What seat, what harness bar and what mount. Ive had a few different iterations of mine and they 'best way' was always dependent on what combo I was using.
Currently I have a Recaro Pro racer HANS, Buddy Club seat mount and Schroth Clubman and V2 comptech harness bar. The Recar Pro Racer is a VERY narrow seat and I made custom L brackets to lower the seat so its actually sitting on the carpet.
--Lap belts need to be as short as possible to the attachment points from the cam lock and cant have any obstructions as they pass through the holes in the sides of your seat. If you have a Bride or a Recaro and the buddy club seats rails the rear side mounts (depending on the hole you have them adjusted too) are long enough to over lap the lap belt opening, if this is the case on you set up choose another adjustment hole or trim down the side mount brackets. Dont have anything obstructing the pass-though. I am using eye bolts for the lap belts and they JUUUST clear on the 'transmission tunnel' side of things, I also think i had to chop saw them down so they didnt contact the seat once threaded into the belt provisions on the seat mount.
--Anti sub strap. Theres a few schools of thought on how to do this one. Convertionaly Schroth suggests that the sub strap needs to be floor mounted 20* back from the anti sub hole in the seat. I had the car apart and took a good look and determined that using a sandwiched backing plate is NOT the best way to do it on an NSX. The NSX has stamped ridge patters in the aluminum of the floor, the ridges would interfere with creating a flat sandwich between the backing plate and the belt loop. Also 16g aluminum would not take much force to pull though even if you could. After taking to a few people I am running my substraps 'formula style' and they are wrapped around the lower most rung on the harness bar the same as the should belts do around the rung above it. This way still meets all the length requirements for the sub strap just not the recommended 20* angle which I verified with a call to Schroth was only a 'best case
recommendation' Running my sub belts as described give me more head room since there is no obstruction to putting the seat flat on the floor.
--- Shouder harnesses just need to be positioned correctly height wise and wrapped correctly, easy peasy. Height shouldn't be a problem if you are using any 'normal' raceseats and have any of the harness bars that are on the market.
Cant remember, are you going to have a HANS device too? I would suggest it big time if your getting serious with restraint. The more you're held down the more that you head with a helmet needs to be restrained too or it'll just want to tear off you spine in any sort of mid speed accident.
I did a few more trick things using scuba tube to keep the harnesses out of the way to help me get into and out of the car. also ended up buying another worksbell disconnect so I can take off the wheel again when getting into and out of the car. If you do need a QD dont use any of that NRG crapola. I will say that after coming correct with driver safety devices it has rendered my NSX almost wholly unusable on the street, getting it on and off trailers etc.Itt takes me a good miniute min and a half to get strapped in wheel on and car started. I cant tell you how many times ive strapped in and forgot the keys or wheel outside the car. :/
As always, im glad to come give you a hand!
bad old pics--
buddy club side mount bracket. its really tall and will obstruct the belt opening. Also wont sit low enough for me. You can see the lap belt provisions in the pic just in front of them. I use these since they slide with the bracket and let me not have to re adjust the belts if I move the seat. Its maybe not the best case scenerio, attaching them to the provisions on the chassis may be a bit better. but this is why im building my other racecar.
bad picture but you can see the brackets I made to lower the seat and not obstruct the belt holes
