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Ultimate Hybrid NSX Project

Please excuse my ignorance but what are droop tethers? I must applaud you because my friend who bought an nsx and. Want to drop an ls motor, I warned him that this is no easy feat and he just laughed... I started laughing and told him about you, he didn't believe me. So I directed to his thread, I don't think he's talked about it since.
 
you can host photos oh photobucket and link them.

can't wait to see more updates on the racecar.
 
Please excuse my ignorance but what are droop tethers?

Your question is one that MOST on this site probably aren't familiar with, so here's your answer: A Droop Tether is simply a device that limits how far down your suspension can "droop" when the car is lifted in the air (or FLYING over a crest, etc.). They serve 2 functions: to keep the shock absorber pistons from crashing into the inside end of their shock tube, AND.....when a racecar uses air jacks, there has to be some way to prevent the tires from continuing to sag on the ground (due to suspension droop) so they lift as soon as the airjacks approach their extension limit, which usually results in the tires clearing the ground by an inch or two. Without tethers, you could never pull the tires off without lifting the car considerably higher!

The only reason I posted my Droop Tethers is because they are extraordinarily strong! They are made from a Spiderman fiber (ZYLON) and are only .190" diameter, yet have a burst strength of 6500 pounds! Additionally, these tethers are Pre-Stretched by the manufacturer, so you only have to set them once!

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Thanks for the tip, but is there a way to upload a BOATLOAD of pics to photo bucket all at one time? Also, if I "link" them to Prime, how do they appear to the viewer?
 
A Droop Tether is simply a device that limits how far down your suspension can "droop" when the car is lifted in the air (or FLYING over a crest, etc.). They serve 2 functions: to keep the shock absorber pistons from crashing into the inside end of their shock tube, AND.....when a racecar uses air jacks, there has to be some way to prevent the tires from continuing to sag on the ground (due to suspension droop) so they lift as soon as the airjacks approach their extension limit, which usually results in the tires clearing the ground by an inch or two. Without tethers, you could never pull the tires off without lifting the car considerably higher

9w0is_zps839068b9.jpg
 
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Not enough attention to detail here................. do it again !! :D

I've said it before and I'll say it again.................. car engineering porn right there !!! Good stuff Dale.........

Okay already...here is the REAL reason I've been missing from Prime:

Seems like this certain babelicious wonder-woman and I started dating just a little over 1 year ago.....and no, I wasn't desperate....she's one of them "real deals"! Anyway, I NEVER stopped working on the racecar, and have actually accomplished MUCH more than the current pictures suggest. My last posts in March & April of 2013 referred to the need to re-design brake cylinders & pedals position.....also was just finishing fuel pump mount at that time (yes, Fraser, THE fuel pump mounted in the tunnel aka "late-night engineering porn"), haha!

Now that I've figured out how to use Photobucket to upload, I can return to my continuing picture-story of racecar fabrication/obsession/torture, aka "tinkering with the mistress"!

In order to use the Super-Duper state-of-the-art Tilton brake pedals & cylinders, I had to clearance the underside of the dash significantly. NOTE: I am purposely keeping the stamped aluminum defroster vent ductwork that is integral to the windshield cowl assembly. I figure it serves to strengthen that area because of its compound-curved cross-section, AND.....I plan to use it to direct air onto the inside of the windshield to prevent fogging. The next few pics show how & why I did it with the car upside down:

http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX Project 5-11-14/DSC_0437.jpg

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<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/20131211_145457.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/20131211_145457.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20131211_145457.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0425.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0425.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0425.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0685.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0685.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0685.jpg"/></a>

HMMMM......I'm not sure I like the end result of posting the photos THIS way.....and the other way (uploading directly from my hard drive) seemed WAAAYYYY too slow! Anyone have any suggestions for a better approach?

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0626.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0626.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0626.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0627.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0627.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0627.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0628.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0628.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0628.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0628.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0628.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0628.jpg"/></a>
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<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0637.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0637.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0637.jpg"/></a>

NEXT UP: One-Off "Swing-Away" Steering Column Design & Fabrication: (so I can exit my full-containment seat quickly under adverse conditions!)
 
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OKAY, ....I'm back with an update! Remember that "Swing-Away Tilt-Ramp" steering column project I've been yacking about? Well it turned out pretty trick, AND IT WORKS!

WHY?.......because I realized AFTER I had a full-containment seat custom made to my bony ass, that the rib-surrounds are SO aggressive (my idea) that I could barely get out of the damn seat with the steering wheel OFF! So, once again, I turned to my old friend, "Late Night Engineering Porn" and came up with a solution! Notice I didn't say SIMPLE solution, haha!

The following pics pretty much tell the story: (If you hover your cursor over the photos, you can read the imbedded photo description)

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0520.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0520.jpg" border="0" alt="Trial positioning steering column & "tilt-ramp". Note "wishbone" tubing section also being trial positioned. photo DSC_0520.jpg"/></a>
Trial positioning steering column & "tilt-ramp". Note "wishbone" tubing section also being trial positioned. What's any self-respecting fabricator gonna do without some 1 x 4s laying around, and of course, copious amounts of safety wire!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0522.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0522.jpg" border="0" alt="This "wishbone-section" is made out of junk electric-weld tubing, just for determing bend angles, and right-to-left spacing. photo DSC_0522.jpg"/></a>
This "wishbone-section" is made out of junk electric-weld tubing, just for determining bend angles, and right-to-left spacing. Notice the "200 mph tape" holding the front of the wishbone in place!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0525.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0525.jpg" border="0" alt="Wishbone section fitted to "leftover" original (straight) crossmember ends. photo DSC_0525.jpg"/></a>
Wishbone section fitted to "leftover" original (straight) crossmember ends. Note the extra "slip-tubing" to allow me to experiment with right-to-left placement of the wishbone, for ramp clearance needs.

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0437.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0437.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0437.jpg"/></a>
Notice the NEW Tilton pedal assemblies and their relation to the lower steering column, which is 4 inches further INBOARD than OEM column hole (because I re-positioned the seat closer to center by 2.5 inches too). New column nestles between brake & gas pedals, but doesn't interfere whatsoever with my feet!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0440-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0440-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Collapsible column has about 6 inches of collapse left; wheel remains fixed, column collapses from bottom-up. photo DSC_0440-1.jpg"/></a>
Collapsible column has about 6 inches of collapse left; wheel remains fixed, column collapses from bottom-up. You can also see that lowest portion of steering column is supported by a FIXED tube enclosure (with internal needle bearings)....the tube bolts to the front lower crossmember which ties the front down-tube attachment plates together (8-point cage!).

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0438.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/DSC_0438.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0438.jpg"/></a>
Early trial positioning; Note aluminum bearing hanger at bottom end of steering column is attached to temporary fixture that allows me to adjust the column's angle of inclination! Notice too that the ramp ends are still in raw length configuration because I hadn't determined the maximum swing that would be possible at this point. (next pic shows ramp with "ends" welded on) You can also see the lower column fixed support tube and the lower front crossmember a little better in this photo.

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/20140507_141551.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/20140507_141551.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140507_141551.jpg"/></a>
Here, the ramp "glide" is clamped at the uppermost end of its swing so the crossmember braces can be fabbed to locate the ramp in its precise arc and inclination. Also, check out the super trick "molded" hanger that positions the lower aluminum steering column bearing carrier! I sorta got carried away one weekend cypherin how to do something different there (wasn't about to weld an angle bracket to all of that lovely round moly), SO.....about 18 man-hours later, and VOILA!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/20140507_150238.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%205-11-14/20140507_150238.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140507_150238.jpg"/></a>
The ramp bracing is pretty simple, and is made out of "O-too-thin" MILD steel tubing (just in case)....notice the entire ramp & glide assembly BOLTS in with just 5 bolts, for fast & easy disassembly. The entire configuration weighs just under 2 pounds!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0645.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0645.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0645.jpg"/></a>
Race position!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/20140520_111747.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/20140520_111747.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140520_111747.jpg"/></a>
EXIT position!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0648-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/NSX%20Project%206-25-14/DSC_0648-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0648-1.jpg"/></a>
Good shot of the completed wishbone crossmember & "Tilt-Away" steering assembly (pretty cool suspension shot too, complete with "Droop-Limit Tethers"!)

What isn't obvious about this "LNEP" is the precision necessary to make this design work smoothly! After a LOT of late night "tinkerin", I decided the Tilt-Ramp should have a radius of 10 inches, on center. That necessitates that it be positioned EXACTLY 10 inches, center-to-center from the center of the universal joint at the base of the steering column. I also had to make sure that the ramp angle and total swing didn't exceed the maximum departure angle inherent in the universal joint design. Like I said.......a whole lotta Late Night Engineering Porn!
 
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Engineering obsession at its finest:smile:, good to know this project is still moving forward (I thought it had been abandoned after going without an update for so long).
 
Engineering obsession at its finest:smile:, good to know this project is still moving forward (I thought it had been abandoned after going without an update for so long).

Thanks for the compliment!......I will NEVER abandon this project....in fact, I will "probably" never stop working on it either, haha!

The car is really MUCH further along than the pictures suggest......it's just that currently I'm doing most of the work with the car upside down, so it's just easier without the engine & tranny & all 4 corners on it. I'm currently "lining" the fuel cell cavities with 3/16" foamcore, and extreme-taping the inside of the foamcore with multiple layers of 5 mil aluminum tape. Next step: spray a lot of mold release in the cavities, & pour some rigid urethane foam in, to produce a "male plug" that is dimensionally 3/8" smaller than actual cavity (final fuel cell will be insulated with 3/16" foam rubber strips on all sides).....so the plugs can be digitized, and send the digital Solidworks file up to Fuel Safe for the final fabrication work.
 
Wow, you've been making some progress...
Haven't seen it for awhile Dale, I'm thinking it might be beer time brother :)
 
Wow, you've been making some progress...
Haven't seen it for awhile Dale, I'm thinking it might be beer time brother :)

Jim,....it's ALWAYS "beer-thirty" at my place....come by sometime!

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FRISBEE NSX SPY PHOTOS!

Okay, so my shifter kart racing buddy is determined to finish his over-the-top NSX racecar before me!......so we're ALREADY racing, haha! He thunk this design up all hisself.....but I AM helping him with suspension ideas.....since it will have almost 4" total travel!

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION83.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION83.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo NSXCONSTRUCTION83.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION203.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION203.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo NSXCONSTRUCTION203.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION283.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION283.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo NSXCONSTRUCTION283.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION93.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION93.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo NSXCONSTRUCTION93.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s639.photobucket.com/user/LS7NSX/media/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION243.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu120/LS7NSX/FRISBEE%20NSX/NSXCONSTRUCTION243.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo NSXCONSTRUCTION243.jpg"/></a>

You get the idea.....I think I will be driving mine before he drives his Frisbee....especially since he doesn't FIT in his! (roof bubble in the works)
 
Lol...
 
Way cool..............
 
UPDATE: Fuel Cell Cavity Prep for Rigid Urethane Plug (Scale Solid Cell Model)


With the car upside down & level, I'm going to pour urethane foam into both the fuel cell cavities so that the resulting "plugs" can be sent off to Fuel Safe for EXACT reproduction. The TRICK is how to make the plugs "slightly" smaller than the cavities so the real-life aluminum cell can have 3/16ths rubber strips glued to all sides to assure non-chafing snug fit.

SOLUTION: I carefully cut 3/16ths foamcore & glued it (sparingly) into the cavities, and THEN covered it with extra heavy-duty aluminum tape (8 mil), and then caulked all of the seams with silicone so the cavity was leak-proof, AND SMALLER by just the right amount. The following pictures show TWO different configurations; the 2nd one being a simpler shape to fabricate, while only sacrificing .13 gal. of capacity.

DSC_0066.jpg

This 1st configuration shows a fairly complicated contour at right side and upper right side of photo.


Same shape, with aluminum tape.


The water was VERY carefully measured (weighed) so I could determine true capacity; 12.3 gallons in this picture.
Then, I carefully emptied exactly 5 gallons, and marked the inside level with a waterproof marker. Then I emptied another 5 gallons, and marked the inside level again. Those "level marks" were measured from the bottom of the fuel cell cavity, and recorded. Now I know the effect of varying amounts of fuel on the center of gravity, i.e. the 1st 5 gallons takes up about 8 vertical inches, and the 2nd 5 gallons takes up the next 10.4 inches, and the remaining 2.3 gallons occupy the top 7.6 inches of the fuel cell. Of course these gallon measurements are easily converted to weight, depending on the fuel being run. (ELF had "no comment")


Carefully removing exactly 5 gallons, and marking inside level on 3 sides


Here is a piece of aluminum sheet ready to glue in to remove some of the complicated contours. Note the extra foamcore "dam" (very top of pic)


Here you can see a slightly reduced capacity, but much simpler shape of final plug.


Again, the final capacity was only reduced by .13 gallon, with a final shape much easier to fabricate (though this isn't exactly an easy shape) I was originally a little worried that my total fuel capacity wasn't going to be enough, but now I'm real happy about having 24 gallons!

This weekend I'm spraying the cavities with a ton of mold release, and pouring the urethane. I made 1/4" Plexiglas bottom cell covers with a 6" hole in the center, so I can pour and let rise in stages until totally full, and the hole allows for excess foam to expand/escape, while the Plexiglas makes the plug have a completely smooth bottom, just like the sides should turn out. I had to wait till now because it's too damn hot in our summer months to work with urethane because it expands and sets up too quickly....our days are perfect now @ 85 degrees.

I'll post more pics after I pull the plugs and clean them up a little!

Stay Tuned!
 
OMG......You should have been on staff designing the new NSX....... Just Awesome......................Kuddos
 
FRISBEE NSX UPDATE!

Just back from the official "Skunk-Works" (Tucson) with NEW spy photos!
Well it seems my Shifter kart racing buddy has been able to spend considerably more time on his project since the last time I visited him.....he has even fired his engine (LS1)! I have to give him credit for taking my advice on his control arms and uprights, by replacing all of the ball joints with Heim joints, and using 4130 tubing for the control arms! I had to insist he create more than 1" of suspension compression though.....so now he has 2"! (Ground clearance = 2")

Here are a few more pics. NOTE: the big-ass front wing is hinged, and will be operated with actuators coordinated with front brake circuit. ALSO: the GIANT radiator will mount at the rear inside the aluminum-angle frame (visible in the pics) at rear deck









NOTE: if you look closely, you can see the HINGE just in front of the windshield lower edge; allows the entire "canopy" to tilt forward to a 90 degree position so my friend can actually get in & out of the car......but there's no room for his helmet! STAY TUNED for the "Gurney Bump"!
 
I agree with you. The diffuser in the photo is off of another tube-frame NSX he had in Europe......doesn't really work well with the frame spacing on the FRISBEE.......but everything is still just being "roughed-out". I would fab a whole new diffuser where the tunnels started about 2 feet farther forward, and notch it for the frame rails to protrude through the bottom, since they are only 2" wide. FYI, my friend is mostly focused on getting it driveable at present, because he is tired of "blowing up stuff" in his "other" turbo NSX, haha!
 
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