A little info i added from my other thread. Added some new info about how i did the finish.
Comptech SC (Whipple) for 3.2
Low boost pulley (91mm)
Belt for (91mm)
Elbow repair kit
Comptech Targa brace (old style)
AEM FI/C 30-1911
FI/C harness adapter
Injectors (RC SL9-0550 550cc)
plug-and-play wire clip (injectors)
SOS Fuel Rail Adaptor
Fuel line fitting (Earl's)
New fuel filter
New oem FPR
Mainly i am going FIC because there have been so many posts about people running lean at the top with the ctsc. I don't want to take the risk because too lean leads to detonation. When you think about it, all the fuel related parts of the kit seem to be like a bandaid, just to make it work. With the FI/C most of those parts won't even be used and the tuner should be able to set it up where going lean at the top is no issue. I chose the FI/C over the stand alone because it keeps the oem computer.
I used one of the calculators and making various changes my requirements should be anywhere from 424cc to 521cc between 40psi- 43.5psi. The 424cc would be at a minimum hp and the 521cc would be at a higher hp then i will actually achieve. So to me, as long as i cover the 521cc i'm good.
Some that i looked at
RDX 500-510cc @ 55-58psi
Have to rule these out because of the high pressure requirement.
ID 725 610cc @ 40psi and 725cc @ 43.5psi
I belive these will be too large for my setup.
RC SL9-0550 550cc @ 43.4psi
These seem to be my only option. Wish i knew what cc they are at around 40psi.
I can't see a reason to raise the fuel pressure when i can use larger injectors at the oem pressure. Having to raise the pressure above oem is basically what the comptech bandaid does, isn't it?
Unless i'm missing something, this is how i think it should look. All the lines are stock except the two dark ones. I don't know if the one i have which is about 24" long with AN both ends will work from rail to filter.
This is how the SC looked when i purchased it. The yellow paint is powdercoat.
I sent the SC to my powdercoater to see if they could remove it since i was having the intake and other parts coated. They tried blasting it with different media but in the end they were only able to get off about 2"x3" area and they actually damaged the finish by keeping it one spot too long. I tried several different paint strippers but the only one that really worked was Klean Strip Premium Stripper gel. Took me about 6 hours of scraping to finally get the powdercoat off.
Paint stripped
Repaired sand blast damage to finish.
The new finish was 5 steps
1. PPG DX533 aluminum cleaner
2. PPG DX503 aluminum conditioner
3. Spray Max Epoxy Primer •Two component
4. Lacquer Paint (Euro Blue/Gray)
5. Spray Max 2K Rapid Cut-In Spot Clearcoat •Two component premium urethane clear coat
The primer and clearcoat are reall cool. They are spray cans with a internal chamber that keeps the paint and hardener separate. Use the special cap on the bottom of the can to puncture the hardener chamber and shake before using.
With flash, brings out the blue
Without flash
Mike
