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What mod do you wish you did sooner?

That is a very good point indeed. I think I might just go for the fidanza and save 270 bucks and no wait time. Look like they are quite reputable too. I just don't know how big of a difference in feel comparing 9.3lb and 7.5lb FWs.

I would think it would be noticeable, it may seem small but that is a weight difference of 24% between the two. Either would be a huge improvement over stock but why not maximize the performance? Also, I have not noticed any decrease in street-ibility bc you just adjust naturally, and stock engagement is so light it's easy to use regardless. Before this oem/fidanza setup I had the ACT kit iirc and it was overkill. The oem clutch is really all you need unless you are making too much power for it to hold IMO.
 
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Back to my comments on the JDM gears and 4.55 R&P... It's great on the street (and cruising on the freeway too), fine for most tracks if they don't have really long straights -- fine at Sears Point, Laguna Seca, Mid-Ohio for example.

If you FI with a lot of HP (adding more than 100) the 4.55 might be too short -- "R" R&P might be better. Plus, I'm told the Comptech 4.55 is not strong enough for high horsepower (fine for me). For occasional track days it is fine (I've done a ton with mine), but for serious track work I'm told they fail.

My $0.02, your mileage may vary.
 
Just something more to add to the mix of information. This is what Rob had to say on the DAL mirror site.
if I needed to pick one set of gears between, stock, short gears, or a combination with the three common sets of ring and pinions; I would run the short gear set with the OE ring and pinion. It has had the best average gearing for the tracks you will encounter. This combination is far better for road racing then OE, and if you’re driving on the street it will still have the same final drive ratio. I’m told that the aftermarket ring and pinions are less durable then the OE when used with high horsepower. The short gears even your ratios and bring them down from 2nd to 4th. 1st and 5th stay the same. The ring and pinions lower everything, making 1st unusable, and you still have the poor 2nd gear transition. A combination of short gears and the R&P bring your gearing way too low.

Still debating on my setup unfortunately... I have a feeling I may end up with the short gears regardless but debating on the final drive at the moment. I also appreciate that certain gear sets are better for certain tracks so one size does not fit all but you can probably get close.
 
I don't think there is a such thing as a "too light" flywheel if you are after max power. You do have to be a bit quicker with shifting bc the revs drop and rise faster is all. I have the fidanza which is the lightest and cheapest, and you can replace the friction surface for $60! Had it for 4 years now with the oem clutch and it makes a huge difference in acceleration!

This is the combo I have and I noticed the difference right away and the light weight fly wheel also eliminates alot of the chatter when engaging
 
I would think it would be noticeable, it may seem small but that is a weight difference of 24% between the two. Either would be a huge improvement over stock but why not maximize the performance? Also, I have not noticed any decrease in street-ibility bc you just adjust naturally, and stock engagement is so light it's easy to use regardless. Before this oem/fidanza setup I had the ACT kit iirc and it was overkill. The oem clutch is really all you need unless you are making too much power for it to hold IMO.

I understand where you are coming from but if they make a 6 lb flywheel, will you get that instead? How light will you go?

I have no doubt the fidanza performs well but I will stick with the Jun since I ordered it.
 
This is what I have. You guys know I do my homework. Just sayin... ;)

Just something more to add to the mix of information. This is what Rob had to say on the DAL mirror site.


Still debating on my setup unfortunately... I have a feeling I may end up with the short gears regardless but debating on the final drive at the moment. I also appreciate that certain gear sets are better for certain tracks so one size does not fit all but you can probably get close.
 
I understand where you are coming from but if they make a 6 lb flywheel, will you get that instead? How light will you go?

I have no doubt the fidanza performs well but I will stick with the Jun since I ordered it.

I would go to a 1 lb carbon flywheel if it would work and it was time to replace it! The car is so much faster at freeway speeds. Anyways, that's cool its your car I was just posting my thoughts. I am sure you will be happy either way.

Now back to the final drive- Does the 4.55 mentioned work with the 6 speed differential or does one need to get the 5 speed diff a la type R 4.23? Or do you have to buy a matching diff just like the OSG 4.4?
 
I would go to a 1 lb carbon flywheel if it would work and it was time to replace it! The car is so much faster at freeway speeds. Anyways, that's cool its your car I was just posting my thoughts. I am sure you will be happy either way.
going too light on the fly won't allow the engine to idle at 800rpm. it'll stall as soon as you let off the gas :) but yes! I know what you mean. I'm excited about a LWFW for sure.

I'm jealous about your 6spd you bastard...
 
going too light on the fly won't allow the engine to idle at 800rpm. it'll stall as soon as you let off the gas :) but yes! I know what you mean. I'm excited about a LWFW for sure.

I'm jealous about your 6spd you bastard...

Hehe. Well I am jealous of your 02 conversion! And, my wallet is jealous of your wallet for not buying the 6 speed and wanting to rebuild it with a different final drive. It is a PITA and $$$ ! I think I may just skip it bc of all the hassle it causes and save it for later. I will probably do the type r input shaft though... Want to keep my wonderful clutch setup.
 
Nero. So you have the 6 speed right now but if you can do it over, you would not have get it as it is not worth the money? Please let me know what you think. I am on the verge of getting a 6 speed and everything and about the spend a whopping almost 10k. If jdm gear and final drive is good enough. I might just do that instead.
 
Driveway lip.

There's a 25MPH speed limit on my street and when I had a curb I had to wait for traffic to clear then back in at a 45 degree angle slowly.

Now with the lip I can literally turn straight into my driveway at almost the speed limit. The bonus extends to everyone else that uses your driveway too, friends appreciate the easy entry no matter what they drive.
 
Nero. So you have the 6 speed right now but if you can do it over, you would not have get it as it is not worth the money? Please let me know what you think. I am on the verge of getting a 6 speed and everything and about the spend a whopping almost 10k. If jdm gear and final drive is good enough. I might just do that instead.

Everyone says the 6 speed is one of the best upgrades for the car, which I believe it is but I don't have mine installed yet. There are a few local members that have it and they assured me I would love it. After looking at the gear ratio data closely it makes sense, it keeps the rev drop 300-600 rpm higher in all gears than the 5spd w jdm gears so you are always further into the power band after a shift. The jdm gears are a great cost effective upgrade bc for a quarter of the cost you get much of the benefit of the 6spd. The downside is fuel economy and the higher gear acceleration is better in the 6spd, both of which greatly effect freeway driving (which is 90% of my use). If I were mostly tracking I would have just gotten the short gears but for me the 6 spd will be worth it. Plus if you have a coupe w a 6 spd that is just awesome, since that was never available here. Talk about rarity! Are you buying a different final drive and LSD? That is where I am finding it get expensive.
 
The 6spd has a near perfect gear set. If you're doing 90% driving I definitely would not upgrade the final drive to anything shorter than the stock 4.06. If you're after the last bit of nth second off your lap time then a shorter final drive would help. I know a lot of folks do love a shorter final drive for street use too. Is it worth the extra $1500 min? You'll have to decide.

Btw.. the 5spd does have some advantages. It's better in that you have more clutch choices. However, if your'e changing the input shaft then you can use any of the 5spd clutches on the 6spd. The 5spd is also much cheaper to rebuild in terms of rebuild parts (i.e. synchros). Lastly, the 5spd is also stronger if you're pursuing the upper echelons of hp. At the bare min i'd WPC treat the 6spd gears if you've already got it open.

Just so you guys know... for some reason, at this particular moment in time, Honda sells the 6spd cheaper than the 5spd brand new. Kind of odd...

Furthermore, the only thing that doesn't make the 6spd a slam dunk for me is that one has to change the input shaft in order to take advantage of more clutch selections. This requires opening the case and have it reassembled with the proper tolerances by a professional. A $350 part turns into a $1350 out the door cost if labor is taken into account. Friggin' expensive. By the end of the day your 6spd costs as much as a CTSC. Honestly though...having gone the CTSC route I would consider getting gears first if I had it to do over again. That's if you've been bitten by the track bug. For a street car i'd do the CTSC first. Tough choice...

$0.02
 
All good points RYU, I think we covered this subject pretty thoroughly! I have also read the 5spd is more robust for FI applications and the longer gears in that situation are advantageous. If you are staying NA then the 6 spd helps extract that extra bit out of the engine which helps a lot considering the 1-2 vtec problem. The clutch issue is a bit complicated, so let me ask you which clutches you like and why?
 
All good points RYU, I think we covered this subject pretty thoroughly! I have also read the 5spd is more robust for FI applications and the longer gears in that situation are advantageous. If you are staying NA then the 6 spd helps extract that extra bit out of the engine which helps a lot considering the 1-2 vtec problem. The clutch issue is a bit complicated, so let me ask you which clutches you like and why?

For a NA car I still like the OEM .... when you need to get a new one just replace the pads and your good to go.
 
All good points RYU, I think we covered this subject pretty thoroughly! I have also read the 5spd is more robust for FI applications and the longer gears in that situation are advantageous. If you are staying NA then the 6 spd helps extract that extra bit out of the engine which helps a lot considering the 1-2 vtec problem. The clutch issue is a bit complicated, so let me ask you which clutches you like and why?
I just tried a local owner's Clutch Master FX200 NSX clutch. I liked it a lot.

I still have some questions to ask the company tomorrow but i'm considering the FX300 to pair with my CTSC.
 
Thanks for the excellent post.

I am now deciding between:

1) Original 5 Speed w/ JDM Gears, OEM Clutch w/ JUN Flywheel. or...

2) Double Syncros 6 Speed w/ Type R 4.23 Final, OEM Twin Clutch w/ JUN Flywheel.

The two options is 5000 dollars difference so that's a big chunk of cash for me. I can using that for a some DF Seats and KW V3s. Thinking about it, I rather have the DF Seats and V3s, and maybe some change left over. Is the 6 speed worth 5k more? Decision, decision...
 
Thanks for the excellent post.

I am now deciding between:

1) Original 5 Speed w/ JDM Gears, OEM Clutch w/ JUN Flywheel. or...

2) Double Syncros 6 Speed w/ Type R 4.23 Final, OEM Twin Clutch w/ JUN Flywheel.

The two options is 5000 dollars difference so that's a big chunk of cash for me. I can using that for a some DF Seats and KW V3s. Thinking about it, I rather have the DF Seats and V3s, and maybe some change left over. Is the 6 speed worth 5k more? Decision, decision...
This is just my opinion but if i were you i'd consider a 3rd option if you plan to stay NA for a while. I'd do the JDM gears + 4.235 + LWFW + OEM clutch.

The acceleration kick comes from mostly the final drive. The JDM short gears helps you stay in the optimal rev range when shifting...for the most part. The downfall is you'll be busier shifting gears all the time especially when you couple together the final + JDM gears. Not an easy decision of which "analysis paralysis" has taken a good hold on me! lol
 
This is just my opinion but if i were you i'd consider a 3rd option if you plan to stay NA for a while. I'd do the JDM gears + 4.235 + LWFW + OEM clutch.

The acceleration kick comes from mostly the final drive. The JDM short gears helps you stay in the optimal rev range when shifting...for the most part. The downfall is you'll be busier shifting gears all the time especially when you couple together the final + JDM gears. Not an easy decision of which "analysis paralysis" has taken a good hold on me! lol

If that is the case, I might just go for the 6 speed option or just change clutch & FW and call it a day. However, I don't like the tall 2nd gear.

Staying on topic, I really like my MOMO 350 Tuner wheel with Honda Horn. Though, it is not a mod I wish I did sooner because I did it as soon as I got the car.
 
I finally got my JUN Flywheel from SOS and OEM Twin Disc!! 2.5 months wait....:frown:
 

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I am going to have Ramon doing the Clutch and Flywheel for me. I don't know who else...? Pm me please if you have any other suggestions.

Yes, worth the wait, it is a nice piece flywheel, fresh off their machine. Jun is like made to orders.
 
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