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High RPM?

BATMAN - a couple of questions regarding your build:

1. Did you utilize any special finishes (WPC, DLC, etc.), or just the ceramic coating? And what specifically did you coat - the combustion chambers, and what else?

2. Did your engine builder tell you anything about using a thinner oil? My builder is telling me that after my build, I will be able to run a 0w20 to free up a few more horses.
 
there was no discussions about thinner oil since i was the one with more knowledgebase. for 2618 alloy i didnt think thinner oil made sense since the pistons are contracted when cold and that there would be more oil loss and less protection before warming up.

what do those coating mean? wpc?
 
WPC is a metal treatment - it's essentially a nano-level type of shotpeening with a proprietary powder. End product is a surface finish that is very smooth.

DLC stands for diamond-like coating. It has the lowest coefficient of friction of any available coating, but it's very expensive.
 
there was no discussions about thinner oil since i was the one with more knowledgebase. for 2618 alloy i didnt think thinner oil made sense since the pistons are contracted when cold and that there would be more oil loss and less protection before warming up.

what do those coating mean? wpc?

Billy likes it and its good stuff....uber JDM Batmans:biggrin:
they can do that in Torrance.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126591
 
WPC is a metal treatment - it's essentially a nano-level type of shotpeening with a proprietary powder. End product is a surface finish that is very smooth.

DLC stands for diamond-like coating. It has the lowest coefficient of friction of any available coating, but it's very expensive.

Since my pistons were custom made for my specs based on current engine boost/power requirements and room for growth down the line Wiseco had http://polydyn.com/ do the piston face, side skirts, oil shedding coatings and anodized ring lands.
 
bump for fun.

Who turns over 8,500rpm?

I'm right at 8500, but with the following:
Oem valve train but brand new components (springs, retainer, locks)
Ati harmonic dampener
Custom dry sump so I don't need to worry about oem oil pump cavitation
A custom semi sequential semi compounded turbo setup to support a 2pr between 2500-8500 rpms

I'm with Larry Widmore though... Rpm stands for ruining people's motors.
 
I was watching an old F1 documentary last night on the old Cosworth turbo I-4 engines. They were revving to 10.5k rpm and how they were going thru motor after motor during testing. It was heartbreaking seeing all that damage time after time but learning how they thought thru and examined the post mortem damages was fascinating. RPM is a killer
 
bump for fun.

Who turns over 8,500rpm?

Stock fuel cut is 8300 rpm so I doubt that just over 8000 will cause the oil pump gears to crack if so then we would have seen hundreds of cases, plus the old chips that people ran that gave an extra 250 rpm. Never heard of any failure from those (I had one back in the day and ran it for years). All the oil pump failures I've ever heard on prime were due to the money shift.
 
Seems like a good number of NA builds lean toward boring out and/or stroking for larger displacement (a good way to build torque and hp). But has anyone tried making a high rpm/high compression build? Even at 9000 RPM the piston speed is not even close to what an S2000/s (4605 ft/min vs 4965 ft/min AP1), so I don't see it as stressing the internals too bad. So assuming one were to balance/blueprint the internals, use lighter high comp pistons, stay at 3.0 (to keep moving mass down), and of course all the appropriate head work, one could produce an awesome revving engine. Obviously the challenge would be head flow near the top end but if one could keep even keep 200 ft/lb at 9k that would yield 343hp (and not to mention an awesome noise!). Thoughts on this? Would valve float be an issue? How high of compression could you go on e85 (13.5:1?/14:1?)? Could this be done reliably? Just throwing ideas around :)

I see most responses look at getting more air in reliably - more flow, etc. I had seen (back in old days) various tuner events where someone comes along and turns his/her B series to 10k. A look at parts catalogs show the cam companies are "ready"; higher rate springs, higher rate springs with damping.

Ignition - I'm thinking direct coils to reduce crossfire that could happen with any sort of ignition cables.

The biggest worries I see are vibration based. Imbalance is a big deal at these speeds. Rods will need stronger bolts. Bearings could get damaged from imbalance. Oil and water cavitation is a certainty - liquids flowing in a pump at those speeds will almost certainly develop gas/air locking. Take a lesson from our stock car buddies and use external oil and water pumps.

Good luck guys!

Kyle

- - - Updated - - -

Seems like a good number of NA builds lean toward boring out and/or stroking for larger displacement (a good way to build torque and hp). But has anyone tried making a high rpm/high compression build? Even at 9000 RPM the piston speed is not even close to what an S2000/s (4605 ft/min vs 4965 ft/min AP1), so I don't see it as stressing the internals too bad. So assuming one were to balance/blueprint the internals, use lighter high comp pistons, stay at 3.0 (to keep moving mass down), and of course all the appropriate head work, one could produce an awesome revving engine. Obviously the challenge would be head flow near the top end but if one could keep even keep 200 ft/lb at 9k that would yield 343hp (and not to mention an awesome noise!). Thoughts on this? Would valve float be an issue? How high of compression could you go on e85 (13.5:1?/14:1?)? Could this be done reliably? Just throwing ideas around :)

I see most responses look at getting more air in reliably - more flow, etc. I had seen (back in old days) various tuner events where someone comes along and turns his/her B series to 10k. A look at parts catalogs show the cam companies are "ready"; higher rate springs, higher rate springs with damping.

Ignition - I'm thinking direct coils to reduce crossfire that could happen with any sort of ignition cables.

The biggest worries I see are vibration based. Imbalance is a big deal at these speeds. Rods will need stronger bolts. Bearings could get damaged from imbalance. Oil and water cavitation is a certainty - liquids flowing in a pump at those speeds will almost certainly develop gas/air locking. Take a lesson from our stock car buddies and use external oil and water pumps.

Good luck guys!

Kyle
 
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