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high hp axle problems

Thanks for sharing.
 
Wonder what the interest level would be for something like this. I'm sure there is a metal out there these days that could increase the strength.
 
Wonder what the interest level would be for something like this. I'm sure there is a metal out there these days that could increase the strength.
I think if you make the tripod stronger something else will break. I like that this breaks as it is easy to fix and not too expensive. If you start spilitting transaxles or other parts it can get very expensive. This is kinda like a shear pin that breaks should the drivetrain see too much shock. JMO
 
I think if you make the tripod stronger something else will break. I like that this breaks as it is easy to fix and not too expensive. If you start spilitting transaxles or other parts it can get very expensive. This is kinda like a shear pin that breaks should the drivetrain see too much shock. JMO

I have had two axle failures and I was at the 450whp range but it was after a lot of track time. One of mine the "tripod" failed the other the bearing holder failed and the rest of the bearings had signs of a failure being eminent. A note for anyone taking their axels apart either for rebuild or repair - DO NOT use the Honda Grease that comes with the boot kits, use Redline CV Grease. Also make sure you mark the joint orientation on both ends to make sure the shaft goes back together the same way. I am not sure if it matters but I also make sure the bearings go back in the same place and in the same direction, may not matter but it is just what I do.

I have not found a source for the bearing or the tripod separate from buying an entire joint. If you have information or a source for the parts please share.

Thanks for the video.

Dave
 
Anyone use the vented axle boot method?

Redline CV Grease, vented boots, 3+ years of track use with no failures. I am not so sure the vents make that much difference but it costs nothing to do it so why not, I have more faith in the better grease.

Dave
 
I have not found a source for the bearing or the tripod separate from buying an entire joint. If you have information or a source for the parts please share.
Dave

The tripods and bearings are universal. I have had good luck with the replacement axle linked below on the driver side... so I bought a few more to use for spare parts. At $70 shipped to your door it is cheap enough just to scavenge these tripods and bearings from if you need to rebuild the passenger side:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCNP0ZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use redline CV-2 grease, but no vented boots. If I were to take it to a track, then I would consider venting the boots temporarily. But, I would then remove the tube vents for the street in case I were to get caught in some rain.

Also - I'm with MrBozo. Even though rebuilding these are time-consuming, I would rather them be the weak point instead of something else.

Dave
 
I haven't had a problem yet with my axles...yet. They've been regreased every 15k miles roughly but that was due to transmission being out of the car for one reason or another.

What is everyone's thoughts on regreasing the boots w/o uninstalling the axles? Since i'm on the Honda OEM grease (the yellow stuff) now i'd like to swap this out with Redline CV grease, however, it seems easy enough to keep the axles on and just slide the boot over, wash out the old grease and pack the bearings again with new grease?

I've also had a problem with having grease splatter all around there. I'm not yet sure if that's grease oozing out of the vents or if the strap being loose - IT IS QUITE ANNOYING actually because it gets everywhere.
 
What is everyone's thoughts on regreasing the boots w/o uninstalling the axles? Since i'm on the Honda OEM grease (the yellow stuff) now i'd like to swap this out with Redline CV grease, however, it seems easy enough to keep the axles on and just slide the boot over, wash out the old grease and pack the bearings again with new grease?

Hey Regan,

One thing to consider is if your new grease is incompatible with the old Honda stuff. IIRC, the redline CV-2 is compatible, but you should check. I guess you could do it when on the car, but empty a few cans of brake cleaner in there. Also, make sure to get the length set correctly when banding the boots back up.

I know when I was going down the path of turning mine into a track rat, I looked into the grease the Porsche guys use. I forget what it is called, but the stuff is like 10 times more expensive than the Redline CV-2... and it wasn't compatible with anything else. I figured why buy the expensive grease if I were planning on going through axles every two years anyways?

My $0.02.

Dave
 
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I was told by Shad, I think, that the bearings in this replacement shaft were not OEM quality and that others had tried to track on the shaft and did not have good luck. For a street driven car with stock power levels I would think this is a great option compared to buying a used unit or new OEM unit. When my shafts failed I rebuilt them using the factory joints but I do have one of the above listed shafts in my track parts box for emergency track side repairs. Really I keep it there because if I have it with me I am less likely to need to use it, if I leave it at home I am sure to break a shaft.

My first shaft failure was on the passenger side and was at Putnam Park Road Course. It was on a Saturday, and cost me a Sunday of track time. My second shaft started to fail on my 3rd day at COTA and I only missed two session of a three day weekend. Since then I carry the parts and tools to do the repair at the track hoping that I never have to. I do rebuild them every season by cleaning and replacing the grease.

Dave
 
I was told by Shad, I think, that the bearings in this replacement shaft were not OEM quality and that others had tried to track on the shaft and did not have good luck. For a street driven car with stock power levels I would think this is a great option compared to buying a used unit or new OEM unit. When my shafts failed I rebuilt them using the factory joints but I do have one of the above listed shafts in my track parts box for emergency track side repairs. Really I keep it there because if I have it with me I am less likely to need to use it, if I leave it at home I am sure to break a shaft.

Do you know why Shad stopped selling his axle upgrade kits?

There are a few different vendors that sell these cheap Chinese driver axles (Autozone, Amazon, etc). I wonder if they come from the same factory? I know there are at least three of us on Prime with these. I'm one of the two that are making over 400WHP (I'm at about 550WHP, but more importantly I have ~400 ft-lb of torque to the wheels from 3K to 7.5k RPM). Haven't had a problem, but I haven't tracked it yet and I haven't put too many miles on it.

We'll see....
 
Do you know why Shad stopped selling his axle upgrade kits?

There are a few different vendors that sell these cheap Chinese driver axles (Autozone, Amazon, etc). I wonder if they come from the same factory? I know there are at least three of us on Prime with these. I'm one of the two that are making over 400WHP (I'm at about 550WHP, but more importantly I have ~400 ft-lb of torque to the wheels from 3K to 7.5k RPM). Haven't had a problem, but I haven't tracked it yet and I haven't put too many miles on it.

We'll see....

His upgrade parts did not last as well as the OEM parts. The issue with his upgrade and the aftermarket shaft was the rigors of track duty. The bearings really take a beating inside the cup as the axle is loaded and unloaded. This is exaggerated if the driver is unable to rev match for high RPM downshifts. The bearings seam to be the failure from track use and the tripod seams to be the failure from increased TQ if the tire has the traction to hold the TQ. The OEM bearings appear to be stronger and when combined with a higher quality grease more reliable. As a minimum if you plan on running the aftermarket shaft change the grease as I am sure the Chinese shaft will have run of the mill axle grease.

I think the reason that shaft is available is it may cross to another Honda/Acura product, but I am not sure. I am not sure why they only offer the one side.

Dave
 
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The bearings seam to be the failure from track use and the tripod seams to be the failure from increased TQ if the tire has the traction to hold the TQ. The OEM bearings appear to be stronger and when combined with a higher quality grease more reliable. As a minimum if you plan on running the aftermarket shaft change the grease as I am sure the Chinese shaft will have run of the mill axle grease.

My drivers side went, so I just popped the replacement Chinese one in. Before installing, I did pull the boots back and clean/repack with the Redline CV-2 grease. The boots seemed to be of decent quality. If it fails I will do a proper inspection.

When I used to buy the Acura boot kits from the dealer, I would open up the packages then and there to hand them that yellow crap back!
 
How many Ounces do you reckon to do a full re-grease of all 4 boots? I'm thinking of buying 4 of these but don't want to overpack the boots either. Thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-8040...98&sr=1-2&keywords=redline+cv2#productDetails

I buy the jars instead of the tubes. I just find it easier to work with. You need 1 jar per axle, split it evenly per joint and your done.

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-8040...bs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ZQJ4W5RSKVYQZAQ9AXX

Dave
 
I plan on upgrading to Insane Shafts. Has anyone run those for the NSX? They have good success with high hp in other vehicles.
 
Hey Regan,

One thing to consider is if your new grease is incompatible with the old Honda stuff. IIRC, the redline CV-2 is compatible, but you should check. I guess you could do it when on the car, but empty a few cans of brake cleaner in there. Also, make sure to get the length set correctly when banding the boots back up.

I know when I was going down the path of turning mine into a track rat, I looked into the grease the Porsche guys use. I forget what it is called, but the stuff is like 10 times more expensive than the Redline CV-2... and it wasn't compatible with anything else. I figured why buy the expensive grease if I were planning on going through axles every two years anyways?

My $0.02.

Dave

I buy the jars instead of the tubes. I just find it easier to work with. You need 1 jar per axle, split it evenly per joint and your done.

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-8040...bs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ZQJ4W5RSKVYQZAQ9AXX

Dave
Thanks guys. I'm not looking forward to swapping out that grease
 
Has no one tried driveshaftshop axles? I am connected with those guys/ a distributor if there is interest...

There have been a few sets used, It has been a while since I have seen anyone talk about them. In days gone by the early high HP guys would snap the OEM shafts and then change the OEM shaft to stronger shafts, that would move the point of failure in the driveline to the transmission. Personally I would replace 10 shafts before I would want to replace a transmission so I am happy with a well maintained OEM shaft. The OEM shaft is plenty strong enough to handle the power levels I am at. Sometimes having the strongest parts money can buy is not the best thing unless all your parts are the strongest money can buy. We do not have many options to strengthen the transmission and the cost associated with a trans build are ridiculous.

Dave
 
Driveshaftshop do have a set of Nsx shafts in development. Includes both sides but doesn't include the intermediate shaft i don't believe.

They will be rated for high HP.

Apparently will be ready in a few weeks time.
 
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