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RYU's "properly molested" NSX build thread

Who valved your dampers?

If it's a typical JRZ valving, you should be over the half way mark on track. Your likely way under damped and your floaty comments seem to confirm this.

I would set your compression at 7/10 front and rear and rebound at 15/22 front and rear and then adjust accordingly.

Entry oversteer? - go down on rear rebound
Exit oversteer? - go down on rear compression
Front end "skipping"? - go down on front compression
Understeering mid corner? - go down on front rebound

It's likely you're slower a little bit from the tire, but probably more from being under damped and having the car move around and not be as precise as your stiffer spring setup. Try those settings and you'll have a lot more platform and security and it should be a lot more responsive, stable, and predictable with less perceived roll.
I'm running on the stock NSX valving from JRZ.

The lack of confidence in chassis movement at high speeds was the biggest difference I felt last Sunday so my brain was in cautious mode instead of fun mode. I don't think the tires were holding me back as much as the damper tuning. FWIW I think you're bang on in your assessment.

Once again, you are THE MAN Billy. Thanks again for taking the time to help me/us on here. I can't wait to try this and having those quick tips on my mind. I wrote it down in my Track Day log book lol
 
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Small update

I finally got the car back after 6 weeks at the body shop. I had the DF fenders resprayed since the front portion was sandblasted by road rash. I also had the mirror repainted for the same reason. I decided not to repaint the hood because I was worried it might introduce waviness. I used Dr. Colorchip to get rid of the small road rash areas but unfortunately it appears some of those chips returned during polish and prep for the full front clip clear bra. Oh well... It'll have to do for now. I'm also experimenting with my 2nd go at applying CQuartz myself. The 1st time was a wasted effort for various reasons which I mentioned in another thread.

After getting the front clip clear bra'd... btw.. we chose Suntek instead of Xpel because on black Suntek simply looks deeper and glossier. On other colored cars i'd have gone with Xpel... anyway, after the bra I finally was able to install the windshield washer nozzles. I had those holes in the hood for 3yrs+... sigh.

So now i'm just working on minor maintenance and keeping the car going. I'm slowing down on track activity but i'm driving the car locally in the canyons much more. Growing old maybe... HA!

I still want to desperately get some time with a professional like Billy to help me tune the suspension on the car. I can't rest happy until that's done.

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Working on little stuff now like updating the seat belt receiver on my Recaros. Thanks to @DreamPowered for recommending the 2nd Gen Eclipse receivers. They work perfect!!! They even have a nicer and more solid click action then the OEM NSX receivers. Very little play once clicked in too.. Just gotta clean these up because they're filthy.

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Next - The sound system needs attention badly...
 
I installed this front frame brace yesterday. I was shocked how easy it was for something so structurally fundamental. This piece connect both frame rails in the front and actually makes a lot more sense than the front STMPO bar that connects at the tow hooks. It also makes more sense than the front STMPO "Strut tower brace". We don't have struts nor is there much, if any, lateral forces on the top of our shock towers caused by our dampers but should add to frame rigidity so i'll give it a shot. Anything that I think is just fluff or unnecessary on my car always comes off.

I can tell this particular frame brace works because, since it's adjustable, I tried torquing it down more than I'd ever want to (i.e. added preload) and you can hear the chassis started to creak. I backed it off and there's just barely enough preload to snug up the heim joints. Some say one should set preload when the car is on jackstands. I'm on the fence about that methodology but i'll try it and see how much slack is created when I get the car on jack stands. As the frame and suspension droop I should be able to notice some slack on the heim joints. It's super easy to adjust.

Before you ask... I put together 4 of these. The other 3 are already spoken for.

Note: Please don't mind my messy underhood area! I'm in the process or reorganizing everything to fabricate radiator ducting :)

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I wish that front bar would work with the spare tire still in. I know that the lovefab one won't. Have you tried it on one with the spare in yet?
 
Works now. Thanks.

Looks good. I thought you didn't use the OEM radiator, or is that your car?
Good catch Dave! I was one of the last to receive a production version of the MASiV radiator but it's no excuse... I've been lagging on that install for a few months now. It's now summer so I need to do that soon. It's just such a big mess changing rads!

I wish that front bar would work with the spare tire still in. I know that the lovefab one won't. Have you tried it on one with the spare in yet?
I haven't been able to run a spare tire in YEARS. They don't fit over my BBK anyway so I have no idea if it would fit or not. If I was to guess... it *might* because you can see the brace around the ABS pump i have not removed... the brace doesn't touch the bar and i believe that brace is there to protect the spare from hitting the ABS pump. I could be wrong...
 
I haven't been able to run a spare tire in YEARS. They don't fit over my BBK anyway so I have no idea if it would fit or not. If I was to guess... it *might* because you can see the brace around the ABS pump i have not removed... the brace doesn't touch the bar and i believe that brace is there to protect the spare from hitting the ABS pump. I could be wrong...

I'll take a measurement on mine and see how far the spare sticks out. I'd love to run this one. I have the STMPO one now, but this design does seem a lot better.
 
Let me know if you need help from my end. As it turns out I have one extra bar I might post for sale.


From the crimped part of the radiator to the spare is only 5". From the very edge of the radiator fan is only an inch. I don't think it's going to fit.

Some one needs to make one that fits around the spare. What did you use for the brackets that bolt to the 2 sides?
 
Big Update: Brace yourself... I'm starting the initial process of retrofitting an EPS into my 91 NSX. BOOM!
[MENTION=20263]v-tecpwr[/MENTION] - the whole is custom with CNC brackets. See pic (the blue thing on the right). Probably won't fit with a spare. I haven't confirmed with your measurements.
 
Big Update: Brace yourself... I'm starting the initial process of retrofitting an EPS into my 91 NSX. BOOM!

Omg omg! That's awesome.
 
RYU;1943329. the whole is custom with CNC brackets. See pic (the blue thing on the right). Probably won't fit with a spare. I haven't confirmed with your measurements.[/QUOTE said:
Can you make me a set of brackets? I think I might be able to weld up a bar.
 
Ha! It certainly would be cheaper!


Perhaps. Not a high priority at the moment but I'll see if that's possible

I'm in no hurry. Whenever you can do it, if possible, would be great! Thanks!
 
Sounds like a crazy mod. I'm curious as why you just don't buy a late model NA2? Either way it'll be interesting to see the process.
 
Internet porn helped me cope with manual steering. :biggrin:
 
Big Update: Brace yourself... I'm starting the initial process of retrofitting an EPS into my 91 NSX. BOOM!
[MENTION=20263]v-tecpwr[/MENTION] - the whole is custom with CNC brackets. See pic (the blue thing on the right). Probably won't fit with a spare. I haven't confirmed with your measurements.

That's great! I thought about deleting the power steering on my 95 once and even have the manual rack still, but I drove a car without it and did not like it one bit. Makes the car feel old and cumbersome with all the big wheel these days, though with 15/16" wheels the steering probably feels ok.
 
That's great! I thought about deleting the power steering on my 95 once and even have the manual rack still, but I drove a car without it and did not like it one bit. Makes the car feel old and cumbersome with all the big wheel these days, though with 15/16" wheels the steering probably feels ok.
Feels fine to me. Even with sticky rubber. As long as you know how and when to apply force at the wheel. Manual rack is one of the great things about nsx in my opinion.
 
Feels fine to me. Even with sticky rubber. As long as you know how and when to apply force at the wheel. Manual rack is one of the great things about nsx in my opinion.

Yeah that seems to be the popular opinion but I am not a fan myself after having driven both!
 
[MENTION=16531]stuntman[/MENTION] - your quick tuning tips have been very useful! I'm continuing to dial it in. I'm now trying to tune out high speed entry understeer. Here's what I mean...

Going into a chicane or sweeper under mild/moderate throttle, I noticed I have no front end grip, until I let off the throttle to shift weight in the front. The sketchy part is when the front end grabs with the steering angle already more aggressive because I wasn't expecting the understeer going into the turn. Under hard acceleration I don't mind it because I'm forcing it to understeer but I'd like to tune some of that out under mild acceleration.

Which damper setting should I adjust first?

Thanks much Billy
 
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