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Converted to LED brake light bulbs, very happy

So don't ground the white and green wire no more? Or ground both?

This is temporary to see what result you get. There is no need to disconnect the white/ green stripe wire at this time if you don't have to. Below is the best way.




What we are looking for (temporarily) is a ground on the orange/white stripe wire and the harness plug to the passenger light disconnected.

Disconnect the white harness plug. You need to rig up another temporary ground wire and touch it to the pin in the harness plug for the Orange/ White stripe wire. Be careful that you only touch that pin, and keep them touching. While you are keeping them in contact, have someone else turn the key to on and touch the brakes. See if you have the light.


Mike
 
I unplug the orange and white and grounded it. Now the brake lamp is always on without me stepping on the brake with the ignition on and does the same even though I put all the wires back into place. Before it only come on after I step on the brake. Did the sensor get shorted out?
 
Nothing should have shorted unless you touched the wrong lead in the plug. Please make sure that your brakelights and parking lights are working. If not i believe the fuse for the brake is #45 in the main relay box.

Also check fuse 5 in the dash fuse box.
 
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So the wiring is back to original, even the white/green stripe?

You said you had tried to ground the orange/white stripe wire in the past. Is it possible that the wire is now broken at the point where you tried to connect in the past? Maybe the wire became scored and now has broken?

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?
 
The orange white wire broke when I unpluged the clip so I reconnected it with the wire splitter. Im guessing the wire splitter is not working on both wires
 
The orange white wire broke when I unpluged the clip so I reconnected it with the wire splitter. Im guessing the wire splitter is not working on both wires

The blue plastic wire splice is not a good way of reconnecting a broken wire. You can do it but only to connect both sides of the broken wire Without the ground you added before.
 
nsxtacey,
Did you get this fixed?

I'm thinking your not getting a good ground from the wire you added. A ground on the Orange/White stripe wire would keep the brake warning light from coming on.

Mike
 
I went to take the blue wire splicer apart to see if there is a good connection but saw that the blade in it didn't cut into orange white wire at all. So then I striped it and grounded it but the brake lamp still came on. So then I removed the blue splicer from the green white wire and it also didn't cut into the wire so I stripped it and ground that wire instead and it now no more brake lamp! So the blue splicers were the problem. After driving 2 years around with the brake lamp on it is finally fixed! Thanks very much for all the help!
 
Your welcome, Glad you got it fixed :smile:. Yeah i don't know why you couldn't get it on the other since they are the same wire but at least it's fixed.

Cheers
Mike
 
I went to take the blue wire splicer apart to see if there is a good connection but saw that the blade in it didn't cut into orange white wire at all. So then I striped it and grounded it but the brake lamp still came on. So then I removed the blue splicer from the green white wire and it also didn't cut into the wire so I stripped it and ground that wire instead and it now no more brake lamp! So the blue splicers were the problem. After driving 2 years around with the brake lamp on it is finally fixed! Thanks very much for all the help!

Did this also fix the cruise control issue? I'd love to do this bulb swap but don't want to have to give up my cruise control.
 
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His Cruise should be fine now. It was the brake failure light that was causing the cruise to not work.


Mike
 
where did yall buy the new blue ground wire. im having the tail light lamp issue also since i installed some led tails
 
Any 14-16 gauge wire will work. You can buy one of the cheap crimpers and you need one each from below. You may be able to find a crimper that includes the needed connectors in one package.

Mike



Ring Terminal- Use the blue one from the kit

pRS1C-2266035w345.jpg


Quck splice

pRS1-12067364w345.jpg
 
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so which one do i ground , green/white?

or orange/white?

thanks in advance
 
so which one do i ground , green/white?

or orange/white?

thanks in advance

It's White/Green stripe

They are the same wire, the color switches at the harness plug. I would suggest using the White/Green stripe because the other is in the main wire harness so best left alone.

Make sure of the color as some of the others are 12v. There is also a green/white stripe but you don't want that one.

Mike
 
where did yall buy the new blue ground wire. im having the tail light lamp issue also since i installed some led tails

It was a piece of wire that I had lying around. Nothing special there! :smile:
 
is there another wire i can ground bc i had custom led tails installed and the white /green wire is no longer there on the pass tail assembly:redface:
 
is there another wire i can ground bc i had custom led tails installed and the white /green wire is no longer there on the pass tail assembly:redface:

The wires from the passenger tail light should connect at a plug for the wire harness. The opposite side of the plug on the wire harness will have a Orange/ White stripe wire that you can ground.


Mike
 
BATMANs,

The answer is "yes." During the installation I put on the LED bulbs on one side and left the OEM incandescent on the other (and no, didn't take photos), and we looked at the lights several different ways, including with the TSX's headlights shining on them as we took turns putting the tail lights/brake lights on off. Darn it, why can't we have a remote control for that?

We both agreed that the LED bulbs were brighter and more contrasty - also the LEDs were more attention-getting because they turned on faster and more abruptly.

Not to say that it's the same contrast as with the incandescents, but it seemed very clear to us. (Of course, this is during a test when we knew what was going on.)

That's the same conclusion that we've come to each time, including with the Miata and with a 1996 Jeep Cherokee (long since traded) which was the first car we "upgraded" to LEDs. Bottom line: I feel safer with the LEDs.

I'll take a photo of the wiring when I get home tonight.


You know...they make nice LED bulbs that just plug right in the existing sockets and "Viola!" LED lights....so what's with all this re-wire work?

...or am I missing something here?


.
 
You know...they make nice LED bulbs that just plug right in the existing sockets and "Viola!" LED lights....so what's with all this re-wire work?

...or am I missing something here?


.

That's what he is using. The LED replacement bulbs use very little power compared to a standard incandesent bulb. When you replace the lail light bulbs with the LED type the system think one of the bulbs has burned out because of the low draw of the LED. This causes the BRAKE light on the cluster to illuminate which in turn cancels the cruise from working. So you have to fool the system in to thinking the bulb is still good.


Mike
 
That's what he is using. The LED replacement bulbs use very little power compared to a standard incandesent bulb. When you replace the lail light bulbs with the LED type the system think one of the bulbs has burned out because of the low draw of the LED. This causes the BRAKE light on the cluster to illuminate which in turn cancels the cruise from working. So you have to fool the system in to thinking the bulb is still good.


Mike

Thank you...now it makes more sense.

.
 
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