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"Heater on Full Blast"..Myth?

Joined
25 September 2012
Messages
518
Location
Markham, Ontario, Canada
Strictly speaking, with the heater on, it acts as a miniature HX removing heat from the coolant. Meaning more energy is leaving the system than with the heater off. OK I get it.
But are we talking 1% cooling or 0.001%??

I might be ignorant, but having the heat on full blast seems more of a hindrance (to the driver) than a benefit to the engine.

If the heater core really cools down an engine on track, than either the rad is undersized, or the cabin fan is ridiculously over-sized.

Can someone explain this track myth (or fact)?

Thanks,

Lucas
 
I would guess that the interior heater has 1-5 percent of the capacity of the radiator ... not a lot, but every little bit helps.

While not very enjoyable, I would rather sweat out another couple bottles of water than have to change my head gasket(s) :)
 
LOL...the last thing I want on is my heater..Hot enough with a helmet and suit.
I run at 218 in 100+ ambient degree heat for 15 minute sessions..
Fix your cooling problem....
 
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I agree, man I would never do that unless its an emergency. If you are in a proper nomex suit and undies it is HOT. But.... It's absolutely not a myth and works well. I've used it several times with a blown coolant line and redlining engine temps (never in the NSX but on shitboxes I've owned).
 
LOL...the last thing I want on is my heater..Hot enough with a helmet and suit.
I run at 218 in 100+ ambient degree heat for 15 minute sessions..
Fix your cooling problem....

I recently got one of these to help deal with the in car heat and they work great, do not know what the stuf is that is in the little packets but it freezes at 56* and stays cold for hours, so I have no issues keeping my cool in a 20 min session. They work great and since it is not a system installed in the car I can use it while riding with others.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2745-003

I since found this one as well that looks to be even better if not slightly less money.
http://www.stacoolvest.com/stacool-under-vest/

I run about the same temps as you and when I run really hard I will sneak up on 220*, I do not like it that hot and have the front bumper off the car right now sealing the radiator ducting to prevent any air leaks before the radiator, may help a little.

Dave
 
I wonder what the reason is for this...More capacity, longer travel time/dwell through the system...?
I always turn the heater on when I bleed the system, but thats to make sure there's no air trapped in the heater core.

- - - Updated - - -

220 is getting up there, optimally we should be around the 208-210 mark on track.
Our Turbo's is a lot of the reason we might run hotter than most I would think Dave...
I add to the demand of my cooling system also because I run the Laminova Oil to Water cooler as well.

 
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sissy's :tongue:
 
I run a MASIV Radiator with Dual Spa fans.
 
Strictly speaking, with the heater on, it acts as a miniature HX removing heat from the coolant. Meaning more energy is leaving the system than with the heater off. OK I get it.
But are we talking 1% cooling or 0.001%??

Just looking at the relative difference in size between the radiator and the heater on page 5-14 of the SM, I estimate the heater heat exchanger is roughly 1/8 of the radiator heat exchanger.

Now, assuming that the internal coolant velocities are similar, and the external air flow on the outside of the fins is similar (obviously not), then I would estimate that the heater would add less than 10% the cooling capacity of the radiator... this would account for the reduced convective heat transfer on the heater with the blower motor instead of the airflow through the radiator at speed.

10% is decent, and probably why this "myth" is all over the place.

Like you asked - Is it worth it? To some, maybe. I completely removed my OEM engine oil cooler from the coolant supply and now have dual dedicated air/oil heat exchangers in the rear of the car with a bypass thermostat (to help quickly warm up the oil when first started), and staggered thermostat controls for fans. I also mounted them in high airflow areas to begin with, but I can't take credit for that idea - that came from studying Mark911's oil cooling setup and then modifying it to suit my needs.

The heat exchangers were sized to keep 600WHP cool with track surface temperatures at 110F (an ambient 90F is the most I would ever track with in my old age), and my oil temps in the correct range to suit my the particular oil and bearing clearances.

Hope that helps.

Dave

Edit:
For you engineers, from the SM, the OEM radiator is sized to remove 46,000 kcal/hr (unknown outside delta-T and airflow rate). We know the OEM water pump flows ~40GPM at 6000RPM, but don't know the coolant delta-T.... But, you can compare the 46,000 to an assumed engine power and efficiency.
 
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Does the NSX coolant system run the heater core in series? If so I can see how the heater would only help. And after what some have said above and some hand calculations I've done, ~5% additional cooling seems reasonable. But that's all assuming coolant flow in series.

A friend of mine says his VWs have all had the heater plumbed to bypass the radiator from the factory (in Parallel). Putting on his heater does nothing to aid in cooling as it essentially reduces the mass flow through the rad.

Maybe that's why this is a "myth" as it depends on arrangement of the plumbing.
Lucas
 
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