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Thread: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

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    Charter Gold R13's Avatar
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    Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Just one fortunately, and I'm glad it happened at an autocross (on my 4th and last run of 5 runs allowed....still won my class by over a second ).

    It looks like it was probably cracked previously given how the lower half looks like it's surface-rusted a bit vs. the grey-coloration on the upper half.



    Given the unknown age and condition of the others, I am probably just going to take the opportunity to replace all 20 at this point.

    What's the common wisdom on replacement studs. OEM, ARP, something else?

    Car is stock motor '92 with KW V3, and right now running Dunlop Z1s. I don't see myself running R-Comps on it anytime soon, no wheel spacers.

    Also recommendations on lug nuts (conical seat for Advan, etc.)? I don't want aluminum as I do have occasion to take the wheels off and on and don't want to fool with the delicacy/expense of an aluminum lug.
    Last edited by R13; 05-06-2012 at 19:57.
    1992 Berlina Black, light mods: 250,000 miles and counting.

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    NSXPrime Gold TURBO2GO's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Arp
    '05 silverstone. CTSC. ARC Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. JRZ Race dampers, Carbon Ceramic BBK.

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    Charter Silver gsrboy's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    ARP for sure.

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    Charter Gold e.pie's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    I did ARP extended studs when mine broke.

    If you do extended you have to grind a little notch in the hub to get the studs in though.


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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    "A little notch?"
    '05 silverstone. CTSC. ARC Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. JRZ Race dampers, Carbon Ceramic BBK.

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    Charter Gold e.pie's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Yes, you can't get the extended studs in without doing it, the hub is in the way.

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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by e.pie View Post
    Yes, you can't get the extended studs in without doing it, the hub is in the way.
    Can you tell me where or clarify with a photo? I am just about to drop ARPs in all around.
    '05 silverstone. CTSC. ARC Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. JRZ Race dampers, Carbon Ceramic BBK.

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    Charter Gold e.pie's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by TURBO2GO View Post
    Can you tell me where or clarify with a photo? I am just about to drop ARPs in all around.
    http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t.../photo_10.html
    Last edited by e.pie; 05-06-2012 at 21:23.

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    NSXPrime Platinum RYU's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by e.pie View Post
    Yes, you can't get the extended studs in without doing it, the hub is in the way.
    I had to do this as well.

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    Charter Patron jorligan's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Same with me. Are you going to change all of them or just the broken one. Removing the front hubs is pretty simple but the rears can be a bear. For the rears, it is easier to leave the hubs on the car and grind away more of the stud head and you can slide it in from the back. You will need open lug nuts, I went with the Dali Titanium lug nuts. Super light and extremely strong.
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    Charter Gold R13's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by jorligan View Post
    Same with me. Are you going to change all of them or just the broken one. Removing the front hubs is pretty simple but the rears can be a bear. For the rears, it is easier to leave the hubs on the car and grind away more of the stud head and you can slide it in from the back. You will need open lug nuts, I went with the Dali Titanium lug nuts. Super light and extremely strong.
    Yeah, I was going to replace all 20. Assuming they're all the same age, if one of them has managed to stress fracture, then the others may not be too far behind.

    If I'm understanding the other posts. If I use OEM or normal-length replacements, no "clearancing" of the hub is necessary. If I go with extended studs, then I would need to do just a bit of grinding though.

    Can this be done without removing the hubs, or is that pretty much a necessity? On my MR2, I just tapped them with a hammer to get them out, and then used a lug nut to pull them in after setting them with a mallet/drift.

    ::EDIT::
    Search PWNS me.
    http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...ht=wheel+studs
    http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fr...stud/studs.htm
    Last edited by R13; 05-07-2012 at 05:22.
    1992 Berlina Black, light mods: 250,000 miles and counting.

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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    I've never been a fan of open lug nuts because of the corrosion that happens when water/grit gets in the open end. 'Screws with the accuracy of the torque figure when tightening them.

    Is that misguided thinking?
    1992 Berlina Black, light mods: 250,000 miles and counting.

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    Registered User Ritesh's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    I had this happen to me while at the track!! 2 studs broke and another was warped and spinning the lug nut. I drove to the local autoparts store and got a bunch of RSX studs and got the local shop to install 3 of them. Got home and did the other 7! I have noticed that it mainly happens on the rear wheels in the NSX. Since then I have been spanking my Miata at the track so I haven't had any issues with the fronts.
    NSXLuvr(McLaren 12C/Maserati GT - Conv/NSX/Spec Miata/Equus/Denali XL)

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    Charter Gold e.pie's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by R13 View Post
    I've never been a fan of open lug nuts because of the corrosion that happens when water/grit gets in the open end. 'Screws with the accuracy of the torque figure when tightening them.

    Is that misguided thinking?
    I don't think that would really be worth worrying about IMO.

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    Registered User etang789's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    What's the ARP part number for the standard length one?

    Does it matter if I have Stoptech or not?

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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    btw.. that stud broke from overtightening, not from a crack. If you overtighten studs even the ARPs will break. Not saying you overtightened but I suspect it was overtightened at some point in its life.

    Open lugs have been fine for me for many many years. I currently use the Alum lugs from Dali and they torque down very well. Didn't require as much retorquing like my steel ones did at the last track event. My guess is that it may expand at the same rate my alum wheels do... who knows.. they work great and are inexpensive.

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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by RYU View Post
    btw.. that stud broke from overtightening, not from a crack. If you overtighten studs even the ARPs will break. Not saying you overtightened but I suspect it was overtightened at some point in its life.
    It wouldn't surprise me if the initial weak point was a result of overtightening, but it did not completely fail until stressed at an autocross. I've only ever tightened them to 85lbs, but I'm sure some mechanic along the way used an air gun to install lugs...

    I may revisit the aluminum lugs, but I've always gotten the impression that they could be fragile from what I've read. I'd like something I could remove with an impact (probably an electric) without worrying about it.
    Last edited by R13; 05-07-2012 at 07:02.
    1992 Berlina Black, light mods: 250,000 miles and counting.

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    Charter Gold e.pie's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...


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    Charter Patron jorligan's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by R13 View Post
    Yeah, I was going to replace all 20. Assuming they're all the same age, if one of them has managed to stress fracture, then the others may not be too far behind.

    If I'm understanding the other posts. If I use OEM or normal-length replacements, no "clearancing" of the hub is necessary. If I go with extended studs, then I would need to do just a bit of grinding though.

    Can this be done without removing the hubs, or is that pretty much a necessity? On my MR2, I just tapped them with a hammer to get them out, and then used a lug nut to pull them in after setting them with a mallet/drift.

    ::EDIT::
    Search PWNS me.
    http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...ht=wheel+studs

    http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fr...stud/studs.htm
    I ended up putting 68 cm ARP in the rear and 50 mm in the front since I needed a 13 mm and 5 mm Spacers to clear my Stoptech brakes. I previously had the Wilwood brakes and a 3 mm spacer was required in the rear and no spacer in the front. I had cut a 68 mm stud to around 50 mm studs in the rear previously and they required grinding to make it D shaped. Grinding of the 68 mm would also have been necessary except I already have the axles out of the car so I took out the hubs. Even then, I still had to grind the slightly to clear. For the rears, if you do it on the car, you will need to grind and fit as you go. For the fronts, remove the hubs, easiest way. I have the rears which I removed, you can have them for the cost of shipping, probably somethin like $5. They are not the same length since I cut a 68 cm ARP but they are longer than stock, only 1 year old and only tighted with a torque wrench, and ready to install. Let me know. I have to make sure that the threads are OK since I just pounded them out. Here is a link to the Dali titanium. Least expensive titanium lug nuts I could find and they are in stock.

    http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/cat...cfm?focus=2664
    98 Lovefab Monte Carlo Blue NSX, 04 Viper Silver Noble M500,05 911 Turbo S Cab,08 Audi Q7-New Hauler
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    Registered User Acura NsX Pilot's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    You were pretty lucky but check out what could have happened

    http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread...ht=wheel+studs

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    Charter Gold R13's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Acura NsX Pilot View Post
    You were pretty lucky but check out what could have happened

    http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread...ht=wheel+studs
    Yup, that's why I was glad this happened at an autocross. Nothing to hit in an empty parking lot, about 60mph tops, and only driving for ~1min at a time.

    The above is also why I'm going to replace all 20 vs. just band-aiding the one. If that one had some funky stress applied at some point, odds are good that the others underwent the same thing.
    1992 Berlina Black, light mods: 250,000 miles and counting.

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    Charter Gold R13's Avatar
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    Re: Broke a wheel stud autocrossing...

    Ok finally back in the 'States.

    I'd just like to confirm that 100-7712 is the correct part# for the ARP extended studs before I order.

    Also, E.PIE. What sort of wheel do you have on your car. I had tried some other lug nuts a while ago and ran into clearance issues with the lug-nut wells on the Advan RZs that I have when trying to use a "normal" socket-drive lug-nut as opposed to something spline drive (which isn't going to happen with an extended stud anyway).

    I suppose I could pick up a thin-wall socket or something as well.
    1992 Berlina Black, light mods: 250,000 miles and counting.

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