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Climate Control Blower Fan Stopped

Joined
15 November 2007
Messages
644
Location
Honolulu, HI
So my fan for my Climate Control stopped working. It won't blow in any position. I've already read all of the posts about when it only blows when fan is on High, but my won't blow air at all. I had a spare CCU unit, so I replaced my CCU and it does the same thing.
When I push "AC ON" I can hear the condenser fan working, and also when I press "Recycle Air" I can hear it moving the panel, but no matter what, no air is being pushed out.

I checked all fuses in engine bay and front main fuse box, including blower motor fuse, all good.

Any ideas before I pull the entire blower motor out?

THanks.,
 
Put an ohmeter between the blower motor lead and ground. If resistance is greater than a few ohms, the motor is bad. You could also put a voltmeter to the harness side of the lead and check for 12 volts DC (on high) for good measure.
miner
 
Put an ohmeter between the blower motor lead and ground. If resistance is greater than a few ohms, the motor is bad. You could also put a voltmeter to the harness side of the lead and check for 12 volts DC (on high) for good measure.
miner

Thank you for the suggestions, I will try both of these tomorrow.
 
I had this issue once upon a time. I ended up pulling out the entire blower assembly and giving it a good cleaning. Inclusive to the contacts and armature. Greased the bearings and it worked like new. Haven't had an issue since.
 
So I replaced the entire blower fan including resistor and it didn't work. Where do the 3 plugs that are NOT attached to the blower fan attached to? Maybe the plug is bad on that side.
 
When you say resistor, do you mean transistor? I assume so since the blower wiring diagram does not show any resistors in the blower circuit.

According to the wiring diagram, the blower high relay by-passes the power transistor on the high setting, so, if the blower does not operate on the high setting, then it is not a failed transistor. Since you have done a complete motor and transistor transplant, you have probably already ruled out the transistor (and blower) as your problem.

My first suggestion is, with the ignition switch in the run position (to provide +12V to the CCU), check for +12v (measure relative to some ground connection on the body) at the blue / red wire on the blower motor. If you have +12V here, then you have a failed climate control unit, or a bad connection somewhere between the blower, the CCU and ground. To confirm this, connect awire from the black /blue wire on the blower motor to ground. The blower should run at top speed. If it does, then you know that one of those items is causing the problem.

If you do the preceding test and you don’t get +12v on the blue /red wire on the blower motor, first thing is to check fuse 28 (30A) and fuse 4 (15A). If both of those fuses are fine, about the last thing left is the blower relay. Find the blower relay (can’t remember where it is) and check for +12V (to ground) on the blue/ white wire. If fuse 28 is good, then you pretty much haveto have 12v at this point. If you have +12V here, try jumpering the blue / white wire to the blue / red wire on the relay. This by-passes the relay contact and should apply +12V directly to the blower motor. With the blower setting on high, it should run at top speed. If it does, then the blower relay is likely faulty or there is a bad connection to the blower relay.

I have attached the wiring diagram for the blower motor for reference. Good luck with it! My neck aches in sympathy (I hate working under the dash!)
 
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Thank you for all of your help. I followed your instructions and determined it was a loose wire in the relay box. Tightened the wires and it worked great. Bought a new relay and going to install once it arrives just to be safe. Thanks again Old GUy!
 
Thank you for all of your help. I followed your instructions and determined it was a loose wire in the relay box. Tightened the wires and it worked great. Bought a new relay and going to install once it arrives just to be safe. Thanks again Old GUy!

Got a pic of what wire that is?
 
Thank you for all of your help. I followed your instructions and determined it was a loose wire in the relay box. Tightened the wires and it worked great. Bought a new relay and going to install once it arrives just to be safe. Thanks again Old GUy!

Loose or intermittent connections are just about the worst electrical problem to diagnose. Glad it worked out for you.
 
Excuse me for bringing this old thread as I am facing the same issue. No blower at any setting, but condensers and compressor all work fine and I can get cold air if I set to outside air inlet and drive at high speed.

My blower motor does not blow. I have done the following checks:
- checked both fuses while removed also by continuty, continuty ok
- blu/wht to ground voltage with igintion on, voltage found
- ylw/blk to ground voltage with ignition on, voltage found
- powered the blower relay and checked continuty, continuty ok
- blu/red to ground voltage with ignition on, voltage found

- next step in manual says to give power from battery to blu/red ground to blu/blk, which does not make sense because the blower 2p is disconnected, however I did as mentioned but does not run blower. Instead I tried to give power to the blower wires connector side and the blower ran succesfully at full speed.

-next step says to jumper the blu/blk wire to ground but blower motor does not run.
-i tried next step jumper blu/blk to blk wire but blower still does not run

-measured ylw/blk to ground voltage, found ok

-removed ccu and jumpered orn/wht to ground but still blower does not run


Now to things which I tried and not mentioned in service manual:
- battery to fuse 30A voltage ok, fuse to ground voltage ok, blu/wht coming from fuse box at relay connector voltage ok
- blu/red from relay to 2p connector continuty ok
- ylw/blk to ground voltage ok. ylw/blk continuty from relay connector to ccu 30p ok for both relays connectors
- orn/wht continuty from relay connector to ccu 30p ok also
- blk to ground for both relays connectors found ok
- light grn/blk continuty from 3p connector to ccu 30p ok also
- blk pins 24 & 25 of ccu 30p to ground found ok.

- continuty of blu/blk wire from any point to another no contintuy was found. this one of things I suspect the most, maybe wire damage. I checked blu/blk from blower 2p connector to hi relay connector no continuty, and to 3p connector no continuty, and to ccu 30p no continuty also.

- i tried replacing and swapping the relays with others that i know they work like horn and still no luck.

- i have removed the blower housing completly from the car and disassembled the motor and cleaned it and assembled it again, and gave it battery power and it ran and spinned in front of my eyes.

- yesterday i tried a ccu from another NSX of a good friend, his AC works all fine, but still no luck with my blower.

I need help, what other diagnoses I can do?

Does any one know how the blu/blk is routed in the car? From the ccu 30p goes to where then where before it crosses the wall, and after the wall it goes to where and where and where and where before it reaches finally to the blower connector? I have the diagram in the service manual but that does not help to tell how it is physically routed? I suspect it might be torn or damaged or open somewhere.

But if it is not the blu/blk wire then what could it be?

Appreciate if anyone can help please?
 
I have posted my comments in bold. As far as I can tell, all of your diagnosis is done correctly.

Excuse me for bringing this old thread as I am facing the same issue. No blower at any setting, but condensers and compressor all work fine and I can get cold air if I set to outside air inlet and drive at high speed.

My blower motor does not blow. I have done the following checks:
- checked both fuses while removed also by continuty, continuty ok
- blu/wht to ground voltage with igintion on, voltage found
- ylw/blk to ground voltage with ignition on, voltage found
- powered the blower relay and checked continuty, continuty ok
- blu/red to ground voltage with ignition on, voltage found OK - preceding was done correctly and confirms that the blower relay and power supply is OK

- next step in manual says to give power from battery to blu/red ground to blu/blk, which does not make sense because the blower 2p is disconnected, however I did as mentioned but does not run blower. Instead I tried to give power to the blower wires connector side and the blower ran succesfully at full speed. Good, confirms that your blower motor is not dead.

-next step says to jumper the blu/blk wire to ground but blower motor does not run.
-i tried next step jumper blu/blk to blk wire but blower still does not run

-measured ylw/blk to ground voltage, found ok

-removed ccu and jumpered orn/wht to ground but still blower does not run


Now to things which I tried and not mentioned in service manual:
- battery to fuse 30A voltage ok, fuse to ground voltage ok, blu/wht coming from fuse box at relay connector voltage ok
- blu/red from relay to 2p connector continuty ok
- ylw/blk to ground voltage ok. ylw/blk continuty from relay connector to ccu 30p ok for both relays connectors
- orn/wht continuty from relay connector to ccu 30p ok also
- blk to ground for both relays connectors found ok
- light grn/blk continuty from 3p connector to ccu 30p ok also
- blk pins 24 & 25 of ccu 30p to ground found ok.

- continuty of blu/blk wire from any point to another no contintuy was found. this one of things I suspect the most, maybe wire damage. I checked blu/blk from blower 2p connector to hi relay connector no continuty, and to 3p connector no continuty, and to ccu 30p no continuty also.

I suspect that you have discovered the problem. If you do a continuity check from the blk/blu wire on the wire harness plug on the blower motor to the blk/blu wire on the wire harness plug on the blower high relay and find an open circuit, that guarantees non operation of the blower motor. See the attached wiring diagram. If that blk/blu wire from the blower motor to high relay is open circuit then there is no ground connection for the blower motor resulting in non operation. The first place I would check is the condition of the wiring where it enters the wire harness plug on the blower motor and the wire harness plug on the blower high relay. Look for broken wiring. Without knowing your model year, I don't know how the wire harness is set up. If you go to the electrical portion of the service manual, front compartment wire harness, it will show you the routing of the wire harness form the blower motor plug (C219) to the blower high relay plug (C232). You should be able to trace the harness and look for visible damage once you know the wire harness route from the blower to the high relay. If damage is not obvious, it pretty much means unwrapping the harness. Before you do that, run an external jumper from the back side of the blk/blu wire on the blower high relay plug to the back side of the blk/blu wire on the blower plug. Do this with everything plugged together and then try powering up the ignition and running the blower. This will confirm that the problem is a broken wire between the high relay and the blower. You don't want to go cutting open the harness if the problem is somewhere else. Before you do the jumper test, read my comment below about testing the wiring down to the power transistor.

- i tried replacing and swapping the relays with others that i know they work like horn and still no luck.

- i have removed the blower housing completly from the car and disassembled the motor and cleaned it and assembled it again, and gave it battery power and it ran and spinned in front of my eyes.

- yesterday i tried a ccu from another NSX of a good friend, his AC works all fine, but still no luck with my blower.

I need help, what other diagnoses I can do?

Does any one know how the blu/blk is routed in the car? From the ccu 30p goes to where then where before it crosses the wall, and after the wall it goes to where and where and where and where before it reaches finally to the blower connector? I have the diagram in the service manual but that does not help to tell how it is physically routed? I suspect it might be torn or damaged or open somewhere.

It looks like the connection from the blower to the high relay and power transistor is all internal to the front wiring harness. However, it does not look like the front wiring harness goes directly to the CCU. It looks like the front wiring harness connects to the floor wiring harness and perhaps the floor wiring harness connects to the CCU. Normally car makers do not put taps in the middle of the wiring harness. Check the back of the plugs on the blower and the high relay. If one of those plugs has two blk/blu wires, the safe bet is that one of those wires goes to the CCU. It is also possible that the blk/ blu wire from the blower goes to the power transistor and then from the power transistor to the high relay so pull the connector for the power transistor and check the condition of the blk/blu wiring there. Also, do a continuity check from the blk / blu wire on the power transistor to the blk/ blu wire on the blower motor and the blk/blu wire on the high relay connector. That may help you narrow down where the bad connection is.

The common wiring point failure is the plug or where wire enters the plug. Wiring failure within the harness is pretty rare unless something is rubbing the harness or has hit the harness.


But if it is not the blu/blk wire then what could it be?

Appreciate if anyone can help please?
 
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Thanks Old Guy,

I have confused the readers when I said blu/blk, they are actually blk/blu.

Anyways today I tried to jump a wire between bottom of high blower relay blk/blu pin and and blk/blu pin blower 2p connector from inside and plug the connector on it so the pins will contact the blower side connector as normally it would be (smashed my jumper wire little hehe) and I put the ignition and switch on the AC. It worked and the fan will blow but only if I keep to max high fan speed, but variable speeds in between it does not blow at all.

That means there is continuty up to blk/blu pin at high relay when the AC is on.

I also tried to split the wire to the transistor 3p blk/blue so both are jumped but blower doesnt work then in any setting.

For information, I have also identified where the blk/blu wire from ccu 30p ends lastly before it goes into firewall. Its in passenger side kick panel connector C468. But in between ccu 30p till it reaches C468 I don't know how it is routed, but doesn't matter since continuty reaches till there. C468 is not the last connector before firewall, there one more huge wrapped connector that takes all wires I could feel with my hands. See photo below for location of blk/blu in C468 from front compartment side as the interior side is in back side:
IMG_2549.jpg

Another diagnoses I did was to check the continuty of the light grn/blk wire from ccu 30p to transistor 3p connector and found continuty to be ok.

I have seen no two blk/blu wires loop or bridge as I understood from what you said, but they might be split or tapped at some point in the main harness crossing the firewall.

I might have to unwrap it to find out, which is a risky job.
 
Did you check for continuity between the blk/blu on the blower high relay and the blk/blu on the power transistor?


Thanks Old Guy,

Anyways today I tried to jump a wire between bottom of high blower relay blk/blu pin and and blk/blu pin blower 2p connector from inside and plug the connector on it so the pins will contact the blower side connector as normally it would be (smashed my jumper wire little hehe) and I put the ignition and switch on the AC. It worked and the fan will blow but only if I keep to max high fan speed, but variable speeds in between it does not blow at all.

That is not unexpected, putting a jumper to the high relay means that the blower is only grounded through the high relay and only operates on high speed. I am guessing that means that the blk/blu connection between the power transistor and the blower or blower high relay is broken some place. The blower needs the connection to the power transistor to operate at any speed less than high.

That means there is continuty up to blk/blu pin at high relay when the AC is on.

I also tried to split the wire to the transistor 3p blk/blue so both are jumped but blower doesnt work then in any setting.

I am confused. Does that mean that you tried to connect a jumper from blk/blu on the blower to blk/blu on the blower high relay and then a jumper from blk /blu on the blower high relay to blk/blu on the power transistor? If so, that should at least allow the blower to run on high because it did run on high in the previous test.

For information, I have also identified where the blk/blu wire from ccu 30p ends lastly before it goes into firewall. Its in passenger side kick panel connector C468. But in between ccu 30p till it reaches C468 I don't know how it is routed, but doesn't matter since continuty reaches till there. C468 is not the last connector before firewall, there one more huge wrapped connector that takes all wires I could feel with my hands. See photo below for location of blk/blu in C468 from front compartment side as the interior side is in back side:
View attachment 142966

Another diagnoses I did was to check the continuty of the light grn/blk wire from ccu 30p to transistor 3p connector and found continuty to be ok.

I have seen no two blk/blu wires loop or bridge as I understood from what you said, but they might be split or tapped at some point in the main harness crossing the firewall.

I might have to unwrap it to find out, which is a risky job.
 
I checked but there is NO continuity between blk/blu high relay and blk/blu power transistor.

I have continuity between blk/blu of CCU 30p through kickpanel up to blk/blu high relay when I switch on the AC only.

I also checked the blower and power transistor connectors continuity by using a very thin needle and pinch the blk/blu wire just before the connector then saw there was continuity between the needle and the pin, that confirms my connectors are not corroded.

Im going nuts, what could be wrong?

See attached diagram, I have highlighted the area where there is no continuity in between and I suspect it could be the reason.

Is there any chance that my blower motor is faulty even though it runs on direct power?

Or should I continue my troubleshooting on the blk/blu wire and unwrap the harness to see how it is routed physically and findout where it is open?
 

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In post #15 , you ran a jumper from blk/blu on the blower high relay to blk blu on the blower and the blower ran fine on high speed. Add a second jumper from the blk/blu on the blower motor plug to blk/blu on the power transistor plug. With those two jumpers in place, try running the blower on high and the other speeds. If the blower works on all speeds, then you have a broken blk/blu wire somewhere in that area that you have marked in red. You now have two choices. Start pulling the wiring harness apart from the transistor and blower motor plugs and go in the direction leading up to the blower high relay looking for wire damage to the blk/blu wire. Or permanently install the two jumper wires and live with the broken wire in the wiring harness.
 
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Thank you for replaying.

Yes I tried the two jumpers thing, the AC will blow on high max speed only, nothing at all on other speeds.

I measured the LT GRN/BLK wire at various speeds but no voltage.

Maybe I have more than one problem :distress: :crushed:
 
The Climate control unit uses something called pulse width modulation to control the blower speed at anything less than maximum speed. The signal on the Lt grn/blk wire is constantly turning on and off to switch the power transistor on and off. To get a higher fan speed the signal stays on longer than off. Lower speed is off longer than on. If you are using a digital multimeter (particularly a low priced one), the mulimeter's sampling rate may not be high enough to capture the pulse width modulation signal on the lt grn/blk wire. You really need something like an oscilloscope to look for that signal. You said you substituted a good CCU for your CCU and nothing worked, so the problem is unlikely with your CCU and the signal on that wire.

With the ignition on and both jumpers in place, turn the CCU on and set the fan speed on 1/2 speed. If the fan is not running, use a back probe to insert in the blk/blu wire of the power transistor connector and measure the voltage to chassis ground at this point. If the fan is not running, you should be measuring 12 volts. Take a small jumper and insert it on the other side of the transistor plug shorting the blk/blu wire to the blk wire (this is what the blower high relay does when you switch to max speed). The blower should start running on high when you do this. When you do this test, make absolutely sure that you do not short the lt grn/blk wire to anything, including ground. If that happens you can destroy the output transistor in the CCU.

If all this works, in addition to your wiring harness problem, you may have a problem with the blower power transistor. Disconnect the transistor and remove it from the housing. Check the wiring for damage. If you know somebody who is good with electronics, it is not vey hard to check to determine whether the transistor is working. Replacement transistors from Honda are expensive. The power transistor is actually a darlington pair transistor along with a a thermal fuse. Sometimes it is the fuse that fails, not the power transistor. All of these parts are embedded in a potting compound which makes repair a real hassle (you have to grind it out). You can find replacement transistors for less than $20 if you are prepared to do the grinding. But, make sure the power transistor has actually failed first. It is really really really rare for the actual power transistor to fail.
 
Update: I have finally found the problem. The installer who did the stanceparts aircup lift kit messed up bigtime and used the red junction connector inside the fuse box to give ignition power to air compressor relay, where that junction actually is meant for blower/power transistor blu/blk grounding wire. I have removed it and put a new junction from my spare wiring harness (which i wasted hundreds of dollars to buy!) and now blower works fine. Funny the air compressor was functioning properly before, but now I used wiper motor ignition wire instead.
 
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