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"solidol" 94 BB: maintenance/build

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9 October 2012
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"solidol" 94 BB: maintenance/build

After close to two years of making small tweaks and changes as well as few more to come up very soon - I figured it's finally worth to post under the build section. I have always been "OEM is the way to go" kind of person. Never chased horsepower and will always take balance and liveliness over it. And with NSX it's the same. Great platform and excellent engineering by Honda folks. Yet there are few things I wanted to change to make it close to what I feel NA NSX should be.
I'm huge fan of light cars and coming from S2000 I felt like I need to drop some weight here and there. This is still ongoing as quite few things are just plain overpriced for what they are.

This is the first picture when we brought it home

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I have anticipated few fixes to be done right away and there were no surprises with the shape of the car. Well maybe except mice poop on the intake manifold.
First I had to fix brakes. Bought a set of PowerSlot rotors and Hawk HPS pads. That would suffice for now (street/canyon runs);

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Also set of Bilsteins and Street anti-sway bars from Dali were next. Don't have a bench and had to do it on the garage floor. Also never mind rusty hub - it was cleaned later

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After ditching stock wheels I picked up set of Regamasters 17/18 and this is how I drove it for next 4-5 thousand miles

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Alternator belt was too tight and apparently killed the bearing. Bought rebuilt denso from amazon

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I also put battery quick disconnect

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There was desperate need to reduce mass of inertia but I could not find anything that would work with stock clutch (Tilton was not available); And so I went with SOS 275. Lighter flywheel makes it more alive and rev happy. But not to the extreme point when rotation speed drops too quickly. Old clutch wasn't too bad. But springs were tired and few were loose.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1358040016.375431.jpgclutch.jpgclutch2.jpgclutch3.jpg

I wanted to go to back to 91 and see how it handled with 91-93 wheels. Front suspension became more responsive for sure

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I was hearing flapping noise on deceleration and decided to check VVIS. Two screws were loose enough to cause free play for two valves. I decided not to put it back in and bought shorter bolts from SOS to get rid of VVIS. I will put it back when time permits as I don't have plans to boost it.

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I was trying to get rid of heavy exhaust and decided to try Pride V2. Loved the sound but it was too much drone so I sold it and back to stock for now

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WhiteNSX kit installed. It does not look blue in reality. It's probably just bad camera work

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I wanted to try Carbon6 clamps and after 2-3k miles I'm definitely not coming back. No need for heavy track load even on the street it makes a difference. Never mind scratched anti-sway bar - it was clear coated after hitting brake duct for some time

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I never liked OEM steering wheel. It wasn't good feeling to ditch the airbag but this Mugen indeed transformed the feel

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More to come as I try to make it lighter and more responsive.
 
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Great thread! Looking forward to more additions. Also, if you ever want a hand or some company working on the car, let me know! I'm a junkie when it comes to working on cars. Sent you a message on FB.
 
Great thread! Looking forward to more additions. Also, if you ever want a hand or some company working on the car, let me know! I'm a junkie when it comes to working on cars. Sent you a message on FB.
Thanks Dennis. I don't have garage anymore and will be going to PitRow in Santa Clara to work on the car. Will post at NorCal section when heading there.
 
Thanks Dennis. I don't have garage anymore and will be going to PitRow in Santa Clara to work on the car. Will post at NorCal section when heading there.

That's a bummer but sounds good. Let me know next time you head down there and we can meet up.
 
Getting ready for few changes I was planning for quite some time:

- transmission rebuild with NSX-R gears
- CT headers
- ATI Super damper

Some parts started to roll in today. Somewhat inaccurate weight on the pulley: 6.6lb

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Quick update: short gears are awesome. Dropping almost 2lb from the crankshaft rotation mass is great also.

CT Headers are next:

owES6kYd0H2yEMmy1WCALPiUpE-3ekyBTrv2KDFKEg=w1530-h865-no


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Collector (could be smoother but oh well)

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This past weekend I finally found time and place with the lift to go to and replace stock headers (http://www.pitrow-diy.com/); I followed Kaz' advice and purchased set of NA2 gaskets and 14 nuts to fasten the header. Why I didn't get few studs at the same time I don't really know. Goal was to replace rear header only. I need to replace oil pan gasket before putting front CT header in.

B2FiNiTY offered his help and so off we went.

Arriving at PitRow in Santa Clara we waited for the owner to show up and at the same time unloaded tools and let headers to cool down:

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On the lift and ready to work on it. At this point cat's and heat shield nuts soaked with WD40. So letting it sit for few minutes.
Shop is clean with bunch of lifts and tools.

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Few minutes later cat have been removed. One of the concerns for this job was O2 sensor removal. I wanted to try to remove it while header was still hot/warm; just when I was trying to apply some torque to get it loose how surprised I was to see it was almost hand tight. One problem less. Great.

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O2 sensor is off as well as heat shields:

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Second potential issue while removing headers is broken studs. I knew I had to have few studs but for some reason completely forgot to buy them.
What was interesting though: we found broken stud and nut was stuck between header and heat shield for some time. As it started to rust a little bit. See picture below.
The only theory I have is that it was over torqued and during heat cycle just broke off. I don't think anybody would try to remove header, snap it and leave it there. But still a little bit of mystery to me as I don't think cast steel expands that much to put enough tension to break the stud. Thoughts?

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Another one came loose altogether

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And you can see marks where the leak was:

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Heavy NA1 manifold. 7.6 kg; Sorry but I forgot to weight CT Header..

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Next we started to look how to slide CT header in. It's not that tight but I didn't want to drop the anti sway bar. But I had to. Not a big deal really.
We couldn't find replacement stud at local dealership so had to leave without it for now. It's on the way and hope I will have enough clearance for my stud installer socket to put it in without removing the header. If not then locking two nuts will do just fine.

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Now it was time to put adapter in and torque everything up. There was some rough welds leftover so I decided to take that off

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Final checks and ready to fire it up and look for leaks

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No leaks found. One finger burnt.

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Special thanks to Dennis(B2FiNiTY) for help and great time.

Next weekend is reserved for front header just before long 4th of July road trip.








 
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Just hit 130.000 last week and finally had a chance to look at injectors. Out to RC Eng for cleaning and calibration. Engine ran great but still curious to see before/after comparison stats

injectors2.jpg


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Awesome thread, what are your plans for exhaust? What's the weight difference between Oem and ct headers? Also, what did you with the rega wheels?
Thank you. Exhaust is very touchy subject for me :smile: I will most likely get CT Eng Gen2. I really really like oval/oem tips and unless 02+ valence anything other than oval or quad just doesn't look right to me. So that's pending.. plus I think CT gives just right amount of noise increase over stock. I much prefer induction over exhaust noise.

I don't remember the weight difference but it was pretty significant. I haven't weighted CT headers. OEM weight is up there. You can always ask Nate about CT Headers weight and compare.

Regas have been sold. Will probably get a set later as it's still one of my favorite wheels for NSX.
 
Thank you. Exhaust is very touchy subject for me :smile: I will most likely get CT Eng Gen2. I really really like oval/oem tips and unless 02+ valence anything other than oval or quad just doesn't look right to me. So that's pending.. plus I think CT gives just right amount of noise increase over stock. I much prefer induction over exhaust noise.

I agree, I haven't done any mods but everyone keeps telling me OEM pipes are very restrictive.
 
Any particular reason you went with the ATI damper?
OEM would do just fine.

But: somewhat "much" lighter given where you take extra rotating mass off, I like things well designed, reasonable price @summitracing (~450 or something), if I decide to go with CT Supercharger it's extra piece of mind.

Cons: you need to have ATI wrench for removal/installation. It needs to be rebuilt by ATI hence you can't just buy new from Honda and replace quickly.
 
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Received my injectors back from RC Eng. Packaged with care. Calibration report below.

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- - - Updated - - -

Christmas gifts showed up early. Can't wait to put these in. Now all of my weight savings go out of the window :) ~3lb more than oem

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IMG_20141223_130851


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Rubber heal pad

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Quality rubber backing

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- - - Updated - - -

www.cocomats.com

These are Chequers #103 in Black&Grey;


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Just finished putting everything back together. After quick test drive around the neighborhood I can definitely tell engine runs much smoother. No fuel leaks anywhere. Very satisfied with results. Just hit 130.000 miles
 

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Finally scored MOMO V36 Type S wheel. 9/3 grip position is higher than my Mugen which took time to get used to. But to my surprise it gives more leverage and a bit of go-kart feel as well. Almost feels like 320mm prototipo :)

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Awesome work so far Roman!! I admire the fact that you do a lot of your own work. New type-S wheel looks awesome. I'm surprised I didnt notice your build thread sooner!! Look forward to what you have in future plans :)
 
Awesome work so far Roman!! I admire the fact that you do a lot of your own work. New type-S wheel looks awesome.
I'm surprised I didnt notice your build thread sooner!! Look forward to what you have in future plans :)
Hey Robert, thanks! Future means ITBs ;) Stay tuned..
 
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