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Any way to bypass window control unit on a 1991?

Joined
16 October 2008
Messages
1,869
Location
St. Louis
Both my windows won't operate. I've tested all grounds (G201, G401, G402), switches, relays, fuses and the control unit. The manual says that if all input tests on the control unit prove OK then replace the control unit. But the manual also says the control unit only controls the drivers door window and both of my windows don't work - hmmm? My control unit has 2 plugs that go into it, 1 has 4 wires the other has 6 wires. I was hoping someone has bypassed this unit for testing before I replace it. There are so many possible failure points with these windows I'm reluctant at this point to replace anything because I really can't be sure due to not finding any faults in my testing.
TIA!
 
Check with Kaz at NSXCB and i'm sure he'll set you straight.
He does post here but I don't know how often he checks in at Prime.

Cheers
nigel
 
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One can never overstate the obvious, so here goes:
have you checked the window lock switch on the driver door?
 
I'll make a rash assumption that the wiring didn't change from the '95/'96 model year, for which I have the ETM (electrical troubleshooting manual). PM me with your email address & I can send you scans of the relevant diagrams. We can then discuss and I'll make suggestions of what voltage to apply where to make it work.
Do you have a DMM (digital multimeter) to measure, volts, ohms, etc?
 
I downloaded the WIKI service manual here and it has many tests for this problem. I have performed them all and can't seem to locate any failure. Pretty frustrating and inconclusive so far (just getting to G201 is a PITA). The manual states that if all tests on the control unit come back OK, then replace the control unit. I have bought a "tested good" used control unit from eBay (if it doesn't fix the problem I can make it a loaner to this site - they are fairly exspensive from the dealer). I do have multi-meters (both digital and analog). I appreciate your help on this and will PM my email.
Thanks again -
 
Hi, pgilliam1.
I was under the impression that NSX Prime was going through major restructuring as I couldn’t see the usual forum in my mobile phone until I scroll down a bit to reach the ‘First Generation NSX’ area.

Any way, it is unusual for both windows to suddenly stop working and sounded like you have loose connection at the driver door window switch module or faulty integrated control unit (please note that this is different from the power window control unit) but the answer to following questions and checks would help us in supporting you.

I'm afraid at this stage, you can ignore the power window (p/w) control unit especially if you can’t operate the passenger window.

Although I'm based in UK which is mainly RHD NSX, I'm using the word 'driver' and 'passenger' as if I'm drivng the LHD model.
Please do not confuse the integrated control unit with the p/w control unit. They are two different things.
The integrated control unit is located at the fuse panel at the driver foot area.
The p/w control unit is located at the door panel behind the door card.


1. Passenger window sw
Can you operate the passenger window using the switch located at the passenger door while the ‘MAIN’ sw located on the driver door in 'ON' position?

As you mentioned, the p/w control unit only affects the driver window and not the passenger one.
Also, the power line to the passenger window switch located at the passenger door is spliced before reaching the driver side so it has its own power line and the only thing shared between the two sides is the GND circuit through the ‘MAIN’ and Pass switches located on the driver switch module.

So, if you can’t operate the passenger window using the switch located on the passenger door panel, then the chances are;
you don’t have the +12V (fuse, p/w relay or integrated control unit)
you don’t have the GND circuit (bad connection under the driver window switch, faulty passenger and/or driver window switch)
or your passenger window regulator motor is faulty.
If you removed your door card, you can easily check the motor by applying the power to it but for the time being, not required.

2. Power line
When you carried out the input test on the p/w control unit, did you see +12V at the White/Yellow wire on the 6pin connector?
This is important to confirm that your p/w relay and the integrated control unit are operating fine.

If you didn’t check this, you can do so if your driver side door card is still off or you can simply go to the pentagonal main relay box under the bonnet and check the voltage at the two 20A fuses for each window.
When your IG key is in ‘On’ position, you should see 12V at these two fuses.
If not, you have problem with the p/w relay, integrated control unit or the fuse.

3. Driver side switch module
If you have basic electronics knowledge and workshop manual, then you will understand how the passenger side window operates using the driver switch module.
With the circuit diagram on the manual, you can check the power line and also the GND circuit for the passenger window.

For example, you should see 12V at the Blue/Black and White/Yellow cables at the driver door switch module when the IG key is in ‘ON’ position.

Black cable should be always at the GND level and without operating the switch, you should see GND level at the Blue/Green and Blue/Yellow cables.
If not, you have broken GND circuit somewhere between the driver and passenger window circuits.


Also, please check the condition of the each female and male terminals inside the connector at the switch module as well as on the wiring side.
On some of the NSX, I noticed broken contact plate inside the female terminal especially on the door lock/unlock switch.


I have seen the integrated control module to fail resulting in no rear defogger operation but everything else were operating fine.
Very rare case but it is one of the possibility because if it fails, it won't switch on the p/w relay resulting in no power to both windows.


I think this is enough to start with.

Kaz
 
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Kaz - THX for the excellent test procedures. I did perform all the tests you mention and found all to test OK. I did not know about the rear defogger being affected by the control unit though. I should have mentioned that the car has an aftermarket alarm (it was on the car when I bought it), sorry I didn't. After all tests came back OK and I replaced the control unit with a known good unit with still no window operable, I moved to testing the alarm wiring. The alarm was working as it should except for the window operation (the alarm is connected to every function on this car). I finally traced the alarm wiring coming through the bulkhead and going into the main fuse panel. I traced a single 20 gauge wire to a ground screwed to a hole drilled into the bulkhead behind the relay panel and found it oxidized. I cleaned the connector and moved the wire to a better location. That did it.

A special thanks to member Ftuhy. He took the time to email me detailed wiring schematics of all window functions.

To try and reciprocate for the help I received in this matter, I would like to donate a (known good) loaner window control unit (RK-0029) for members here. This is the only part in diagnosing window problems that the manual says to replace if all tests are good (follow Kaz's testing procedures first). Please use this part for testing only and not replacement. Once your tests are confirmed please list the part as available and ship the part to other members at their request. PM me with your shipping address and I will send it to you.

The NSX is truely a special car and NSXPrime members have helped me enjoy it so much more. Thanks to you all!
 
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Hi, pgilliam1.
I’m glad that you managed to fix your issue.

Depending on the security device spec, it will try to close both windows and will do all sorts of other features when arming the system or under certain conditions so I’m not surprised that it was the cause of your issue.

For your reference, the control unit that I mentioned in my post is not the same one as the p/w control unit.

It is the integrated control unit located on the fuse panel at the driver (left side) foot area.
In case someone re-visits this thread in the future, I have added extra info to my original post.

Kaz
 
Kaz, what does the integrated control unit look like? I never came across it in any of my tests and I had to remove that fuse panel to get to G201.
 
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Hi, pgilliam1.

The feature of the Integrated Control Unit (ICU) is different depending on the country spec.
The internal circuit board design is also different and thus, the wiring pin out is also different so please take these points into consideration.

Following photos are from the RHD model so the surrounding area looks different from your LHD one but the ICU itself should look the same.




IMG_3540.JPG

Not great photo but it’s the black plastic case at the left edge of this photo.
Located directly on that fuse panel above the multiple fuses.





IntegratedControlUnitUkJdm01.JPG


IntegratedControlUnitUkJdm02.JPG

The ICU difference between JDM (01) and UK (E) spec.





ICU001.jpg

You can find the ICU in the 'Body Electrical' section of the Workshop manual as well.


Kaz
 
Kaz, I don't know anyone that has posted such explicit replies to posts as you, they're great! I saw that unit but never was directed to test it. Mine has "An eternal sports mind for you" written on it.
Thanks Again -
 
hello, can you PLEASE make a HQ picture for me of the cabin fuse box realy? :) (FULL EU model 1991)
Mine is so burnt I can't tell what kind of resistor was there :(
My tempomat and horn both dead because of this. And when anyone have a detailed schematics or something that would help me too! :)

280362082_10224806022110796_4245155329590733598_n.jpg
 
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