+1 for DDM.
I've got their 55W kits on two cars that have worked great for almost two years now.
WhiteNSXs on this website sells a very high quality kit; I have had two of his kits for a couple of years now. I did have one ballast burn out but he quickly replaced it with no hassle. I have never had any other problems like not lighting, flickering. etc. His kit does cost more like $300 but the quality is very high.
1994 Acura NSX now sold - Black/Black/Automatic - "The improvement of driving comfortableness."
1988 Honda Gold Wing GL1500
I've used and sold many different HID kits from DDM and have never had any problems with them. They have good customer support and the best warranty.
I've had the DDM's on my NSX for several years now and they still work flawlessly. IMHO, every NSX should upgrade to these. They really make a world of difference.
NSXCA SouthCentral Rep
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1991 Acura NSX, Black on Black
thanks all for chiming in. i guess this was a good discussion/comment topic. after i picked up my car from downforce for some body work with 02+ side skirts and df sport rear valence, i met up with evof575gtcand hooked me up with his generic hid kit for really cheap plus installation. it was the ballast problem after all.
just want to give a big shout out to evof575gtc for hooking me up with a great price plus installation. thanks!
'00 NSX-T New Formula Red, '94 Legend LS Vineyard Grey, '06 RL Nighthawk Black, '04 G35x Diamond Graphite
i just switched to 4300k bulbs and i still can't figure out why the driver side is brighter then my passenger side light. its a new kit too.
yeah maybe... i'll just switch everything from the left to the right and i'll find out.
Quality is miles beyond DDMTuning if you go with one of the DIGITAL brand kits. Worth every penny, I've had 5 kits throughout my all my cars in the past 3 years and never had a single failure. A few of my family members have also been rocking these kits on their cars with no issues as well. Great customer support. Tell him Rod sent you, you might be able to get a discount too!
The people I heard about melting housings were those that ran 55W kits in Foglight housings that are too small to dissipate heat. OR the housing is made out of plastic and rather than glass.
See the post by M3-GT who runs XenonExpert.com which is another seller of the Apexcone/DDM HID (35W & 55W) kits. He states that the DDM/Apexcone 35W and 55W bulbs are the same.
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Just some FYI on DDM.
I'm on another forum and have been reading issues people are having with the DDM kits, ranging from bulbs burning out in a week, no email response, customer service problems, and long shipping time frames to name a few.
I don't know if any of these are true, but these are what people are posting about. I'm sure every company has their share of ups/downs but thought I'd mention it since they were recommended in this thread.
However, there are a lot of people using their kits with success and the warranty is unbeatable (lifetime, at least while they're in business).
Some other options for HID's are:
hidextra.com (PM for special price)
well this is what DDM has to say on their website
when using a "60w" bulb on any 35w or 55w ballast, it'll overdrive the ballast itself and eventually kill it.The wattage of the HID kit determined by the ballast. All our bulbs are rated up to 60W and work with both the 35W and 55W ballasts without compromising the lifetime of the bulbs.
in some cases not even turn on at all.
its like overclocking a computer without cooling it.
higher wattage ballasts will cook lower wattage bulbs.
its best to match same wattage bulbs and ballast.
location of the of the light source on the bulb also determines your lumen output.
think of a Mag flash light, when you focus the lense you can have a broad dim light, or a more focused bright light. what works for you?
How do dimmers for lights work if the light bulb is rated at say 100watts and the light output can be varied infinitely from 100 watts to 0?
The same could be asked for my 100watt speakers. 100watts is the max they're rated for, but my amp can only put out 50 watts max and my normal listening volume is only at 5-10watts. . will my speakers die early?
And with your computer analogy, if you have a 3.0GHz rated P4 processor (with a 30x multiplier at 1.55Volts) and you underclock it to say 2.6GHz (with a 26x multiplier at only 1.47volts), how will that kill the processor or motherboard? It's less power and less speed. . . so it's less of a load. .
Sorry I don't understand.
Last edited by Hapa88; 06-23-2010 at 18:49.
are you seriously asking me???
or are you just bored?
I wouldn't consider myself to be a HID expert nor am I an electrical engineer, but I do have a physics background and this logic sounds a little fishy to me.