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Should you / Did you replace clamps when doing cooling hose change

Joined
18 November 2011
Messages
441
Location
Falcon Heights, MN - no Falcons - no Heights
Getting ready to order my cooling hoses for my 94.
Went to the retailer pages and made a list - removing "pipes" (metal tubes) for the cooling hose upgrade.

The clamps might be $200 of my expenses.
Is it overkill to replace the clamps?
I could order a few that could go "boing" into the night
- but I could order all to have the assurance that the old ones have not relaxed.

Any opinions? (I'll feel bad if the manual next to me says replace).

Al
 
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Repeated flexing of the clamps by R&R contributes to metal fatigue. If your clamps have never been pulled off then fatigue is probably not an issue. If you decide to replace, just make sure you do not use cheese grater hose clamps from the hardware store. Go OEM or a stainless steel banded clamp such as those made by ABA.
 
I replaced my hoses a few years back.
I ruined one clamp in the process so replaced it, the rest were fine, so I wouldn't order new clamps.

However I really recommend a set of long handles pliers like these.
images.jpg

and a set of mechanics gloves like these.
imagesCLYAK24G.jpg

The above will not only help save your clamps they will definitely save you having to replace your hands :smile:

Another suggestion to help remove the old hoses is split them with a box cutter, being very careful not to score the aluminum pipes underneath.
And use some lube inside the replacement hoses to help slide them on.
 
I was going to get a clamp pliers like this - any comments?

View attachment 118712

I've not used pliers like those in the pic and they may be just the thing to get.
Once you get in there you'll find it gets pretty tight in some areas, so I found several different tools helps.
I might add, it really helps if you note the position of the clamps on the old hoses as in some areas they need to be in the same position after the change or the clamps can rub on the hoses.
 
If the clamps are getting replaced they will be with OEM ones.
I read about the screw stainless clamps cutting into the hoses.
I was going to get a clamp pliers like this - any comments?

View attachment 118712

I just completed all of mine on my '91 except for at the oil cooler. Those are coming this week along with an oil change.

I bought those same pliers at Sears and in my opinion are worth their weight in gold. Get them. A good pick set works wonders for pulling up the old hoses to slice 'em with a razor so you stay away from the nipples. Autozone has small packs of radiator hose grease that's not supposed to degrade the hose. Worked great. I felt like someone beat me afterwards but it's nice to know where they all are and how to replace 'em. Harbor Freight has a cheap set of hose pliers that came in handy too especially getting at all the small bypass hoses. Shoot me any questions you might have as it's all still fresh on my mind.
 
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the grease I use regular motor oil, lube inside the hose then lube the pipe slides on once, the oil is pushed out and it dry so you can turn the hose anymore.
 
NEVER NEVER NEVER use petroleum products on rubber hoses. It makes rubber swell and deteriorate. Only use silicone spray or o-ring lube. (the stuff from the swimming pool store (Jack's O-Ring Lube) is great;).

Regards,
LarryB

the grease I use regular motor oil, lube inside the hose then lube the pipe slides on once, the oil is pushed out and it dry so you can turn the hose anymore.
 
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NEVER NEVER NEVER use petroleum products on rubber hoses. It makes rubber swell and deteriorate. Only use silicone spray or o-ring lube. (the stuff from the swimming pool store (Jack's O-Ring Lube) is great;).

Regards,
LarryB

+1 I use "Pool & Spa Lube" from Leslie's Pool Supply. The hoses go on like butter and there is no danger to the rubber. It also makes them come off easier. Thanks to LarryB for that tip. ;)

The OEM clamps can break. When my car was in for a new rad in 2012, Acura found 3 broken clamps- 2 on the engine bay mains! :eek:
 
This is an other REALLY HANDY tool for removing hoses. It is called a Cotter Key Extractor

http://local.sears.com/Cotter-Key-Extractor/p-00904319000P?st=1229&sid=IDx20141117x00001xlpla#!/

Remove the clamp, or just move it down the hose, then work the hook end of this tool between the end of the hose and the tube it is stuck to, work it ALL THE WAY AROUND to break the seal and remove the hose. Use the tool to PUSH the hose off as you gently pull. If you ONLY PULL the hose, it tightens on the tube.

I always reuse the spring steel clamps, never had a problem with them. People have a tendency to over tighten the screw clamps. Remember there is less than 20 PSI in the operating coolant system.

Brad
 
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Silicone lube - check
Cotter key extractor - check
Gloves - check
Pliers - check
I also am going to try a strap wrench to try to free the hoses before pulling.
I'm a slow mover - but got till spring to get er done.
Maybe I will try to write up.

Thanks guys - Al
 
Even though it's a couple hundred bucks, I plan to change all of mine since mine aren't as bling bling as new ones are.
 
Albert,
If you have a hose that is really stuck combine the Cotter Key Extractor with a little Silicone Lube. Unless you have a lot of room to work I've never had much luck with the strap wrench.
Brad
 
Al-

You might want to get a red scotchbrite pad to clean up the water passage nipples- most are usually pretty badly corroded- especially if your coolant has not been done at the proper intervals.

Paul
 
Double check OLDMNSX / Honcho (Paul).
I may have struggled to come up with the lube with the extractor - better crossing a bridge with someone else's know how.
...
I am usually anal about cleaning existing parts before moving on - but great thoughts on the scotchbrite.

Took a peek last weekend - pulled the tunnel cover - everything looks clean.
Squeezed a few hoses - seem fine - so why am I doing this ... cause you all said so.
Will get all clamps - will look real nice for next owner (when I die).
 
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