Prep for boost?

Question for those without access to a car lift.. We're you able to do a head gasket/stud change? If you did was it a bigger hassle then when you first started? Followed this forum for awhile before I chosed to go turbo.. From what I gathered stock wise 450hp seems to be at the top with good tune.. Sine mine is a 91, stock head gasket is probably it's weakest link .. Not looking to push the stock limits but would be satisfied at 400. Even that is a hit or miss with good tune..

motor at 110k runs strong, no problems, matainence up to date, new hoses, love fab kit with aem ems.. Hoping to start this soon but would like some insight on whether or not to do a head gasket/stud change.. Will not see track duty just a wkend nsx with a little more hp after a long wk of work..

You might want to do a compression and leak down test.
400hp will require an upgraded clutch. Remove the damper while your at it and swap your exhaust manifolds to na2 style which build serious torque at an extremely low cost.
Install a walbro 255. Tune it to 400 Rwhp which is about 7psi. No need for head gaskets. Good luck and post pics.

Opinion .. Currently the turbo with the lovefab stage 2 kit is I believe to be the pt6262 with approx 7k miles.. A friend has a pt6265 turbo brand new that he's willing to let go for very very cheap to me.. Since I'm not shooting for anywhere near 450hp would his turbo be an overkill? I was thinking of using this as a back-up turbo because of the price and may look to do a mild build next summer.. Will update progress in the coming months

front removal took 2hrs tring to figure out that i needed to take the crash bumper with it..

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so far this process took a whole day approximately 10hrs..

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heres what i learned so far its a PITA! and im not even close to being done.. this is by far the hardest car i've worked on.. not even sure how im going to take the front header and dropping the fuel tank down yet, but theres no turning back now.. any advice is much appreciated.. again no car lift.. definitely a learning curve. Always did work on my own car atleast this way if something does go wrong ill knoe how to get to it ..

Working from jack stands is going to slow you down, having a lift would have saved you hours and your back.

Now that you have done it ounce the second time goes much faster, I can pull a front bumper in about 30min on a lift. Headers in about 45 min. if you do not brake a stud. Gas tank is about 2.5-3hrs in and out, but I can assure you your first time will take longer and doing it on jacks stands can be done but will be very difficult. Once the tank is down the fuel pump itself takes about 30 min to remove and replace. Make sure you test your pump in the pump assembly before you reinstall the tank in the car. I have had bad fuel pumps out of the box cause me to have to do the job twice.

Oh the black tar like crap on the tank will stain and stick to anything it gets on so get yourself some throw away Nitrile gloves and try not to get it on you.

Front headers will come out with ease and you will have much better access, if you remove the front grey lower cross brace that is supporting the front motor/trans mount, with it out of the way the header is not bad at all to get out. While things are out of the way check all the motor and trans mounts you will likely have to replace the front and rear mounts if your car has a lot of miles on it. Once you go FI you should check these at every oil change as they will not take much abuse and are prone to fail at N/A power levels. Since the front headers are going to be down now would be a good time to baffle the oil pan and replace the gasket.

Take your time, review the service manual before you start, again take your time, the car is really an easy car to work on compared to many other modern cars. Try bleading a clutch slave on a C6 Corvette, about 5 hours of work before you ever see the slave bleeder.

Dave

Fuel pump changed walbro 255, oil pan done. Went to install rc 750cc injectors but wasn't sure if it was suppose to have o rings on the bottom side? All it had was green o rings at top no other seals with it.. Was the stock seals suppose to be used in conjunction with what looked like phenolic spacers? If so it appears that it's on the small side (I/D) I suppose I could rotor zip using sanding drum open it up a little...

When up sizing injectors did it come with new seals/spacers for the base?

Clearence looks good from axle and wheel



Crank pulley plate installed .. Never thought that bolt would come off!!! 20v ingersollrand 1/2 impact gun did the trick, dealership put some kinda thread lock on it..



Almost there..