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Another Fork Clutch How to? Am I pulling or Pushing?

EAC

Legendary Member
Joined
26 July 2010
Messages
2,398
Location
Wildwood, MO
Trying to remove tranny, I've pulled and pushed on that stupid clutch fork with no luck. It only moves about a inch.

Which is it? Push or pull? Any other tricks? :mad:
 
OK, now the stupid clutch fork is just wobbling inside the hole like it came loose in there????
 
Instead of internet shopping and Prime browsing, I should be working on my car. I just snapped this pic for you... You need to pull the fork like you are trying to remove it through the casing area. It only moves a bit.

I hope you have a transmission jack to support this thing. Be careful when you try to take the transmission out, and obviously when putting it back in.

IMG_5199.JPG
 
:eek:Thanks, I pulled it and thought I broke it :eek:

No transmission jack. :eek:

Does it take quite a bit of pulling and yanking to get that trans out? I've been working it over for quite some time :redface:
 
I gave up for the day. I just couldn't get it seperated. It's rotating, I just couldn't get it to back off the motor by myself.

Any pointers for tommorow?

I pulled the clutch fork out.
 
If you don't have a helper, I'd get the cheapy HF transmission jack so you can at least remove the weight on the transmission. Then you can focus on separating it from the engine.

You look a little stronger than me, but it still gets awkward and old trying to manhandle everything.

Look at it this way, even if you get it off, the real trick comes when you try to get it all aligned and put back in :wink:

$80 before your 20% off coupon if you've got one nearby:
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html


Yup, it's a fun job.
 
Is there a certain angle I need the engine to be in to make it slide out easier?
 
Is there a certain angle I need the engine to be in to make it slide out easier?

For the first bit - Straight. It helps if you take the weight off of the input shaft by supporting the trans with a jack. Remember that with the mounts on that side removed, all of the weight of the trans is tilting it against the input shaft and causing a lot of friction.

Make sure you got all of the bolts (starter removed etc). This one may sound dumb, but there is always one extra one that you can't see....


I hope you're not trying to bench press this thing. Just don't do it. Get a padded saddle for your jack and use that.

The reason is that there is just not room to pull the trans straight out away from the motor then drop it straight down due to the suspension being in the way. You will need to tilt it, turn it, lower it a little, then tilt it another way, turn it etc as you lower it. It is also a LOT heavier than a standard Honda civic/integra transmission.
 
Guess who's dumb? This guy!

All of that time pushing and pulling and heat stroke.... and what kept the transmission on? The stupid Flywheel Dust Shield. Not once did I read in anyones write up's to remove that! :eek:

Good news, transmission is dropped and rear main seal is replaced.

Bad news, the stock flywheel bolts are too long for my RPS Flywheel.

Hmm....
 
yes you need 1991-1996 flywheel bolts

(8) 90011-PR7-000 BOLT (12MM)

Not bad about $4.00 ea.

Regards,
LarryB
 
yes:)

All the aftermarket clutches use the short ones. They are modeled after the original OEM dual disk flywheel. Only the dual mass flywheels(1997+) use the long ones.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Guess who's dumb? This guy!

All of that time pushing and pulling and heat stroke.... and what kept the transmission on? The stupid Flywheel Dust Shield. Not once did I read in anyones write up's to remove that! :eek:

Good news, transmission is dropped and rear main seal is replaced.

Bad news, the stock flywheel bolts are too long for my RPS Flywheel.

Hmm....

:biggrin: You live, you learn! Just take your time and enjoy!
 
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