stock radio does not turn on

The stock radio doesn't turn on. The clock fuse is fine and clock is working.
When I turned on the lights, there climate control unit lid up, but the radio buttons do not. Wife said recently several times the radio turned off on its own while she was driving. The car has an Alpine CD changer and Smartenna. Any ideas? Thanks.

Does the lighter socket work? The clock fuse is for the memory, the head unit gets it's power from fuse #8 in the under dash fuse box which also powers the lighter relay. If the fuse is good the head unit may be shot.

Mike

Yes, the lighter socket works.

Loose connector?

Time to remove the console.
You need to check for a damaged wire or loose plug like CDX said and also check for voltage (bat/grd) at the plug.

This is an area of the car that alot of people modify by adding aftermarket stereo's and unfortunately most of the time they do some damage to the factory wiring so look for damaged wires by a previous owner.



Having electrical modifications is one of the things that would keep me from buying a car but unfortunately most of the time it's hard to see.

Mike

It's failed, see http://www.willmanselectronics.com/ for a repair.

I have the exact same symptoms as the original thread starter. the radio does not power on but the lighter works.

any good place to get started with in order to remove the console without breaking anything?

how much will a repair set me back to get the original speakers and amps refurbished at the above mentioned website?

This will help you get the console apart.

http://nsxe-repair.com/CCUremoval.html

I charge $80 each to rebuild the speaker amps.

Briank said:

This will help you get the console apart.

http://nsxe-repair.com/CCUremoval.html

I charge $80 each to rebuild the speaker amps.

Click to expand...

thank you for the great set of instructions! this is what I found out being out of order. looks factory but is it? it was burnt... why would they make it so hard to reach in order to replace?

I think it has to do with the cd loader in the trunk... radio still does not power on.

I disconnected the din from behind the radio andvi show 11.5V between ground and backup. I get nothing between illuminate and ground however. any other tests I can perform at this point? TIA

Briank said:

This will help you get the console apart.

http://nsxe-repair.com/CCUremoval.html

I charge $80 each to rebuild the speaker amps.

Click to expand...

Brian: Willman's website says there are 3 amps. is the 3trd one in the middle console ? What should I send you ? 3 amps + head unit ? please pm me for details. thanks in advance
alex

P.S. I found the information about 3rd one on your webpage. Great instructions btw ! I still need you to pm me details please

apapada said:

thank you for the great set of instructions! this is what I found out being out of order. looks factory but is it? it was burnt... why would they make it so hard to reach in order to replace?

Click to expand...

That fuse is not stock.

One in each door and one in the sub.

That fuse holder looks aftermarket not oem. I would do more tests and find out what it is powering.

The plug on the back of the radio you should have 12v on the white/yellow stripe and with the key on 12v on the yellow/red stripe. Check for ground on the black and black/light green stripe.

What wire colors does the yellow fuse holder attach?

Mike

comtec said:

One in each door and one in the sub.

That fuse holder looks aftermarket not oem. I would do more tests and find out what it is powering.

The plug on the back of the radio you should have 12v on the white/yellow stripe and with the key on 12v on the yellow/red stripe. Check for ground on the black and black/light green stripe.

What wire colors does the yellow fuse holder attach?

Mike

Click to expand...

i checked white/yellow it s always hot
yellow/red is hot with key on and not when key off
both black and black/light green are good grounds.

the fuse may be related to the alpine cd changer. yellow fuse is hacked onto the white/yellow. the 2 other aftermarket wires with the fuse are one on the black and the other on the yellow/red. i think they power the little alpine box that has been added in there (loose mounted btw)
i found a local stereo shop which will diagnose the head unit for $40. but i have a feeling they may just tell me it s dead and try to sell me a +$2k stereo system what do you all think?

If you have power and ground on those leads at the head unit connector and it doesn't power on, the head unit is probably gone bad. I believe the head units suffer from the same bad capacitors as the speaker amps. There is a company that repairs them but not sure who it is. Maybe someone can post a link to them.

Mike

Briank said:

It's failed, see http://www.willmanselectronics.com/ for a repair.

Click to expand...

This is the place. They should be able to fix the radio and the prices seem very resonable.

http://www.willmanselectronics.com/nsx.htm

maybe someone from your neck of the wood could lend you their working unit so you can either rule out if its the head unit or wiring. just a thought.

Hello, my after market head unit just stopped working after working for years,. I checked the wires as listed above . My red/yellow has 12v when key is on but like 1v on the white /yellow when in aux or on. I checked all the foot well panel on drivers side, any place else I can check. Thanks everyone.

Possible blown fuse? Have you check that?

From what I can find on the net the fuse is in the foot well and I checked all of those already, any others I'm missing?

Bump for help

There is no way that anybody can help you with an aftermarket head unit without pin-outs specific to your head unit. I have attached the pin-out for the NSX body harness plug for the OEM head unit. Hopefully, your install used an interposing adapter harness plugged into the OEM connector. Find the connector, separate it and then with the ignition switched to on, use a multimeter to check for +12v on the wht/yel (fuse #33 ) and yel/red (fuse #10 ). If you have +12 v on those pins, then something is likely wrong with you head unit. If you don't have +12 v, then first thing is to check the fuses.

Also, check for the ground connection on the blk/lt grn wire.

Thanks for the pin out old guy. I have checked for 12v on the yellow/red & white/yellow (see previous post) my white/yellow only had like 1v but 12v on the yellow/red. I looked at all the fuses in the foot well and all look good, I didn't test them just looked for the broken contact in the middle. My head unit had a small fuse in the back and it looked good also. Any other fuses anywhere else I can check that I'm missing?

I am assuming that you are measuring the voltages on wht/yel with the plug disconnected from the head unit. Normally you would have +12 v on wht/yel if the fuse is good and you would have 0 v if the fuse failed. Make sure that your multimeter isn't flakey because reading 1 volt is not good. If the #33 fuse is good its a sign that you likely have a really bad connection somewhere between the fuse box and the plug for the head unit. If the #33 fuse has blown and you are measuring 1 volt, you are likely picking up the voltage from some kind of short to an adjacent wire.

If your head unit was wired up like the OEM head unit, switched power comes in on yel/red. Wht yel is constant power for the presets. Normally the absence of constant power will not stop the unit from operating, you just lose your presets; but, your unit may be different. Wht/yel is supplied from fuse #33 . The fusible element in blade style fuses is a U shaped piece of metal. When the fusible element blows, it frequently blows in the center (top of the U) and is visible; but, they can also blow on the side legs of the U and may not be visible from the top. Pull the #33 fuse and check the fuse for continuity. If the fuse tests good, use your voltmeter to test for voltage in the #33 socket in the fuse box. There should be 12 v on one of the legs. If there isn't (you have 0 or 1 volt), you have problems upstream of the fuse box, which would be rare. If you have 12 volts at the #33 fuse, plug the fuse in and check for voltage on wht/yel at the head unit plug. If you have 12 v at the fuse box, a good fuse and 0 or 1 volt at the head unit plug you have a broken wire or really bad connection somewhere between the head unit plug and the fuse box.

The #10 and #33 fuses and the yel/red and wht /yel wires are the only 12 volt sources on the head unit plug. Fuse #51 supplies the OEM door amps and sub woofer amps; but, the power for the amps does not come anywhere near the head unit plug. Does your head unit use the OEM amps or does it have an external amp that provides a 12 v supply back to the head unit? If so, where does that aux amp get its power?

Did you check to make sure that the blk wire in the plug is grounded?