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ABS system upgrade

Joined
16 July 2008
Messages
3,002
Location
Noord Holland, The Netherlands
Hi Guys,

First of all,
As many of you know the 90-00 ABS system is a heavy outdated system that often develops age related problems.

Solution,
Many of you have upgraded to 01-05 digital system.
We offer both regular and Type-R ABS system upgrades.

On the race car we are going to remove the complete ABS system (NA1) and hydraulically balance the car.

(Save weight, keep it simple, have full control)

Evolution,
This is what i really want to discuss here, would there be interest in a digital system with different bias?
So that the modulator works differently e.g. have a inbuilt tendency to bias the car more forward, for example to work with your different tire or brake setup.

I've done research into this on a other project, it can be done though not a cheap modified modulators are going to run upwards of $1500
Although the improvement over a NSX-R system for a stock NSX won't be significant as the NSX-R unit is designed for a balanced more aggressive setup around a NA2 system with aggressive pads.

But BBK users and people tracking there NSX might have different wishes.
 
...On the race car we are going to remove the complete ABS system (NA1) and hydraulically balance the car.

(Save weight, keep it simple, have full control) .

This is the system I want to hear about!

I am debating pedal box with dual master cylinders for the brakes or just removing the ABS and adding proportioning valve for in-car bias adjustment...?
 
This is the system I want to hear about!

I am debating pedal box with dual master cylinders for the brakes or just removing the ABS and adding proportioning valve for in-car bias adjustment...?
Pedal box is a idea, will require some fab getting it mounted and aligned comfortably.
Deleting the old system and running a bias valve is a other idea, a lot simpler and cheaper.

What kind of setup are you running?
 
Agreed for a road car however I feel ABS definitely has no place on a track car...
I agree only if the car has stock brakes (or a proper piston sizes front and rear in a bbk-rare), a proportioning valve or twin master cylinder setup with proper front and rear pad selections, and a good driver. For 99% of the track day people out there, the newer abs system would be faster, more forgiving, confidence inspiring, and safer option.

0.02
 
My track only NSX has stock calipers with upgraded lines/pads/fluid and removed ABS. I LOVE the feeling and was glad to ditch the weight.

My simi built DD RSX has the large Stoptech BBK and ABS, I track it occasionally and have unplugged the ABS fuse to see how it feels.-ABS to no ABS on stock calipers was awesome. ABS to no ABS with BBK felt 'top heavy' and was a much finer line between threshold and lock up. I absolutely love the ABS in the newer acuras you can dive in super deep and it sorts it out
 
detail%201.jpg

ABS delete system.

CNC'd 1/2 inch aluminum with interchangeable brass fittings.
Connected to the master cylinder with 2>4 spliters, bolts right on to the OEM hard lines, also uses OEM ABS bracket and mounts.

Car will will be running StopTech Trophy's later on so the system is pre-balanced with piston sizing in the calipers.
I've have unfinished prototype with integrated in biasing for each caliper, suitable for cars with offset brakes or Brembo style unbalanced systems.
 
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I'm curious to see how much your abs delete kit is.
 
With any brake upgrade, there's going to be a need to "re-balance" the system. Without it you'll feel way too much ABS "pulsing" in the pedal. Typically, a proportioning valve is needed to restrict pressure to the rear. Unfortunately, the NSX brakes are "cross" circuited (diagonal corners are on the same circuit) so that any failure will not result in a total loss of either both fronts or both rears. A standard prop valve will not work on a cross system. However, by modifying certain mechanical components within the antilock brake system and with some creative re-configuration of the brake lines I was able to convert the system to a conventional circuit (fronts/rears isolated). I could then install a normal proportioning valve in the rear circuit. I initially set my bias with the ABS system disabled so that the front tires locked up first, then did some track testing. After everything was set, I'd re-enable the antilock system. It's a good system and doesn't need to over-modulate the rears since I re-balanced the brakes. Other "big brake" kits can't do this so the antilock system is constantly modulating giving poor feel to the pedal.
 
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