Installed mine, sounds great with Pride V1 (video coming soon), only thing i did not like was the B-line coupler that goes to the throttle, quality & design could've been better(that plastic hardware for the hoses got me wondering, why not just weld the tubes on). That larger hose gets crimp a little due to not enough room in between it & the coupler.
IMO, the factory coupler should have been left intact so that you don't have to tamper with the two stock vacuum hoses.
Here's the break down:
Jack car, remove tire, remove fender liner, remove stock air box/snorkle, throttle coupler & hoses = 25 min.
Then onto the B-line CAI:
Install coupler to throttle intake, the 2 hoses (like i said that big one will be crimped a little), install the 90 degree elbow pipe with bracket to the body of the car where snorkle came out of (bolt, washer & nuts holds it on), install the other pipe to the throttle coupler & to the 90 elbow, spray K&N charging oil to the air filter, let it sit for 20mins to absorb into material, then install the air filter & put everything back in place = 30 min.
Total of 55min
Last edited by Centaur Exhaust; 03-07-2012 at 07:45.
So the filter didnt come pre-oil like the k&n does?
Mine didn't & don't think manufacturers do that for you including B-line.
It's best to charge it yourself & make sure all the gaps are treated.
installed it tonight. i love it.
'01 CL Type-S
We’re happy you like the sound of the intake system!!
We designed our intake system with both performance and consumer in mind. We opted for screw in fittings to make the intake system more cost affective for the consumer. If the intake had weld on fittings, that would mean different fixtures and intakes for the various models years which in turn would have elevated retail cost. By having the fittings we do, the intake is in a sense “universal” for pretty much all years.
As for the factory coupling, it is a bellow style which is not exactly smooth flowing inside. It also does not transition well down to the throttle body diameter, which features somewhat of a wall, which during flow bench testing flowed nearly 45% less air then the smooth tube and coupling.
Yes, the filter is already pre-oiled. There's no need to oil the filter until cleaning time. One sign of a filter that in not oiled is the color, the filter element is essentially a cotton gauge substrate which is white when not oiled or has just recently been cleaned. An oiled filter will either have a Red or sometimes Blue color to them depending on the oil itself. Also just something to keep in mind when oiling an intake filter. Never oil the inside only the exterior and it doesn’t need much. Once the filter element has turned red again you’re good!
Any more reviews?
04 NSX|01 M3|12 RR HSE SC
I'm in for one as soon as we get some dynos showing a good power increase over the stock set up.
As for the air flow thing on the stock coupler, i don't think it makes a huge difference. I will do another mod soon & will be going with a 3.5 inch pipe & slimmer K&N filter so that it will fit better between the fender well & liner & won't crimp liner. Have not dyno mine yet but i'm sure all CAI is expected to have some gains but it's the sound too that i'm after. All in all i would give a rating of 3 out of 5.
Last edited by Centaur Exhaust; 03-15-2012 at 22:11.
On the other hand, even without a test it’s clear that it will increase the intake growl of the engine.
Just received mine on Friday and installed today. Easy install, only problem i had (with the install) was a little space issue with the filter inside the fender well. After some adjustment I got it to fit. I might look into getting a slimmer filter if i can find one.
Sound is definitely much better than the stock intake. As far as power we will see, i only drove it for a few minutes tonight to make sure everything was working properly, but she seemed a little faster. Unfortunately i have never done a dyno on the car so i won't have before and after numbers.
Couple issues i have with the intake:
1. The plastic connectors for the vacuum hose and the crankcase vent. hose. I am probably going to get some JB Weld and make sure those are seated firmly because they come out extremely easily. One fix might be a nut on the inside of the intake to hold those on tighter?
2. The crankcase hose is slightly kinked as there is no room between the intake and the stock metal tube unless it is bent, which i don't want to do.
Other people have already said these same things, hopefully they can tweak these for the next batch.
Dynoed my car last night. Now, first time I dynoed without the intake was on a dynojet, car put out 261rwhp. This time around was on a mustang dyno which reads about 10% lower than a dynojet. With the intake on a mustang dyno, car put out 234rwhp which would be about the same without the intake on a dynojet. I did however put down a 12.7 on the 1/4mi time on the dyno.
is there a way to "hide" this intake with the stock air box for those of us with strict smog requirements? so it will pass visual inspection? and how much is it?
1995 Midnight Pearl NSX-T #400
CT Headers | Prospeed Cats |GT Extreme Exhaust | KW V3 | Dali Track Sways | NSX-R Chassis Bars | CT PowerGrip Clutch | JDM Short Gears| NSX-R Ring & Pinion
92, BBSC, AEM EMS, Walbro pump, 660cc, SOS BBTB, P&P intake manifold, 4" custom intake, custom headers w/2.25 collecters, test pipes, GTLW, Volk GTV 18/19, D2 coilovers, Type-R final drive & gears, RB 324 big brake kit, lexan hatch w/CF scoop