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My first time

Joined
1 October 2006
Messages
2,738
Location
Memphis TN
Hey guys,
This will be my first FI car so i don't know much about it. About to pull my hair out trying to figure out what i need
to do. I have searched but that gets even more confusing since most people go a different route. My plan is to use
low boost and a AEM FI/C to control it.


I would really appreciate any help with this that you can give.


Here is what i have.
2002 3.2
Whipple high boost kit


Here is what i will use.
AEM FI/C
High flow injectors (RC SL9-0550 550cc @ 43.4psi)
Low boost pulley
fuel pump (probably OEM)



So first, i need to know if any of the electrical/fuel devices (modifiers, regulator)
from the kit will need to be used or will it just be mounting the sc and installing the FI/C.

Also besides the pulley and belt is there anything from the high boost kit that needs to be changed?

Thank you
Mike







This is my running list.

Parts i have purchased
1. Whipple sc for 3.2
2. AEM FI/C 30-1911
3. Low boost pulley (91mm)
4. Injectors (RC SL9-0550 550cc @ 43.4psi)
5. Elbow repair kit (Driving Ambition)
6. Fuel line fitting (Earl's)
7. New blower belt
8. New fuel filter
9. FI/C harness adapter

Also i will be doing the TB, WP and valve adjustment at the same time. I only have about 28k
but i feel better doing it before the install.
 
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Edit.. It looks like the OEM fuel pump is good for 36-53psi without being boosted. The RDX
injectors are rated at 410cc at 38psi so i would think the boost-a-pump won't be needed.

The 410cc RDX injectors will not support much over 350whp at normal fuel pressure levels. I would recommend running 550cc injectors as a min. If some day you decide to make a change from the CTSC to a turbo the 550cc size is better suited to the power levels you will be making without a built motor.

Dave
 
So first, i need to know if any of the electrical/fuel devices (modifiers, regulator)
from the kit will need to be used or will it just be mounting the sc and installing the FI/C.

Also besides the pulley and belt is there anything from the high boost kit that needs to be changed?

Here is what I would do to make life easier.

Get rid of the entire CTSC fuel system,
get AEM 1:1 FPR if the CT one you have is a RRFPR,
install 550cc to 750cc injectors,
replace the fuel pump with either a Walbro 255 or Deatschwerks DW300 320lph,
new fuel filter,
eliminate the banjo bolts using AN style fittings,
install the F/IC w/plug and play harness,
think about meth if you plan on running the car hard on the street or track.
Find a good tuner who understands the F/IC.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave.

There are 2 FPR's but i don't know what they are. One with 1k and one new. I will know next week.

What are the banjo bolts?


Mike
 
What are the banjo bolts?

The fuel lines at the fuel filter are held in place with a banjo bolt, it is a very restrictive way to connect the fuel lines to the fuel filter. Earl's fittings makes an adapter that screws into your filter and turns the fitting into a standard -6 AN fitting, you can have your existing CT lines modified to connect directly to the AN style fittings at any speed shop.

This a link to the fitting, this is not a real important thing to do but if you want to go for more power someday this should be on the list and your pump will be happier without the restriction. There are actually two of them at the filter but to replace the one at the tank side you have to make a new line to go from the tank to the filter. In 2004 for some reason Honda reworked the OEM fuel rails to get rid of the banjo style connections at the rails. The CT kit gets rid of all of them but the ones at the filter.
http://www.holley.com/949091ERL.asp
 

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OK,
I am actually working in cleveland and summit isn't far away. They have them for $20.


Been looking at the RC550 for the injectors. And SOS has an adapter to use the oem 1:1 FPR with the ctsc. Would that be a bad idea? I won't be going for more power in the future.




On a side note. I was going to get a big bore TB but was told there are problems getting the throttle to work correctly..... bummer.

Thanks
Mike
 
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OK,
I am actually working in cleveland and summit isn't far away. They have them for $20.


Been looking at the RC550 for the injectors. And SOS has an adapter to use the oem 1:1 FPR with the ctsc. Would that be a bad idea? I won't be going for more power in the future.




On a side note. I was going to get a big bore TB but was told there are problems getting the throttle to work correctly..... bummer.

Thanks
Mike
If youre going low boost then why go aem and big injectors instead od basic low booat things that are make to work good with low boost?
 
If youre going low boost then why go aem and big injectors instead od basic low booat things that are make to work good with low boost?

Hey buddy, how's she doing?

Mainly because there have been so many posts about people running lean at the top with the ctsc. I don't want to take the risk because too lean leads to detonation. When you think about it, all the fuel related parts of the kit seem to be like a bandaid, just to make it work. With the FI/C most of those parts won't even be used and the tuner should be able to set it up where going lean at the top is no issue. I chose the FI/C over the stand alone because it keeps the oem computer.

Mike
 
hi comtec. i have wil's (angus) turbo kit ( not installed yet) and ill be using the aem ems series 2 from SOS. the ems is connected with the oem ecu. the oem ecu will only control the drive by wire and ems takes control all the rest. give chris from SOS a call.
 
Hey buddy, how's she doing?

Mainly because there have been so many posts about people running lean at the top with the ctsc. I don't want to take the risk because too lean leads to detonation. When you think about it, all the fuel related parts of the kit seem to be like a bandaid, just to make it work. With the FI/C most of those parts won't even be used and the tuner should be able to set it up where going lean at the top is no issue. I chose the FI/C over the stand alone because it keeps the oem computer.

Mike
I need to get dyno run in so I can check afr but she seems to run great.
 
hi comtec. i have wil's (angus) turbo kit ( not installed yet) and ill be using the aem ems series 2 from SOS. the ems is connected with the oem ecu. the oem ecu will only control the drive by wire and ems takes control all the rest. give chris from SOS a call.

Hey thanks,
I already purchased my FI/C and it should be fine for what i am doing. But i appreciate the heads up :smile:.


Mike
 
Been looking at the RC550 for the injectors. And SOS has an adapter to use the oem 1:1 FPR with the ctsc. Would that be a bad idea? I won't be going for more power in the future.

Post up pics of the FPR that you have already, if you have the one from the low boost kit it is a 1:1 FPR and will be fine to use, if you have a true HiBoost kit from Comptech and not just a smaller pulley then you will have what Comptech calls a FMU or RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) that one you do not want to use.

If you get new injectors you will need adapters for the connections and check with SOS about the number of cushion rings needed to make them fit correctly. If you are not going to be looking for more power than the standard CTSC you could do the 440's or the RDX 410's if you can find a deal on any of those they will work. You will be WHP limited to about 360 with the smaller injectors.

Dave
 
Hey thanks,
I already purchased my FI/C and it should be fine for what i am doing. But i appreciate the heads up :smile:.

The F/IC is like the worlds most powerfull super computer compared to the CTSC fuel system. You will be fine at your boost and power levels. The full stand-a-lone can be a better option but with the CTSC and the high IAT you will not be able to add timing anyway and that is the advantage the stand-a-lone ECU has full timing control not just timing retard, The rest of the advantages are really not going to come into play with the power and boost levels you are running, and if you have emmission issues to deal with the OEM ECU and the F/IC is the only real option you have if you want to keep the car legal.

Dave
 
Dave,
Everything is in UPS's hands right now but i will post a pic of both FPR's next week. The kit was dealer installed on a new NSX as part of that special package (high boost, upgraded brakes, etc) so i think it is the true high boost kit.

I believe the injectors coming with the kit would be 440's. Any way to tell from a picture? I'm sure they would need to be cleaned and checked.


Mike
 
The F/IC is like the worlds most powerfull super computer compared to the CTSC fuel system. You will be fine at your boost and power levels. The full stand-a-lone can be a better option but with the CTSC and the high IAT you will not be able to add timing anyway and that is the advantage the stand-a-lone ECU has full timing control not just timing retard, The rest of the advantages are really not going to come into play with the power and boost levels you are running, and if you have emmission issues to deal with the OEM ECU and the F/IC is the only real option you have if you want to keep the car legal.

Dave

Awesome, that makes me feel much better. I'm just guessing at this stuff. Worked on cars alot when i was younger but those were carburetor days.

Thank you very much for helping
Mike




fyi.... I am going to keep a running list of parts at the end of the first post. Maybe it will be easier for the next guy.
 
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Dave,
Everything is in UPS's hands right now but i will post a pic of both FPR's next week. The kit was dealer installed on a new NSX as part of that special package (high boost, upgraded brakes, etc) so i think it is the true high boost kit.

I believe the injectors coming with the kit would be 440's. Any way to tell from a picture? I'm sure they would need to be cleaned and checked.


Mike

Do you know what year the old system came off of, if it is a whipple it could have one of the old castings for the intake and may not work on a '97 and newer car.

Not trying to scare you but the old cars did not use an air pump for emmisions and as a result the early kits did not have the ports machined into the new cast intake that CT made. If you have pics of it or when you get it, look at the intake ports where they bolt to the heads, they will have a small port on the outside of the intake runner near the fuel injector location and two small bolt holes there as well. These ports and mounting points are needed on the '97 and newer cars to connect the emmissions air injection pump. Without them you will not be able to install that intake on your OBDii car.

Dave
 
Dave,
Everything is in UPS's hands right now but i will post a pic of both FPR's next week. The kit was dealer installed on a new NSX as part of that special package (high boost, upgraded brakes, etc) so i think it is the true high boost kit.

I believe the injectors coming with the kit would be 440's. Any way to tell from a picture? I'm sure they would need to be cleaned and checked.


Mike

Unless the injectors were upgraded by the owner the CTSC HiBoost kit shipped with 330-360cc injectors I think. I have a set on my shelf but I nerver sent them out to be tested as I knew they would be to small when I went to the AEM ECU.

Dave
 
Do you know what year the old system came off of, if it is a whipple it could have one of the old castings for the intake and may not work on a '97 and newer car.

Not trying to scare you but the old cars did not use an air pump for emmisions and as a result the early kits did not have the ports machined into the new cast intake that CT made. If you have pics of it or when you get it, look at the intake ports where they bolt to the heads, they will have a small port on the outside of the intake runner near the fuel injector location and two small bolt holes there as well. These ports and mounting points are needed on the '97 and newer cars to connect the emmissions air injection pump. Without them you will not be able to install that intake on your OBDii car.

Dave

No problem, please say everything cause i don't want to miss anything.

It was installed on a 98 before the car was sold new. And i have already decided not to use the injectors because of their age.

Thanks
Mike
 
If you have a high boost S/C, why not take advantage of it? If you read through all the old CTSC posts, almost every driver loves the newfound power right away but then finds out that 330rwhp is not REALLY enough.

Why go to all the trouble if so many before you have felt a little "disappointed"? I say, go for the high boost right away. You will pull out an additional 40hp/Tq with a conservative tune and that should get you over 380rwhp without any real additional risk.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
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I you have a high boost S/C, why not take advantage of it? If you read through all the old CTSC posts, almost every driver loves the newfound power right away but then finds out that 330rwhp is not REALLY enough.

Why go to all the trouble if so many before you have felt a little "disappointed". I say, go for the high boost right away. You will pull out an additional 40hp/Tq with a conservative tune and that should get you over 380rwhp without any real additional risk.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Because i don't want to abuse the car any more then i have to. It's not just the tuning. At 330 i will already be running the engine way over spec for the internals.

I don't get to drive the car enough to get disappointed, it's a thrill everytime :biggrin:.

Thanks for the luck
Mike
 
Get the Injector Dynamics 725 cc injectors and call it a day. They will be more than enough injector for your low-boost setup, and/or a high-boost setup should you go that way.

This is directly from RC Engineering, their 440 and 550 cc injectors are OLD technology. They are working on a modern injector, but Injector Dynamics is clearly the leader with respect to modern aftermarket injectors.
 
If you have a high boost S/C, why not take advantage of it? If you read through all the old CTSC posts, almost every driver loves the newfound power right away but then finds out that 330rwhp is not REALLY enough.

Why go to all the trouble if so many before you have felt a little "disappointed"? I say, go for the high boost right away. You will pull out an additional 40hp/Tq with a conservative tune and that should get you over 380rwhp without any real additional risk.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
Might seem looney tunes to some of you guys but I definitely don't want any more power (better gearing? perhaps..). With all that's exponentially involved with a 400hp+ car, i'd rather build a bullet proof low boost 350-380hp car and work on my lap times.

I guess it all really depends on your driving intentions for the car. If I didn't track the car occasionally where I highly value reliability i'd probably do a 500hp build myself.
 
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