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Ctsc

Joined
31 March 2011
Messages
386
Location
Washington State
Hello Primers

Would like to ask for your help. I am trying to figure out the best setup for the CTSC I am purchasing. Below is the current state of the car.


Goal - looking for gains in hp nothing too crazy atleast over 320whp.
Year - 1998

1) Car is driven on weekends and occasional weekday. Track in the future.
2) Stock engine
3) Stock injectors
4) Stock ECU
5) Stock headers
6) Prospeed X-pipe exahust 2.5 diameter pipe
7) DF air mugen intake
8) DF Side scoop
9) Stock Throttle body
10) AEM gauges

Read some threads on Prospeed injectors or other threads mention stay with stock ECU and upgrade injectors to 500. Some threads say stay with stock ECU paying $1900 for the AEM V2 is not worth the extra 40 whp.

Should I replace the injectors and ECU? I have been informed that injector and ECU replacement is not necessary.

Thanks


 
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With the standard CTSC, I'd suggest keeping the stock ECU and injectors. Maybe send the injectors out for cleaning. But otherwise, your current mods are a good match. You should easily make more than 320whp. If you change injectors, then you need aftermarket ECU or piggyback FIC. It's not worth it IMHO. FWIW, I have a SC with full AEM EMS so I'm not biased.
 
^^^^^ +1 on this, nothing more is needed to get what you are looking for HP wise. ^^^
 
+1 ^
92 CTSC. I have my SC installed right out of the box from CT engineering. I'm making about 340hp to the wheels. With your car you should be 20+ over me with the 3.2.
 
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03 CTSC, header, exhaust, CT ice box intake. Dyno making 352hp. More than I'll ever need.....

Frankie
 
I think there is more differences in dynos than your set-up.
I am running ~5 psi on a 1991 3.0 and my (conseravtive) dyno sheets don't show these kinds of #s ...BUT I am running safely rich AND I am supremely happy with the performance with a plug and play CTSC low boost set-up (stock injectors and ecu).
 
With the standard CTSC, I'd suggest keeping the stock ECU and injectors. Maybe send the injectors out for cleaning. But otherwise, your current mods are a good match. You should easily make more than 320whp. If you change injectors, then you need aftermarket ECU or piggyback FIC. It's not worth it IMHO. FWIW, I have a SC with full AEM EMS so I'm not biased.

Thanks, looks like stock parts with the few mods I have will work the hp increase I am looking for and will keep me out of the poor house.

^^^^^ +1 on this, nothing more is needed to get what you are looking for HP wise. ^^^

Good to hear +2 people share the same idea.

+1 ^
92 CTSC. I have my SC installed right out of the box from CT engineering. I'm making about 340hp to the wheels. With your car you should be 20+ over me with the 3.2.

Thanks, +3 People agree stock is a good method.

I think there is more differences in dynos than your set-up.
I am running ~5 psi on a 1991 3.0 and my (conseravtive) dyno sheets don't show these kinds of #s ...BUT I am running safely rich AND I am supremely happy with the performance with a plug and play CTSC low boost set-up (stock injectors and ecu).

+4 people are on board. I am starting to see a pattern. I understand that the AEM will provide more control and there is probably a mix of people that would move toward that option too.
 
My kit came with a "voltage multiplier" for the stock fuel pump.
I don't like idea of overdriving the fuel pump or an 16 years old one like the OP seem to have. With a uprated fuel pump the complexity of the system is reduced by throwing the unit out.
 
I don't like idea of overdriving the fuel pump or an 16 years old one like the OP seem to have. With a uprated fuel pump the complexity of the system is reduced by throwing the unit out.

GoldNSX, I believe that you showed the voltage doubler was unnecessary once you upgraded the factory wiring? I'm currently having my OEM pump replaced with a Deatschwerks, and plan to leave the doubler for experimenting. But if it turns out I don't need it, it does seem preferable to remove it.

OP: +1 on upgrading the fuel pump. Mine seemed fine but certainly not for long. My '00 had CTSC from the dealer and I bought it a few months ago with 38k miles. It needed immediate attention for the bypass hose and vacuum hoses and now needs a fuel pump. I'm hoping it's stable after that.

Definitely make sure you can monitor AFR and fuel pressure. That is the only way you will know there is a problem. I think the ability to log is important, because the values change so fast as you're driving that it's nearly impossible to really evaluate the system. I thank Dave Dozier for encouraging me to get the Zeitronix ZT-2 for measuring and logging things. I believe you said you already have gauges but if not, give it a look.
 
GoldNSX, I believe that you showed the voltage doubler was unnecessary once you upgraded the factory wiring? I'm currently having my OEM pump replaced with a Deatschwerks, and plan to leave the doubler for experimenting. But if it turns out I don't need it, it does seem preferable to remove it.
Yes, that's true. Any fuel pump like Walbro 255 LPH or the like will deliver enough fuel for a low-pressure CTSC. As all of these pumps draw much more current under load (up to 20 A) the factory wires need to be replaced by the SOS wiring kit and thicker wires for the fuel pump itself including the ones in the tank. The OEM fuel pump resistor needs to be bypassed.

BTW: as the OEM fuel pump is a Denso it can sustend overboosting quite good. But some aftermarket fuel pump don't like it and die suddenly. So the voltage regulator does more bad than good. And nobody wants to loose his fuel fump under boost, even with the recommended logging (+1 on that).
 
...the factory wires need to be replaced by the SOS wiring kit and thicker wires for the fuel pump itself including the ones in the tank. The OEM fuel pump resistor needs to be bypassed.

What's involved with replacing the wires in the tank? Are those part of the OEM bracket, or part of the new pump?

I do have a relay that provides power right before the wires go through the firewall to the pump. But the wire is skinny from that point to the pump.

I did bypass my resistor, by replacing the relay with a loop of wire. That has the benefit of not hearing the clicking sound any more.
 
The thing about the factory CTSC system is that it is designed for a OEM fuel system that is in tip top shape. The real issue really is... With cars nearly 25yrs old how good is your OEM fuel system to begin with...
I understand why CT doesn't kill the voltage doubler and recommends a ungraded fuel pump instead. It's no fun changing the pump which involves much labor (and nerves). It's easier for the dealers to fit in an electronic unit any mechanic can do. But this unit could fail or send the pump south. So it's still second best IMO.

I would extend the range of parts in tip top shape to ignition coils, igniter unit and main relay. I've changed them for the safety reasons. Overkill? Maybe but I sleep and boost much better/safer. :D Better safe than sorry.

- - - Updated - - -

What's involved with replacing the wires in the tank? Are those part of the OEM bracket, or part of the new pump?
I've used my own wiring. You also need some connections to the pumpt that can take the higher diameter of the wire. I would replace the OEM wiring as much as I can. It's not necessarily part of the new pump but can be like in the Walbro 255. But a fuel pump with 20 A needs a little bit more.
 
I don't like idea of overdriving the fuel pump or an 16 years old one like the OP seem to have. With a uprated fuel pump the complexity of the system is reduced by throwing the unit out.

Thanks, I did not know that the fuel pump was a vital recommendation for the install.

GoldNSX, I believe that you showed the voltage doubler was unnecessary once you upgraded the factory wiring? I'm currently having my OEM pump replaced with a Deatschwerks, and plan to leave the doubler for experimenting. But if it turns out I don't need it, it does seem preferable to remove it.

+2 on replacing fuel pump.

OP: +1 on upgrading the fuel pump. Mine seemed fine but certainly not for long. My '00 had CTSC from the dealer and I bought it a few months ago with 38k miles. It needed immediate attention for the bypass hose and vacuum hoses and now needs a fuel pump. I'm hoping it's stable after that.

Definitely make sure you can monitor AFR and fuel pressure. That is the only way you will know there is a problem. I think the ability to log is important, because the values change so fast as you're driving that it's nearly impossible to really evaluate the system. I thank Dave Dozier for encouraging me to get the Zeitronix ZT-2 for measuring and logging things. I believe you said you already have gauges but if not, give it a look.

I have two AEM serial gauges and thinking of adding a AEM fail-safe too. Thanks

Yes, that's true. Any fuel pump like Walbro 255 LPH or the like will deliver enough fuel for a low-pressure CTSC. As all of these pumps draw much more current under load (up to 20 A) the factory wires need to be replaced by the SOS wiring kit and thicker wires for the fuel pump itself including the ones in the tank. The OEM fuel pump resistor needs to be bypassed.

BTW: as the OEM fuel pump is a Denso it can sustend overboosting quite good. But some aftermarket fuel pump don't like it and die suddenly. So the voltage regulator does more bad than good. And nobody wants to loose his fuel fump under boost, even with the recommended logging (+1 on that).

+3 looks like I should be looking for a Denso fuel pump. Thanks. Anything else for a successful install and performance?

Do you know the part number for the Denso fuel pump? I figure I would pick it up for the install.
 
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+3 looks like I should be looking for a Denso fuel pump. Thanks. Anything else for a successful install and performance?

Do you know the part number for the Denso fuel pump? I figure I would pick it up for the install.
I'd install a new fuel pump/wiring prior to the CTSC. As you have a 1998 an AFR gauge is not necessary if you have an OBD scanner. As you're installing AEM gauges I'd also do that prior to the CTSC so you can monitor and learn the behaviour. Maybe a temporary fuel pressure gauge would be helpful for the first dyno pulls.

The Supra fuel pump can be bought at every Totota dealer. It's not cheap and be aware that there are plenty of copies/fake out there.

Good luck!
 
The Denso draws a lot more current than other pumps. I spent a lot of time looking into it and decided the Aeromotive was at the top, then Dave Dozier convinced me to go with Deatschwerks. I highly recommend that you PM Dave (ddozier) as he has a lot of experience with boosted NSXs.

What parameters will you be monitoring with your AEM gauges?
 
I have a special situation with my CTSC my NSX is Auto, and the normal setup wouldn't provide enough fuel at wot past 5k rpm. Because of the extra load of the transmission. So I went 550 injectors and AEM FIC. It runs great now. Minus a few little tuning issues that have almost all been worked out. That's the difference with the FIC you need to have it tuned. If I could of stuck with the oem with the black box I would of just for simplicity. And I put a Warbro 255 in and didn't need the voltage booster anymore. The other thing I want to try to do is switch out the RRFPR to a regular FPR in the future and eliminate the high pressure under boost.
If you need cleaned injectors I'm going to post some up in the market place I just had cleaned for the CTSC that they couldn't use.
But with headers, exhaust, test pipes, DF air scoop, and CTSC I put down 325 rwhp at 70 degrees. Or 310 in the 110 degree dyno room. So you will hit 320 for sure not having the detuned ecu and loss thru the auto trans.
 
I'd install a new fuel pump/wiring prior to the CTSC. As you have a 1998 an AFR gauge is not necessary if you have an OBD scanner. As you're installing AEM gauges I'd also do that prior to the CTSC so you can monitor and learn the behaviour. Maybe a temporary fuel pressure gauge would be helpful for the first dyno pulls.

The Supra fuel pump can be bought at every Totota dealer. It's not cheap and be aware that there are plenty of copies/fake out there.

Good luck!

I will look into a new pump. The rewire makes me a little cautious of how,what,and who? I have a the SOS fuel gauge connected now so looks like I can hit the dyno and monitor the fuel pressure.

The Denso draws a lot more current than other pumps. I spent a lot of time looking into it and decided the Aeromotive was at the top, then Dave Dozier convinced me to go with Deatschwerks. I highly recommend that you PM Dave (ddozier) as he has a lot of experience with boosted NSXs.

What parameters will you be monitoring with your AEM gauges?

Looking to monitor oil pressure and fuel pressure mainly. But if there are other important metrics to monitor what is a norm as a recommendation? I have contacted DDozier about a fuel pump.

I have a special situation with my CTSC my NSX is Auto, and the normal setup wouldn't provide enough fuel at wot past 5k rpm. Because of the extra load of the transmission. So I went 550 injectors and AEM FIC. It runs great now. Minus a few little tuning issues that have almost all been worked out. That's the difference with the FIC you need to have it tuned. If I could of stuck with the oem with the black box I would of just for simplicity. And I put a Warbro 255 in and didn't need the voltage booster anymore. The other thing I want to try to do is switch out the RRFPR to a regular FPR in the future and eliminate the high pressure under boost.
If you need cleaned injectors I'm going to post some up in the market place I just had cleaned for the CTSC that they couldn't use.
But with headers, exhaust, test pipes, DF air scoop, and CTSC I put down 325 rwhp at 70 degrees. Or 310 in the 110 degree dyno room. So you will hit 320 for sure not having the detuned ecu and loss thru the auto trans.

Thanks but not sure if I will need the injectors. I was thinking of adding test pipes not sure if that will really increase much hp. Most threads I read mention changing the headers as you did.
 
Hello,

Continuing this Thread. Searching for the part numbers for the Denso and Deatschwerks fuel pumps. If anyone knows please post the part numbers. I have been looking but unsuccessful. Trying to compare and purchase for the install. So far I have one quote for the installation, dyno, and tuning. Waiting for the second quote. Let's say the quote is quite expensive. I am looking for savings in all aspects of parts and install.

thanks
 
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Deatschwerks DW200 universal install:

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-pumps/9-201-1000-detail

I don't understand your comment regarding install. If you are going with the usual setup, there is no need for a dyno or tuning. You have AFR gauges so you simply need to set the fuel pressure at about 50 at idle and see how the AFR is over a few street pulls. Adjust fuel pressure from there. I forget if you can log AFR; if so that will help tremendously.

It is, for better or for worse, a single-degree-of-freedom system. Base fuel pressure is your only tuning parameter. Unfortunately, if it's set up like mine with the adjusting screw on the bottom, it's an annoying place to get one's hands and a wrench, but not impossible.

Edit: I believe the Denso is 19530-1020 and also goes by 19530-1270.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/163714-Denso-195130-1020-fuel-pump
 
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Hello Primers

Would like to ask for your help. I am trying to figure out the best setup for the CTSC I am purchasing. Below is the current state of the car.


Goal - looking for gains in hp nothing too crazy atleast over 320whp.
Year - 1998

1) Car is driven on weekends and occasional weekday. Track in the future.
2) Stock engine
3) Stock injectors
4) Stock ECU
5) Stock headers
6) Prospeed X-pipe exahust 2.5 diameter pipe
7) DF air mugen intake
8) DF Side scoop
9) Stock Throttle body
10) AEM gauges

Read some threads on Prospeed injectors or other threads mention stay with stock ECU and upgrade injectors to 500. Some threads say stay with stock ECU paying $1900 for the AEM V2 is not worth the extra 40 whp.

Should I replace the injectors and ECU? I have been informed that injector and ECU replacement is not necessary.

Thanks



Sorry looks like I am a little late to the party.

You have a few options and some of the information posted in the above posts do not take into account the OBD2 OEM ECU in your car. To clear a few things up and get you going I have tried to sum up your options but I have a question for you as well.

1. Do you have a plug in emissions test in your area?

OK, since you have an OBD2 NSX and most likely have a plug in emissions test you will have to pass you have two real choices, Keep the CTSC fuel system and improve it a little or add a piggy back and improve it a lot. If you have no emissions testing to worry about then you are free to consider a stand-a-lone ECU like the AEM Series 2 ECU or Infinity ECU.

The Comptech fuel system is really a bit of a bandaid but it works for what it is, what it does is trick the car into thinking it is a WOT with no boost any time the car is really in boost. It does this using a voltage clamp on the MAP sensor, CT calls this an ESM. This is needed to keep the OEM ECU from seeing any boost as it will go into limp mode without the voltage clamp. Once the ECU is prevented from going into limp mode and thinks the car is running at WOT without boost you have to have a way of increasing the fuel being added to the combustion process to account for the added air from the boost. The CT fuel system does this without changing the injectors by increasing fuel pressure while the car is in boost relative to the boost pressure. CT does this by replacing the stock fuel pressure regulator with an adjustable unit they call an FMU. The FMU will allow the fuel pressure to be increased to as much as 100-110 PSI from the stock fuel pressures of 50-60 PSI. Since the OEM ECU is no longer calculating the amount of fuel needed for boost (remember the ESM has told the ECU the car is running at WOT and there is no boost) the injectors are injecting at a fixed pulse width, so the only way to get more fuel into the engine from an injector that is operating at a fixed injector pulse is to increase the pressure of the fuel being sprayed. The problem is that the stock fuel pump operating at stock voltage can not deliver 100-110 PSI without some help. CT added a Boost-a-pump (BAP) or voltage doubler to take the normal 13.8vdc being feed into the fuel pump and kick it up to about 16vdc while the car is in boost. The increased voltage causes the pump to turn faster and pump more fuel. The added fuel being pumped combined with the adjustable FMU allows the injector rail pressure to jump to 100 PSI and push more fuel through the injectors.

If you decide to keep the CT fuel system, then the best thing you can do to improve that system is make sure the fuel system is working as well as possible:
1. Clean Injectors
2. New Fuel Filter
3. New Fuel Pump
4. Tune - not much to tune, you just adjust the base fuel pressure to allow for the proper peak pressure and AFR while in boost
5. I would recommend a wide band with logging options to monitor, Boost, fuel pressure, AFR, RPM, and Throttle position. A single ZT-2 with a few extra sensors will do all this.

If you decide to run a piggy back the most common one used with the OBD2 cars is the AEM F/IC. If you run the F/IC you can get rid of the BAP, ESM, and the FMU but you will be required to change the injectors to larger ones and the fuel pump will also need to be replaced. The advantage of the F/IC is we will have better control of the fuel system, we can now control the injector while the car is in boost, we can run stock fuel pressures, we can retard timing while in boost, and we get rid of the BAP that can over stress a fuel pump and cause it to fail earlier than normal.

If you decide to run the AEM F/IC you will need:
1. New injectors 440-550cc are recommended (I think it is best to run an injector that is similar in design and latency to the OEM injector so I do not recommend running the RDX injector with the F/IC)
2. New Fuel Filter
3. New Fuel Pump
4. AEM F/IC
5. Plug N Play Harness for OBD2 Car and F/IC
6. Tune - You will need to tune the car on a dyno with a tuner that understands the F/IC
7. I would recommend a wide band with logging options to monitor, Boost, fuel pressure, AFR, RPM, and Throttle position. A single ZT-2 with a few extra sensors will do all this. However if you only add an AFR Sensor you can connect the sensor to the F/IC and log within the AEM F/IC software but it will require you to have a laptop connected to the F/IC to do the logging. I would still choose the ZT-2 and wire its AFR output to the F/IC. If you want additional data the ZT-2 can log those sensors as well.

The other option if emissions are not an issue is to add an after marker ECU to run the engine, the AEM Series2 ECU or Infinity ECU are both used with the NSX and are supported to varying degrees by a few different vendors. If you go this route you have a lot more to think about and your tune and tuner will be critical to your success. There are other options in aftermarket ECUs but the AEM will be the easiest path.

If you plan to track a low boost CTSC keeping the Intake Air Temps in check are the most important and most difficult thing to do because of the CTSC design. If you do not control the IATs you will not make the power you want and you will loose power lap after lap as the temps increase. The power loss is something you will feel while on track and will likely feel on the street as well. A 3.2l CTSC with the standard pulley will have no problem making 340-350 whp and can make more. The following Dyno sheet is from a 3.2l with a CTSC Whipple, 6lb pulley, RC550cc Injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump and AEM F/IC using the OEM fuel pressure regulator.

<img src="http://www.nsxprime.com/photopost/data/500/medium/02_CTSC_Dyno.jpg" />

One other thing we need to clarify, if you have AEM serial gauges they will only work with the AEM Series2 ECU as they require a data stream from an AEM ECU to function, they will not work with the AEM F/IC or as stand alone gauges so make sure what you have is what you need. If you go with the ZT-2 for your AFR and logging they make all kinds of gauges and data displays to show the collected data in gauge form.

Dave
 
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Great write up as always Dave.
 
Sorry looks like I am a little late to the party.

You have a few options and some of the information posted in the above posts do not take into account the OBD2 OEM ECU in your car. To clear a few things up and get you going I have tried to sum up your options but I have a question for you as well.

1. Do you have a plug in emissions test in your area?

OK, since you have an OBD2 NSX and most likely have a plug in emissions test you will have to pass you have two real choices, Keep the CTSC fuel system and improve it a little or add a piggy back and improve it a lot. If you have no emissions testing to worry about then you are free to consider a stand-a-lone ECU like the AEM Series 2 ECU or Infinity ECU.

The Comptech fuel system is really a bit of a bandaid but it works for what it is, what it does is trick the car into thinking it is a WOT with no boost any time the car is really in boost. It does this using a voltage clamp on the MAP sensor, CT calls this an ESM. This is needed to keep the OEM ECU from seeing any boost as it will go into limp mode without the voltage clamp. Once the ECU is prevented from going into limp mode and thinks the car is running at WOT without boost you have to have a way of increasing the fuel being added to the combustion process to account for the added air from the boost. The CT fuel system does this without changing the injectors by increasing fuel pressure while the car is in boost relative to the boost pressure. CT does this by replacing the stock fuel pressure regulator with an adjustable unit they call an FMU. The FMU will allow the fuel pressure to be increased to as much as 100-110 PSI from the stock fuel pressures of 50-60 PSI. Since the OEM ECU is no longer calculating the amount of fuel needed for boost (remember the ESM has told the ECU the car is running at WOT and there is no boost) the injectors are injecting at a fixed pulse width, so the only way to get more fuel into the engine from an injector that is operating at a fixed injector pulse is to increase the pressure of the fuel being sprayed. The problem is that the stock fuel pump operating at stock voltage can not deliver 100-110 PSI without some help. CT added a Boost-a-pump (BAP) or voltage doubler to take the normal 13.8vdc being feed into the fuel pump and kick it up to about 16vdc while the car is in boost. The increased voltage causes the pump to turn faster and pump more fuel. The added fuel being pumped combined with the adjustable FMU allows the injector rail pressure to jump to 100 PSI and push more fuel through the injectors.

If you decide to keep the CT fuel system, then the best thing you can do to improve that system is make sure the fuel system is working as well as possible:
1. Clean Injectors
2. New Fuel Filter
3. New Fuel Pump
4. Tune - not much to tune, you just adjust the base fuel pressure to allow for the proper peak pressure and AFR while in boost
5. I would recommend a wide band with logging options to monitor, Boost, fuel pressure, AFR, RPM, and Throttle position. A single ZT-2 with a few extra sensors will do all this.

If you decide to run a piggy back the most common one used with the OBD2 cars is the AEM F/IC. If you run the F/IC you can get rid of the BAP, ESM, and the FMU but you will be required to change the injectors to larger ones and the fuel pump will also need to be replaced. The advantage of the F/IC is we will have better control of the fuel system, we can now control the injector while the car is in boost, we can run stock fuel pressures, we can retard timing while in boost, and we get rid of the BAP that can over stress a fuel pump and cause it to fail earlier than normal.

If you decide to run the AEM F/IC you will need:
1. New injectors 440-550cc are recommended (I think it is best to run an injector that is similar in design and latency to the OEM injector so I do not recommend running the RDX injector with the F/IC)
2. New Fuel Filter
3. New Fuel Pump
4. AEM F/IC
5. Plug N Play Harness for OBD2 Car and F/IC
6. Tune - You will need to tune the car on a dyno with a tuner that understands the F/IC
7. I would recommend a wide band with logging options to monitor, Boost, fuel pressure, AFR, RPM, and Throttle position. A single ZT-2 with a few extra sensors will do all this. However if you only add an AFR Sensor you can connect the sensor to the F/IC and log within the AEM F/IC software but it will require you to have a laptop connected to the F/IC to do the logging. I would still choose the ZT-2 and wire its AFR output to the F/IC. If you want additional data the ZT-2 can log those sensors as well.

The other option if emissions are not an issue is to add an after marker ECU to run the engine, the AEM Series2 ECU or Infinity ECU are both used with the NSX and are supported to varying degrees by a few different vendors. If you go this route you have a lot more to think about and your tune and tuner will be critical to your success. There are other options in aftermarket ECUs but the AEM will be the easiest path.

If you plan to track a low boost CTSC keeping the Intake Air Temps in check are the most important and most difficult thing to do because of the CTSC design. If you do not control the IATs you will not make the power you want and you will loose power lap after lap as the temps increase. The power loss is something you will feel while on track and will likely feel on the street as well. A 3.2l CTSC with the standard pulley will have no problem making 340-350 whp and can make more. The following Dyno sheet is from a 3.2l with a CTSC Whipple, 6lb pulley, RC550cc Injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump and AEM F/IC using the OEM fuel pressure regulator.

02_CTSC_Dyno.jpg


One other thing we need to clarify, if you have AEM serial gauges they will only work with the AEM Series2 ECU as they require a data stream from an AEM ECU to function, they will not work with the AEM F/IC or as stand alone gauges so make sure what you have is what you need. If you go with the ZT-2 for your AFR and logging they make all kinds of gauges and data displays to show the collected data in gauge form.

Dave

Brilliant! No emissions testing in my area. Nate from Comptec mentioned I could upgrade my fuel pump. Thanks for providing so much detail. Anyone will benefit from this information. Now I am split between going OEM vs. AEM.

Great write up as always Dave.

Agreed this is a great write up. My IQ around FI has increased exponentially by the power of ten. :smile:
 
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