Funny...
So if you are REALLY fast, you FIRST need a laptimer display in your car and THEN you need to do a fast lap and just cruise the last 100 yard to cross the finish at EXACTLY 2:12:01 :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
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Time Attack CTSC NSX
- Thread starter Dimer
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Funny...
So if you are REALLY fast, you FIRST need a laptimer display in your car and THEN you need to do a fast lap and just cruise the last 100 yard to cross the finish at EXACTLY 2:12:01 :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
This how Time Attack rules work. You can compete in four different classes. Each class has its own time frame. So, depending on experience, skills and the way your car is tuned, you will get an honest competition. If you go to fast, you don't belong in that class and you have to move on to the next faster class. Problem is, that you car has to be compliant to that class. Dimer was to fast in his class and actually has to move up to the next class but he automatically was disqualified for not meeting the rules/regulations of the faster class.
Next Time Attack we hope his race car will be ready. So he can compete with real race cars :biggrin:
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So which one of you two is the better driver?
I hope Dimer is :smile:
i love the photos that your are taking!
Modest dad.... If I remember right you were not too bad yourself.
At the engine shop:
Just curious what process they are working on here.... some kind of balancing?
Yes, they were balancing the crankshaft.
We are making progress Both the lexan side windows are in. We have to get the glass hatch off the the frame and then we can mount the lexan hatch as well. This will be a tough job though... The engine is back in place, but we are waiting for a new supercharger bearing before we can finish it. The full front suspension is back on. It is now beginning to look like a car again
Honda NSX Time Attack Race Car by dimervansanten, on Flickr
We are making progress
Both the lexan side windows are in. We have to get the glass hatch off the the frame and then we can mount the lexan hatch as well. This will be a tough job though... The engine is back in place, but we are waiting for a new supercharger bearing before we can finish it. The full front suspension is back on. It is now beginning to look like a car again Honda NSX Time Attack Race Car by dimervansanten, on Flickr
We are making progress
do they fit "oem" well or does it fit ok? would it go up and down w/o scratching the surface? are you impressed by their workmanship?
was it easy to install once the side panels are off?
Hi Dimer,
Starting to look VERY good.
Did you get your CTSC thermal insulating gasket from Adnan yet??
Starting to look VERY good.
Did you get your CTSC thermal insulating gasket from Adnan yet??
Fitment is exactly OEM, very good! All the OEM mounts fit perfectly. I had to have the mount professionally removed from the glass windows.
I have not driven the car yet, so I don't know about noise or if the lexan will flex. Once we have down our first shakedown Ill post updates
I don't have any electronics left in the doors, so my windows are fixed. But it should be possible to still slide them up and down, though I would recommend to get the coated windows to prevent scratching. You can contact Bas, he is an P4P agent, he has a thread here as well for his yellow NSX.
I have not driven the car yet, so I don't know about noise or if the lexan will flex. Once we have down our first shakedown Ill post updates
I don't have any electronics left in the doors, so my windows are fixed. But it should be possible to still slide them up and down, though I would recommend to get the coated windows to prevent scratching. You can contact Bas, he is an P4P agent, he has a thread here as well for his yellow NSX.
ABS delete system.
CNC'd 1/2 inch aluminum with interchangeable brass fittings.
Connected to the master cylinder with 2>4 splitters, bolts right on to the OEM hard lines, also uses OEM ABS bracket and mounts.
Looks great adnan, although i would use some allen bolts instead!
That's a quick prototype mock up, the studs aren't correct ether.
Adnan... do you have a price for it yet?
Why does it need to be so complicated ?
ABS delete system.
CNC'd 1/2 inch aluminum with interchangeable brass fittings.
Connected to the master cylinder with 2>4 splitters, bolts right on to the OEM hard lines, also uses OEM ABS bracket and mounts.
I would think that two Y fittings would do?
Well if you'd leave the hard lines exposed it presents a number of issues,
First of all in most European countries it wouldn't pass inspection as that requires brakes to be thoroughly secured,
Secondly this allows for a stable platform to mount all components to the hard lines would shake around if they aren't mounted, it would also make identifying pipes quite a bit harder, (again a possible issue in your pre-race inspection)
Third point would be that this allows you to mount biasing valves securely.
First of all in most European countries it wouldn't pass inspection as that requires brakes to be thoroughly secured,
Secondly this allows for a stable platform to mount all components to the hard lines would shake around if they aren't mounted, it would also make identifying pipes quite a bit harder, (again a possible issue in your pre-race inspection)
Third point would be that this allows you to mount biasing valves securely.
In all honesty, I agree with you. We are looking into a different way to do the lines. The way it is now I have no room left for the air ducting from the radiator to the hood, as this system takes up a lot of space.
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It's been quite a long time since my last update... and a lot has happened.
First, we had the car on the dyno. We settled at 385hp @ 400nm after three hours on the dyno. It got quite hot, under normal temperatures the engine will probably delivery just over 400hp.
After the car was tuned properly it was time to make some pics:
Honda NSX by dimervansanten, on Flickr
Honda NSX by dimervansanten, on Flickr
Unfortunately just after the shoot and only 50km after the tune (and 200km after the rebuild) disaster struck.. We heard a weird noise coming from the engine. A kind of rattling/tapping noise. Luckily we were very close to our garage so we headed back. After inspection with a stethoscope and lots of talk with experts we suspected it might be head related. But we couldn't find anything.. Cody advised us to get the car on a lift and take off the oil pan. This is what we found:
That sucked! Especially since this happened just before we would go to Le Mans to test the car on the track. We didn't want this to f*ck up our weekend, so we went anyway.
NSX Club Europe Le Mans 2013 by dimervansanten, on Flickr
NSX Club Europe Le Mans 2013 by dimervansanten, on Flickr
NSX Club Europe Le Mans 2013 by dimervansanten, on Flickr
NSX Club Europe Le Mans 2013 by dimervansanten, on Flickr
NSX Club Europe Le Mans 2013 by dimervansanten, on Flickr
NSX Club Europe Le Mans 2013 by dimervansanten, on Flickr
Luckily we also brought my dad's NSX, so I could do some laps in his car.
Through AS-Motorsport we have located a new engine. We will most probably swap the engines this week. This way we can still be ready for the next race while we can send the other engine to the engine builder to have it examined and fixed.
In the meanwhile we finally got the rollcage plates welded, a BIG thank you to Bas (R-Developments). We now have the cage fitted!
Also thanks to Bas (R-Developments) I got a new helmet:
Hi Dimer,
I was wondering why you didn't give us a video of Le Mans?
Now I understand.
Really sorry to see what happened:frown:
I missed both Spa and then Le Mans due to gearbox issues, now you have an engine issue, it's getting more and more expensive to get our cars on the track.
Never mind we'll meet next year for sure!
I was wondering why you didn't give us a video of Le Mans?
Now I understand.
Really sorry to see what happened:frown:
I missed both Spa and then Le Mans due to gearbox issues, now you have an engine issue, it's getting more and more expensive to get our cars on the track.
Never mind we'll meet next year for sure!
Unfortunately just after the shoot and only 50km after the tune (and 200km after the rebuild) disaster struck.. We heard a weird noise coming from the engine. A kind of rattling/tapping noise. Luckily we were very close to our garage so we headed back. After inspection with a stethoscope and lots of talk with experts we suspected it might be head related. But we couldn't find anything.. Cody advised us to get the car on a lift and take off the oil pan. This is what we found:
That sucked! Especially since this happened just before we would go to Le Mans to test the car on the track. We didn't want this to f*ck up our weekend, so we went anyway.
Dimer, awesome car! Sorry to see the rod bearing damage.
I'm rebuilding my engine right now, and have run into problems with my rod bearings too:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/154927-Semi-DIY-Mild-Engine-Build-for-FI/page19
I looked through your thread, and it looks like you reused your OEM rods, OEM rod bolts, and I assume you just bought replacement OEM rod bearings. That is what I was doing too until I ran into clearance issues on 3 of my pistons. Even new different-sized OEM Honda bearings wouldn't bring me within specification.
Your engine isn't the only one I heard about failing today. There is another one in California built by a very reputable engine builder that spun a rod bearing too just after it was rebuilt. I assume this other engine was using new OEM rod bearings too. Hopefully that owner will chime in.
I'm going to put my old rod bearings inside a few of the rods and check the clearances again... just out of curiosity.
Dave
Well the the bearings weren't done to Honda's standard procedure,
The engine builder compared the color coded bearings to see which was thickest than line honed the rest to match the thickest bearing.
If i recall our meetings correctly he ended up machining everything to spec green.
Bolts are iirc ARP.
The engine builder compared the color coded bearings to see which was thickest than line honed the rest to match the thickest bearing.
If i recall our meetings correctly he ended up machining everything to spec green.
Bolts are iirc ARP.
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