock rotors quickly for general street use compared to a soft stock type pad. They also squeal as you would expect a race pad to do.
Cooling
I have been working very hard to improve the cooling capacity of my Supra with out resorting to removing the FMIC. I really like the look of it and also like the cool intake charge it gives the car. I have made a lot of changes at once to hopefully rid myself of unwanted heat once and for all.
Setrab Oil Cooler with custom fan shroud and Spal fan. Greddy Oil cooler converted to an auxiliary Coolant cooler placed in the right passenger front fender well for added cooling capacity. I plumed it from the old turbo water cooling lines. It essentially functions like a heater core but not in the dash blowing heat all over me but in the front of the car where I can get rid of the heat. I will place a valve on it so in colder weather I can bypass it.
I also placed DEI insulating wraps around all coolant hoses going under and around the header, insulated around the water pump to protect from the header, and insulated the intercooler pipe just behind the two electric fans on the fluidyne radiator.
Autometer coolant temperature gauge.
I will let you know how this helps with the road racing with the front mount intercooler. Before the fan on the oil cooler and the extra radiator I would run normal water temps according to my Toyota gauge but would loose coolant to the overflow almost every run group and would have to replace fluid by the end of the day even with my 21# cap. Oil temps would climb to 270 deg. F. on a hard run even in cooler weather and I am only running 15 psi. and before the setrab oil cooler switch I would even hit 290 deg F. Now with the fan I expect a drastic drop in temps.
Update!
I have solved my cooling problems with the above. With 95 deg. ambient temps. my oil temps are maintaned less than 120 deg C.( 248 F). My water temps were also very stable and I lost NO coolant and did not have to add any all weekend. Coolant temps acording to my Autometer gauge read 190 deg. F at idle after warm up. The max temp I saw at the track was 198 deg F. The car was driven hard for the entire 15 min. session and no sign of overheating was noted. The bottom of my radiator was only warm to the touch.
Engine Performance
Dyno tuned and installed by Powerhouse Racing
PHR Stage 2 Turbo System with 1 bar spring.
PHR 3.5" Midpipe Replaced 5/1/02 with ceramic coated replacement from Powerhouse Racing.
PHR Stage 2 Fuel System Upgrade
HKS Front Mount Intercooler
Twin Blitz BOV
Blitz stiff spring
Lighter Greddy Engine Pullys minus the underdrive
HKS GCC 3
HKS VPC
New larger radiator by Fluidyne
Greddy Profec Thumb Switch
Greddy 60mm EGT P&H
EGR block off plates
Fuel Filter, Toyota
HKS FCD
TRD twin disc clutch
TRD LSD
Battery relocation with gell cell to the rear
Misc. Parts: hose, fluids, oil, filter
HKS Oil temp gague,oil pressure gague
Greddy Oil cooler I changed to a 25 row Setrab unit and saved 50 degrees. see pics Greddy oil cooler now used as an AUX water cooler in right fender well. Works great!
AC removal
Remove all under engine unessary parts
including the cruse controll, emmissions etc.
1994 ECU
NGK Racing spark plugs
