You all know that there is no need to hardwire a V1 anymore. They make a product called the "Savvy". It plugs into the OBD port to give power to the unit and then you just run the cord to where you want to mount the V1. It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes from start to finish. I've done it in three of my cars already.
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DIY: Radar Detector Hardwire Installation into Acura NSX-T
- Thread starter scorp965
- Start date
Yep, my car looks exactly like in the photo. I also used the top screw (not that it would make a difference I think). Tested both with a voltmeter after, no go. Oh well, not a big deal I suppose!
This thread is also being used as a source of info for power hookups for other devices - in my case a Nexus 7
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just did this on my '02 - thank you for the write-up! engine bay fuse box was different - couldn't find "accessory fuse" so just moved on; driver's side fuse box connection is the same...it's killer on your back trying to get things wired up in there.
very weird thing happens to me with the ground...i'm using the screw on the plate that the fuse box cover latches to for the ground - works fine w/o fuse box cover (interior); when i go to lock the latch, i lose the ground. tried both screws - same thing. the latching mechanism must be just enough to disconnect the ground. can't find a better option right now so just leaving the cover in the glove box.
very weird thing happens to me with the ground...i'm using the screw on the plate that the fuse box cover latches to for the ground - works fine w/o fuse box cover (interior); when i go to lock the latch, i lose the ground. tried both screws - same thing. the latching mechanism must be just enough to disconnect the ground. can't find a better option right now so just leaving the cover in the glove box.
Running the savvy via obd port on a 93 should work then? It says on v1s page 96 or newer?
I do not believe any car below 96 would have the obd2 port. It wont work on 93.
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This is a Quick DIY for Hardwiring a Radar Detector Power Cord into your NSX's Accessory Port Location on the Driver's Footwell Fuse Box. The process takes about 15-20 minutes, and is pretty straight forward:
1. First, Check your Main Fuse Box in the Engine Bay to ensure the Accessory Ports have been activated, by inserting a fuse into Position #17:
2. Next, Remove the Driver-Side Lower Kick Panel for Better Access to the Footwell Fuse Box, this is held in place by (2) Phillips Screws on the front, the rear is held in place by two plastic pins, covered in rubber bumpers:
3. Disconnect the two plastic connectors and place the panel aside; don't lose the rubber pin bumpers (or it will rattle):
4. Insert the Positive Cable end into Position C911, it's the 2nd connector out of the four. If your cable does not have a female spade connector you will need to crimp on one first, this position on your fuse panel provides power when the car is turned on, so it's ideal for accessories like a Radar Detector:
5. The metal surrounding the fuse box can be used for the negative terminal on the cable, I like to use the existing trim screw to hold this in place, so no modification to the car is necessary.
First slide the negative terminal under the plastic:
Ensure it's centered over the hole, and reinsert the trim screw:
6. At this point it's a good idea to connect your radar detector, and turn on the car, to ensure your power connections are working. Next we're going to run the wire so it's hidden from view:
Remove the Driver-Side A-Pillar Garnish, and use a coat hanger or weighted string to run the wire up through the lower hole. The Pillar Garnish snaps into place, but be careful removing it:
7. Remove the Driver-Side Visor:
8. With the visor removed, you can pull the headliner down, to tuck your wire into place.
First, Determine how much wire you need exposed, then tie a double-knot into the wire:
9. Next, Pull the headliner down, and tuck the hardwire into the gap. Make sure the knot is under the headliner:
Connect the wire to your detector, and reinstall the panels. The headliner is secured by the visor, and the A-Pillar Garnish snaps back into place.
I like to tuck the excess wire under the a-pillar garnish, where it's hidden from view:
The finished product, Detector turns on and off with the car, and there are no visible wires:
Is it possible to fix the links please...
Just installed my V1 using this guide. Thanks for the help! I will say that it took me about 1 hour to do. Mostly because getting under the dash is a tight fit. If I had any advice I would say to make sure you have a proper headlamp and make sure you fish the cord for the v1 from the bottom up through the A pillar. Going the opposite way will prove to be futile. Thanks again everyone for the help. The only question I would have is what is the proper size of female connector to the kick panel fuse box? If just doesn't seem to fit exactly how I would like.
Is it possible my wires are defective? Used port 2 and 4 and nothing. Nevermind. That ground location is no good for me... Strange. Anyway... Good to go
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I have an 03 and the OBDII port blocks the entry and it's a bitch to get to the c911 port. Anyway, I finally tap into it but it has no power. I use the same ground shown above and I have a fuse in the #17 engine bay fuse box like above. I also check with a volt meter and it shows no juice. The only difference I see here is that my owner's manual fuse box doesn't show a #17 fuse spot but the spot is there and that's what I used. Is it something I'm doing wrong that causing no power? My connect is correct as far as I know, I think something is causing the power not to come in and it might be where I put the fuse. Can someone verify that the same location for the fuse (7.5 amp, #17 ) is correct for 2003 and earlier models? Help, please!
From my 03 owner's manual, no mention of #17 fuse in the engine bay. Just a blank spot next to #12 . Am I doing this right, totally confused now!
From my 03 owner's manual, no mention of #17 fuse in the engine bay. Just a blank spot next to #12 . Am I doing this right, totally confused now!
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Lamchop168,
That's really strange looking, never looked at my 02 owners manual.
Mike
Here is the ETM which is different.
That's really strange looking, never looked at my 02 owners manual.
Mike
Here is the ETM which is different.
I fished my wire from the top - taped it to a coat hanger with bright blue tape and had my son wiggle it around from the top until I could see it and grab it. I had the headliner out and so threaded some of the cord through holes in the roof/header (91 coupe). Would really like to see the original photos.... (
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Could somebody put the pictures back up? I am a visual learner and a radar detector is a must in this car. I got pulled over for going 79 in a 75 one hour after buying my NSX. I was obviously singled out as there were cars passing me. I'd rather not deal with that again, lol. Thanks!
Use the Waze app on your smartphone, it's saved me many, many times (user reported police locations)
+1 on Waze. Unbelievably good during the day. A bit less so at night (because people often do not see the police cars to tag), but still very reliable.
Just what we need, another reason for people to be gazing at their stupidphones, instead of paying attention to their driving while they're speeding. I'll stick to my detectors.
You don't have to gaze at your phone. Just set it for alerts before you drive- mine is hooked up to the factory radio so I get audio alerts. Between waze and my v1 I feel pretty bulletproof
No looking at stupidphones.
Phone stays in my pocket. Sees the car's Bluetooth and automatically starts the waze app, the Spotify app, and connects to Bluetooth.
I drive, music plays, waze alerts me by voice to police, traffic, stopped vehicles, and other road hazards.
Sounds good. I was talking to a buddy who has the app, but apparently hardly anybody around here uses it, so it is pretty much useless in this area. Maybe down the road it will catch on here. I need all the help I can get. 50 kms over the posted limit is a $2500.00 fine and your car is gone for a week.
+1, definitely use both. Most of the time down here the cops don't even have radar on, so Waze could be a bad thing with a lot of false alarms. Haven't tried it though. Regardless, I would never give up my detectors. People laugh when they see an 8500 in our Prius......
Honestly I lost my speeding bug after my last ticket. I use waze mostly for the other road hazards and I keep the x50 on mostly out of habit and for curiosity's sake.
Happy not to have had any violations for 3+ years. Makes for great insurance rates.
Happy not to have had any violations for 3+ years. Makes for great insurance rates.
Is it worth it to have a radar detector these days? I use Waze but saw on Amazon the IRAD200. I have a SOS console and a magnetic mount for my iPhone.
If I were to get the IRAD200 I could hardwire it and interface with it via bluetooth. What do you think?
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If I were to get the IRAD200 I could hardwire it and interface with it via bluetooth. What do you think?
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Just watched a video of the IRAD200. If you have a tablet mounted in the pod it would be useful especially for the price.
My recommendation is a Valentine 1. Best radar detector on the market. Price is 400, and if you decide to sell they will almost always bring 300+ used.
My recommendation is a Valentine 1. Best radar detector on the market. Price is 400, and if you decide to sell they will almost always bring 300+ used.
Waze won't alert you to highway patrol that is currently moving. It's only reported once they have pulled over (likely to give a ticket). Therefore, you are still at risk. The radar detector will provide alerts that Waze could not, and if you use the Escort Live app with the service, it will further protect you, since all alerts from other members who are active on the network are automatically updated on your app map, even alerting you of moving highway patrol.
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For what it's worth the cigarette lighter wires work great for a switched power source, as well.
