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Deleting the ABS system?

I'm curious of the upsides vs downsides to deleting this! I borrowed Liftnots thread as an example http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126100 . Please be honest about the safety issues that may develop, I can take it. Thanks.

I'm driving a 2006 civic Si with an ABS system that didn't function for 7 months. one of the lines (technically a wire from the speed sensor) got pulled while I was re-building the motor and it needed to be replaced.

I would have serious reservations about deleting an ABS system on a car if you plan on driving it regularly on the road. If you hit a patch of sand, gravel, or even a small amount of water while under heavy braking, you could easily lock the tires and get into a wreck. pumping the brakes is the easiest way to avoid locking up the tires and thankfully I used to have an old blazer without ABS that I had to do that in frequently, and that experience saved me from getting into a few wrecks where, if I had relied on the original braking capability of my car, I would have locked up the tires and gone squealing into someone who came to a sudden stop on the highway.

If I were driving the NSX in regular traffic conditions on a regular basis, I wouldn't consider it. there's always that possibility that someone will have a severe wreck on the highway in front of you, and you'll have to stop immediately. without ABS, this can be more difficult. Maybe someone will run a red light, and in that split-second you have to react, you simply nail the brake pedal to the floor.


If you aren't planning on driving the car regularly on the roads, and the weight savings is very important because you're actually tracking the car on a regular basis, it might be a different story.


Finally, I may not know what I'm talking about. who knows, maybe the ABS system in the NSX isn't exactly the same as the one in my civic, and isn't as necessary. I'm still learning about the NSX.
 
I would only do this if I was building a RACE CAR.
I go to the track all the time and still have my ABS.
I use my ABS on the track, it works well.

Sure loosing a few pounds for the track would be helpful but the
dissadvantage does not out weight the benefit of the weight savings.

I think reducing weight on a street car is foolish

Look at it this way.
Assume the car weights 3000lbs. and produces 270hp.
Remove 45Lbs this is 1.5% difference in hp/lb fairly small.
This assumes you also go to a race battery.

Later,
Don
 
Both of you guys make a good point, and yes it is for weight savings on the street which is probably very unnecassary. I've pondered the idea but have yet to consider it. Just weighing my options and likely will not remove it. I'm just curious if any owners have done it on the street and regreted it. I appreciate the great input guys.:smile:
 
The alternative is to spend more money to upgrade to the lighter and improved 2000 and up system.
 
I would only do this if I was building a RACE CAR.
I go to the track all the time and still have my ABS.
I use my ABS on the track, it works well.

Sure loosing a few pounds for the track would be helpful but the
dissadvantage does not out weight the benefit of the weight savings.

I think reducing weight on a street car is foolish

Look at it this way.
Assume the car weights 3000lbs. and produces 270hp.
Remove 45Lbs this is 1.5% difference in hp/lb fairly small.
This assumes you also go to a race battery.

Later,
Don

thx for the warning. I have tender feet. I have a lot more wt. saving than the ABS and the battery. These were the easier ones. so its not just 1.5%. It I'd told you what I have done to save weight, I think you would shoot me:biggrin:

>I think reducing weight on a street car is foolish
that depends on what kind of car it is. Perhaps add on a couple side air bags would protect side impact.
I would do the RPS carbon clutch to loose more weight....from my oem 6-spd. This is rotational weight and I can't wait. Recaro Seats and QR steering....that should be easy 40 lbs. I like my oem wheels too much to go lighter but my brakes can be lighter if I take another Dali diet pill.
I would keep my AC for creature comfort.....:biggrin:
 
Well my ABS stoped working about a year ago, so I just pluged them off. I ve been driving for a year without ABS and it feels the same. If you are a good driver you should be Ok. I also will be getting the deleting kit. Speaking of weight saving.... Im going crazy on it as well. I took of the spare tyre and brakets,all tools, engine cover, stereo, speakers, antenna, Jdm fog lights, D2 light suspention, Advan kreuser V, Taitec headers, GTLW, Carbon wingR, small batery, and next ABS Deleting kit, carbon racing mirrors, pole position light seats, ets.:smile:
 
I would do the RPS carbon clutch to loose more weight....from my oem 6-spd. This is rotational weight and I can't wait. Recaro Seats and QR steering....that should be easy 40 lbs. I like my oem wheels too much to go lighter but my brakes can be lighter if I take another Dali diet pill.
I would keep my AC for creature comfort.....:biggrin:

Any weight you can save to the drive train is beneficial.
This includes brakes rotors clutch/flywheel, tire and rims.

Break calipers are good but for unsprung weight.
The stock brakes are fine for street. They are not very light though.

I deleted the AC mainly to adding additional cooling ducts for my brakes the weight reduction was a side benefit. :)
 
Any weight you can save to the drive train is beneficial.
This includes brakes rotors clutch/flywheel, tire and rims.

Break calipers are good but for unsprung weight.
The stock brakes are fine for street. They are not very light though.

I deleted the AC mainly to adding additional cooling ducts for my brakes the weight reduction was a side benefit. :)

:frown:Too bad Stop Tech has stopped their Ceramic brake program $15k+ is a good deal vs.....Movit ceramic is about $24k + new wheels.:frown:

my car feels more nimble and stops better all the time. :biggrin:
 
Well my ABS stoped working about a year ago, so I just pluged them off. I ve been driving for a year without ABS and it feels the same. If you are a good driver you should be Ok. I also will be getting the deleting kit. Speaking of weight saving.... Im going crazy on it as well. I took of the spare tyre and brakets,all tools, engine cover, stereo, speakers, antenna, Jdm fog lights, D2 light suspention, Advan kreuser V, Taitec headers, GTLW, Carbon wingR, small batery, and next ABS Deleting kit, carbon racing mirrors, pole position light seats, ets.:smile:

we are on the same wavelength:smile:
I lost ton weight with a Procar Alum frt bumper beam and an Axis Racing dry carbon rear bumper beam.
A low power, light sports car feels better than a high power, heavier sports car....that just me. There are so many places on the NSX that you can remove excess weight w/o chopping up the car. I would never add a 40lb+ supercharger ON TOP of the engine.....Prospeed or LoveFab have a better solution..IMO.
 
I have deleted the system as it was no longer functioning. No problems or issues, many miles, several hard stops, foot modulated pressure accordingly. Folks don't seem to remember all the cars that never had ABS to start with. Not much had them before the 90's , never was a big issue of loosing control because of not having ABS.
I would rather have a brake system I am sure of, rather than a poor functioning ABS system to rely on and be disappointed.
 
First and foremost, I consider myself a mediocre driver but from limited testing, I would not delete the ABS system. No matter how good a driver you are you will never be able to regulate the brakes as fast as that computer. Safety first.
Anthony
 
proportioning valve

I am also looking into removing my abs from a 1991 modulator pump cycling and also want to practice threshold braking and car control. It appears that in 2000 Honda not only changed the abs modulator, they also added a proportioning valve for the rear brakes. So my question is should I add a rear brake proportioning valve to my 91 brakes or just wait and see how bad my rear brakes lock up before the fronts? I should also mention that 1991 brakes have the larger rotors from the 1997 on, as well as the larger pistons in the front calipers and I kept the earlier rear calipers that have the larger piston than the 1997 rears.
 
I am also looking into removing my abs from a 1991 modulator pump cycling and also want to practice threshold braking and car control. It appears that in 2000 Honda not only changed the abs modulator, they also added a proportioning valve for the rear brakes. So my question is should I add a rear brake proportioning valve to my 91 brakes or just wait and see how bad my rear brakes lock up before the fronts? I should also mention that 1991 brakes have the larger rotors from the 1997 on, as well as the larger pistons in the front calipers and I kept the earlier rear calipers that have the larger piston than the 1997 rears.


I'll be picking up one of liftnots abs deletes and Tilton lever pro portioning valve once the next batch is ready. I think the adjustability is worth the extra expense considering you wouldn't need to change anything out if you decide to do another brake setup later.
 
I've been running my NSX with the ABS disconnected for some time after the system failed despite changing all the seals with the warren kit.
The issue one is faced when running without any ABS is that the front to rear bias has been optimized for a certain road condition.
The NA1 NSX comes with a 60/40 ratio between the front and the rear wheels so in effect 60% of the braking effort goes to the front wheels and 40% to the rear.
This might seem strange as the NSX has more weight on it's rear wheels but when the car is strongly decelerating there is a mass transfer towards the front enabling more braking power to be applied to the front wheels.
Now let's suppose that the road is wet thus considerably decreasing the tire grip.
Clearly the car can't decelerate as on dry tarmac and thus the mass transfer will not be as great.
The result will be that the front wheels will lock well before the rear wheels.
The ABS will take care of this and will decrease the stopping distance by optimizing the braking effort between the front and rear wheels.
On the NA2 NSX, Honda went a step further by using a proportionning valve ON TOP of it's far improved ABS.
The reason is the following: the ABS action can and should be minimized i.e. under light ( wet) braking the brake balance must be in favor of the rear wheels but if you brake harder ( in the dry) the brake balance must favor the front wheels.
That's the role of the proportionning valve that limits the pressure applied to the pistons in the rear calipers.
Now don't believe that you can go out and buy a proportionning valve for your NA1 and get the same result.
The reason beeing that the front to rear balance is different on the NA2 ( more rear brake) to take into account the adjunction of a proportionning valve.
 
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