brake/duct/tire setup for my 1st time attack

I am having my 1st time attack event with my NSX. I will compare two different tires for me and you.

Event: The biggest import car meet in Europe - EUROSPEEDWAY - LAUSITZRING. Sorry, I think it is only german
http://www.reisbrennen.de/
http://www.timeattack.de/info.html

Bridgestone Potenza RE050A on CE28n 7.5x17 et43mm with 215/40/17 and 9x17 et40mm with 255/40/17
Federal 595 RS-R 215/40/17 and 255/40/17 on some old SSR 2-piece rims 8x17 et41mm and 9.5x17 et49mm
KW V3 Coilovers
Carbotech AX6 front and rear pads
OEM NA2 brake upgrade with Dixcel AP rotors and braided SS lines
DOT 5.0 Castrol brake fluid
brake cooling-ducts, 2inch
curb weight 1/2 filled up tank: 2820lbs incl driver

What do you think. MY contrahents are some Nissan 370z in the "CLUB" class. ....if they perform as bad as on the 1/4 mile, than this should be easy for me. I have 8 years track experience with my Turbo ITR with 515hp (I retired the car and sold it 3 years back)

I thought this is the best location where the fresh air should be blown on the disc. At the center, near the hub, the air get sucked into the rotors and blows out at the outer side of the disc.

I don't know which spot is best however when I mounted mine recently I installed them to the back of the rotor for two reasons; 1. was so that I could get the duct direct on to the face of the rotor 2. its closer to where my new guards are vented helping get the extra air out from the guards/fenders. I also left plenty of extra tubing bunched up for stretch and flexing of suspension and turning

Don't you protect your ballbearing boots with some heat shield? This location is also nice, since there is space where the air can flow into the center of the rotor. What rims with offset do you run, I am interessted cause I see you have Spoon calipers and I do not know if they would fit my ce28n with 7.5x17 and offset 43mm

Surely would be better to remove the splash guards totally and have the ducted air blowing to the middle of the pad face?

scammy said:

I don't know which spot is best however when I mounted mine recently I installed them to the back of the rotor for two reasons; 1. was so that I could get the duct direct on to the face of the rotor 2. its closer to where my new guards are vented helping get the extra air out from the guards/fenders. I also left plenty of extra tubing bunched up for stretch and flexing of suspension and turning
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hey scammy, curious as to why you still have the a/c radiators etc installed? Benefit of removal allows weight loss and better air flow to brakes. Imo nz has never been warm enough for a/c

On my NSX, I had a hole cut in the splash shields, a flange welded onto the edges of the hole, and the cooling ducts zip-tied to the flange. That way they were directing the cooling air directly onto the surface of the rotors.

austrian type-R said:

DOT 5.0 Castrol brake fluid

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I hope you don't mean DOT 5.0. DOT 5.0 brake fluid is silicone-based brake fluid (SBBF) and cannot be mixed with non-silicone brake fluids such as DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1, and it's generally a bad idea for usage in an NSX. Castrol makes several brake fluids; their most popular brake fluid for racing in the States is Castrol SRF, which is a DOT 4 fluid with boiling points of 590ºF dry and 518ºF wet. If you need the high temperature rating of a DOT 5.0 brake fluid, there are DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids that have comparable temperature ratings, so you can do that without going to SBBF. Some of those fluids have a higher dry boiling point (over 600ºF) than Castrol SRF, so they're an even better choice for racetrack usage. Castrol SRF has perhaps the highest wet boiling point, so it's a good choice if you are in a very humid climate and/or if you need to leave the fluid in the car for long periods of time without flushing it.

vandale said:

hey scammy, curious as to why you still have the a/c radiators etc installed? Benefit of removal allows weight loss and better air flow to brakes. Imo nz has never been warm enough for a/c

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I still drive her on the road as well, although mainly track work now days and as you know it rains here a lot and you need the A/C to clear the windscreen also on a hot summer day even here you still need some cooling, if it was a pure track car everything would be gone and a cage in her by now. We have been arguing about removing the weight but the comfort factor wins out. [MENTION=9710]austrian type-R[/MENTION] I use Motul RBF660 brake fluid

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austrian type-R said:

Don't you protect your ballbearing boots with some heat shield? This location is also nice, since there is space where the air can flow into the center of the rotor. What rims with offset do you run, I am interessted cause I see you have Spoon calipers and I do not know if they would fit my ce28n with 7.5x17 and offset 43mm

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I removed the heat shields years ago to reduce the heat build up on the front rotors otherwise I would have done what nsxtacy did do, the track set up is 17x8-38 offset with Nitto NT01 235 /40/17 only rubs at full lock and clears the Spoons by about 5mm

oh yeah, sorry, I mean 5.1 Castrol

scammy said:

I still drive her on the road as well, although mainly track work now days and as you know it rains here a lot and you need the A/C to clear the windscreen also on a hot summer day even here you still need some cooling, if it was a pure track car everything would be gone and a cage in her by now. We have been arguing about removing the weight but the comfort factor wins out. @austrian type-R I use Motul RBF660 brake fluid

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ah yes sounds like a good balance. Off topic: are you running in the charity cruise at crc this weekend? I am ;-)

vandale said:

ah yes sounds like a good balance. Off topic: are you running in the charity cruise at crc this weekend? I am ;-)

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No not this year the car is on display for a paint restoration company, I will head out for a look Sunday arvo

Good luck to you @austrian type-R !

On stock brakes I would remove the dust shield. However, in my setup I kept the dust shield but cut the small holes like the NSX-R on a 4 wheel 330mm/355mm BBK setup. Even on a hard braking track (e.g. Laguna Seca) on DOT R-Comps, I don't experience any brake fade. I did experience significant brake fade on my stock NA2 brake setup on the same dust shield with the Dali brake ducts (not the hose like you did) on Star Specs. Perhaps, if I removed the dust shields and did the ducting like you did it might have been ok... I don't know. Just food for thought...

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You might want to PM [MENTION=25108]illwillem[/MENTION] perhaps. He's way faster than me, on a lighter NA car, and on stock brakes and he seems to do just fine. I do not know if he's removed his dust shield though.

If you remove the dust shields, you may want to wrap the ball joints with heat reflective material to protect it from brakes radiant heat... which I plan to do.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/impp-1103-protecting-your-suspension-tricks-of-the-trade/

GUNDAN323 said:

If you remove the dust shields, you may want to wrap the ball joints with heat reflective material to protect it from brakes radiant heat... which I plan to do.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/ho...otecting-your-suspension-tricks-of-the-trade/

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Good idea I was wondering about what to do with the heat to the ball joints, [MENTION=9710]austrian type-R[/MENTION] I think any air you get on there will be a huge improvement no matter where it is as long as it helps cool the brakes it must be better than not doing it. I read somewhere a long time ago that the shields removed helped with up to 100deg of heat build up. I have done two track days now with the ducting and I reckon it is way better and dont see a need for a BBK the Spoons are doing the job nicely although a 2 piece rotor for more weight saving would be nice.

GUNDAN323 said:

If you remove the dust shields, you may want to wrap the ball joints with heat reflective material to protect it from brakes radiant heat... which I plan to do.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/ho...otecting-your-suspension-tricks-of-the-trade/

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This is great, thanks Gundan!

The dust shields will hold the heat in, like an oven. If you remove them and duct some air through you can get the temps down too a manageable level. Like Regan said I personally run OEM calipers w/no ABS on my track car and I have found them totally fine for the 15-20 min HPDE sessions. I DID remove my dust shields and used them too make heat shields for the ball joints, youll want too keep an eye on the grease in the rear boots too.

I just came across my thread again. Well, I got out 2nd in my class, zero overheating problems with the brakes and it was a super hot day with 35 degree celsius. I liked the Federals very much. Since I did not get the 215/40/17 front I had to use a Toyo R888 in 205/40/17 in combo with the Federal 255/40/17 rear. It worked pretty well.

I am deciding now if I should go wider next year for 235/40/17 (95,90 Euro) and 275/40/17 (94,30 Euro) or 285/30/18 (147,90 Euro). This Federal is so super cheap, it has a realy good price performance IMO. I think the contact patch of both rear tires is about equal since the 275/40/17 has more diameter. What do you think? Should I go with the 17 or the 18 inch rear? I have a 9.5x17 and a 10.5x18 both BBS 2-piece MAG rims.

thanks

You want to duct the air inside the rotor so the air is pumped through the rotor vanes:



You don't want to duct the air to the rotor face itself, which does not cool the rotor nearly as good and causes the inside rotor face to be cooler than the outside.

yeah, thats what i have done.

After removing the dust shields, I used heat reflective tape that is safety wired to protect the ball joints.

One roll of this was plenty with some left over.
Thermo-Tec 14002 1 1/2" X 15' Thermo-Shield Roll
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029KC2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_11WIwbMZXN2PY

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/impp-1103-protecting-your-suspension-tricks-of-the-trade/