Problem with OEM Clutch on my 1991 Acura NSX

Hi, I am having trouble with the clutch on my 1991 Acura NSX. Regardless of my usage , I have to replace the OEM clutch in 3 years.
Last I changed the OEM clutch in September, 2012 and must have only driven the car for 2000 odd kilometers.

What could be the reason? Is it a possibility that the OEM clutch disc disintegrates due to humid weather and because the car is not used regularly?

Is there an aftermarket clutch company that I can look at which can last longer but has the same comfort level as the OEM clutch?

Your help in some info on the above material will be appreciated.

I can see the problem straight away....looking at your avatar...

Are you saying that the friction discs have broken down each time but have minimal wear?

Avatar

Hi,

The AVATAR is a pic I copied from the net -- thats not me :smile:

Hmm. I live in NJ where summers get hot & humid (but not quite as hot as India), and my clutch discs ('96 with OEM dual-disc) were less than 50% worn after 50,000 miles (80,000 km) & 14 years. The problem I had was the clutch squealing at the point of engagement. That turned out to be the release bearing. The bearing got stiff, but still turned smoothly by hand with no noise. The noise was the bearing not spinning immediately when initially engaging the pressure plate fingers. This supposedly is somewhat common from the disc dust collecting in the bearing over long periods of time.

A new bearing corrected the squeal.

Questions:
1. Is the entire assembly being replaced - pressure plate, mid plate, flywheel, both discs, and release bearing?
2. NSX OEM clutches engage/release very close to the floor. I don't mean to insult you, but are you driving with your foot resting on the clutch pedal? Even a light pressure can cause slipping.
3. What are the qualifications/experience of the mechanic doing the clutch replacement?

Every time I have had to replace the clutch , the NSX clutch would not engage - the NSX would not move.

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Hi.

I never could get more than 2000 odd kms from my clutch ever since I got the NSX in 2003.

Answers to Questions:
1. Is the entire assembly being replaced - pressure plate, mid plate, flywheel, both discs, and release bearing?
Answer - Yes, everytime I replaced the whole kit.

2. NSX OEM clutches engage/release very close to the floor. I don't mean to insult you, but are you driving with your foot resting on the clutch pedal? Even a light pressure can cause slipping.
Answer - In this case , the clutch started very close to the top , infact the last I drove the NSX , there was hardly any ply in the clutch travel and engaged right as soon as I pressed the clutch.

3. What are the qualifications/experience of the mechanic doing the clutch replacement?
Answer - The workshop handles all super cares like Ferrari's , Lambo's etc etc.

rednsx3 said:

Answer - In this case , the clutch started very close to the top , infact the last I drove the NSX , there was hardly any ply in the clutch travel and engaged right as soon as I pressed the clutch.

Click to expand...

This seems bad. The service manual specifies the amount of free play and that is important so the clutch does not slip when you are not pressing the pedal. There is a hole in the master cylinder and the pedal must allow the piston to move back enough for the hole to open. That way the expanding fluid (as it heats) has somewhere to go. Without sufficient free play, it's possible that it was slipping at least some, which could destroy it prematurely, I would think.

I remember Kaz stating that the engagement point changes as the clutch wears down. Does it move up or towards the floor?

I'm referring to the 1995 Service Manual. Check the online manuals to see if there is anything different for a 1991.
Page 12-4 (Transaxle, clutch section) is for pedal adjustment. That needs to be followed exactly for adjusting your pedal to get proper clutch release/engagement points.

Someone may have messed up the adjustment a long time ago. Once it is set right, it shouldn't need to be adjusted again. To quote this page from the manual "The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear."

Its only a single page in the manual, so if you (or your mechanic) don't have it, I can scan the page and post it here.