I agree...a smaller unit would look much better. How would you wire it so you don't have to turn it on and off once you start and shut off the car? Also, brightness will be a factor.
The biggest issue is going to be heat. The iPad and iPhone shut down when hot. 90% of the time it will be to hot for you to use when you first get in the car. How are you going to run the A/c with it integrated if the unit shuts down.
Some People seek Therapy for their obsessions.
I drive mine. 92 Acura NSX...08 Audi S4...02 Campagna T-Rex
I agree...a smaller unit would look much better. How would you wire it so you don't have to turn it on and off once you start and shut off the car? Also, brightness will be a factor.
Right now I download a song when I am traveling in NY, and it is available on my iPad when I get home. I send an email on my iPad, and it is available on my iPhone... Without me doing a thing. I take a photo, and it is available everywhere because of ICloud. If I put some google tablet in there, it will not sync with anything else that I own. And it still suffers from many of the same issues that are around installing an iPad. So for me it is either iPad or iPhone, and because I am not that into modding the *#%^ out of my dash, I think I will probably just stick with my original iPhone plan.
If you decide to make the iPad your CCU, yes. That's just a bad idea and I wouldn't do it anyway. Ventilation for the iPad is no issue, the entire space behind t where the radio, ashtray, CCU used to be is empty. Tons of space for heat sinks, fans, etc. I just know this wouldn't be an issue but you are 100% right on the iPad as CCU thing.
Brightness is not a big factor, the light sensor in the iPad works great and you can manually further adjust it. It wouldn't be blocked nor will the front facing camera. Turning it on and off with the car is an issue, but the power switch is a simple contact closure. A fix can be made.
I wanted to talk about this because many people have talked about it, and it can most certainly be done. If I don't do it, it is because I don't like the high tech look in my dash, not because of a lot of these other reasons which seem to all have some sort of solution.
'05 silverstone. CTSC. Arc Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. KW Competition dampers. Stoptech BBK. VRH lift.
Right now what I have for my iPhone is a magnetic mount that allows me to swivel the unit to any angle, and allows a turn to landscape mode if necessary. The mount itself is magnetic, and pops off to show a perfectly clean dash when off. I have managed to wire a 12V trigger for my amp which "closes" and turns on the amplifier as soon as you attach your phone. And by attach, I mean pop it on the magnet. I hookp up one wire, and it charges and gives me audio and video out. I have two rotary knobs going in the dash where the volume and tune knobs used to be with the radio. One does volume, one will do sub level if I do the sub. I have to see what kind of bass I can get out the doors first because if it's a decent amount all save the driver, box, and amp weight and just throw a tiny amp behind the dash where the radio used to be.
'05 silverstone. CTSC. Arc Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. KW Competition dampers. Stoptech BBK. VRH lift.
My point is about interior heat. Not heat from the unit. They shut down when hot. Unless you put fans on behind it all the time and ventilate your interior with outside air it will shut down on you. Put your Ipad on your dash park your car in the sun you will get what I'm talking about. I have this issue all the time with my Iphone I cant take my phone into work for security reasons. So leaving it in my car all the time it gets so hot it don't work for the first 20 min. Until I hold it up to the A/C vents and it cools enough it will only make emergency phone calls.
It would have to be removable something you can take with you and put into the car when using. Also If you leave it in the car all the time it will be a big theft enticement everyone knows what they are worth.
Some People seek Therapy for their obsessions.
I drive mine. 92 Acura NSX...08 Audi S4...02 Campagna T-Rex
'96 Midnight Pearl/Black
Incoherent ramblings at http://twitter.com/bengl3rt
iPad mini is rumored again to be coming out soon. They have only been wrong 100% of the time on this, but you might want to wait.
Personally I would just do a ddin unit and call it a day. Even if you get an iPad to work you won't be able to see a thing with the glare.
2000 NSX CTSC |1993 NSX Sold | 1995 NSX SC SOLD
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Honestly a double din anything is the last thing I'd get. To me they are archaic pieces of gear that don't really do anything all that well, continuously get outdated, I'd have to carve my dash anyway, I'd give up a volume knob for two minuscule buttons, and they don't save me any weight.... what's the plus other than it "looks cool"? I am not into watching movies in my car, or have some half-ass interface of my iPhone on a seperate display when my actual iPhone is right there in my pocket. I think Bluetooth sucks. I want something SOLID, I don't want to go through "pairing" of items or failure messages everytime I get into the car. I don't want to leave my Bluetooth always on outside the car and allow vulnerability on my phone, or deal with the battery drain. Then there is the whole glare issue in an NSX, nevermind what some of these cost. I just see no positives in an aftermarket double DIN.
'05 silverstone. CTSC. Arc Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. KW Competition dampers. Stoptech BBK. VRH lift.
"Beginners can drive fast in a straight line. Mediocre drivers can master the corners, but truly advance drivers make their own lines to get ahead" -R. Takahashi-
Hi,
yeap.... You remove your CCU assy by removing the 4 screws in the front that attach it to the dash (the same way as the radio), and then, get it out and disconnect the 2 big green plugs on the back.
Then you have your CCU assy in your hands. It's made of 2 pieces: The front face with display and buttons, and the big_long_back part that has the big circuito board inside. The display part is not deep, and you can separate them leaving them only connected by the internal wires, that you can cut and splice to get the display part elsewhere in the car.
I have a spare CCU with a broken display, i can show you some pics in a couple of days
Nuno
Proud owner of 97 NA1 NSX Formula Red coupe
This tweeter, and it is one of the smallest, unfortunately is just a hair too big for vent installation.
My idea of getting deep bass from the woofer is also out the window. This door very bad for a proper speaker fit. All these pre-made panels are not great as far as fit. I have the SOS one which is great in terms of material and build quality, better than MDF, but the panel does not sit flat on the door by any means.
There is way too much space here, it is too much to try to seal with dynamat, too close to the speaker baffle. I have to go with plan B.
On another note, I took the Bose speaker, removed the amp, wired up the driver direct to test, and ran about a 100 watt home amp into it. This is a 1 ohm, heavily EQ'ed driver. On the low end, I was shockingly able to get response down to 45 or so HZ, but I was down something like 15db at that point. But I had this driver moving enough air where the port was fluttering a large piece of paper in front of it like a fan. The high end falls off at around 9Khz... Pretty lousy and probably one reason the thing sounds poor. This is a 901 driver.
I am considering modifying the factory bose housing now, and using a different Woofer that fits. Specifically a 4.5" high excursion aftermarket unit. I think this will give a more even and deeper sound than a 6.5" stuck in the door, even a treated one. Will run more tests today and take more measurements. I am going to just use this thread to continue documenting my whole install. If anyone wants pictures of anything let me know. I am going to try 3 different drivers in the enclosure.
The enclosure itself is set back a ways. The door panel actually covers some of the top of the speaker. It's far from ideal. There is a large "cavity" between the door panel and speaker surface, and it is firing into that and straight into your legs. Using this driver for mid-bass only and moving the upper midrange and highs out is a good idea. A 3 way speaker which I was against in another thread might actually be a good idea in the NSX if you can do it.
'05 silverstone. CTSC. Arc Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. KW Competition dampers. Stoptech BBK. VRH lift.
Wonder if you could make an app to control the climate control.
Theres is no need. You can move the CCU to the glove or center console. It's automatic climate control you really don't need constant fiddling anyway. But this is a moot point now, I just think the iPad is too much work for a result that is not all that much more beneficial than what the iPhone can do.
'05 silverstone. CTSC. Arc Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. KW Competition dampers. Stoptech BBK. VRH lift.
iPads in vehicles has been done by many and all the issues with turning it off and on with ignition have been figured out. The only problem I see is the overall size. If it was a 7" it would be far better. If I were you, I would go back and consider the mimics unit and just stick with your iPhone. You'll get the correct double din size screen with touch functionality and be able to keep the CCU in place.
I fully intend to do the mimics unit when I purchase an NSX. I would put one in my current Jeep, but I have a 1.5 din opening and don't want to reform the dash as my Jeep is a limited production model.
'05 silverstone. CTSC. Arc Titanium. GT1-F1 headers. KW Competition dampers. Stoptech BBK. VRH lift.
Before you count out the iPad in full, the rumormill is really pushing that a smaller iPad is around the corner - http://modmyi.com/content/8140-wsj-a...-new-ipad.html
If they come out with a ~ 7 inch iPad, I'd be really interested if it could be fit into the Honda nav pod. That would be sweet.
I thought u may like to read this.
http://www.vancouversun.com/technolo...524/story.html
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