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How screwed am I?

Sma

New Member
Joined
11 November 2014
Messages
6
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Hello fine folks of Prime! Sorry for the boring story, but I was hoping to get some insight from you guys about a recurring problem I have.

About 50 miles into a long trip yesterday I noticed the feeling in my clutch pedal changed when taking off from a light. It sort of popped and the clutch pedal seemed to be a little shaky when slightly engaged. Engagement (Comptech powergrip 1)was lower than previously and it was pretty tough to get it into gear.

I figured next chance I get I'd turn around and head home. Unfortunately, while turning in a very busy intersection, my clutch pedal goes to the floor and kills the engine. So in desperation to get out of everyone's way, I put it in 1st and used the starter motor to get me going again. When I pulled over I found the clutch slave cylinder in pieces and the clutch release hanger ripped from it's attachment points (the picture of me holding it)! Virtually the same thing happened 2 yrs and 7,000 miles ago to my previous clutch (other picture)- also a Comptech powergrip 1. That previous clutch had only 12,000 miles on it! Have you guys heard of anything like this happening before? Is the comptech clutch plate THAT stiff that it destroys everything in it's way? Or am I really that terrible a driver? Ugh, I'm gonna go find myself a nice CVT rental as punishment....
Thanks for the input
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Your f-ed

New transmission case needed.

Aftermarket will bite you in the azz everytime. never seen an OEM do that ever.
 
Get an expert alloy welder to reattach and build up some weld to strengthen it. The when reassembling don't swing on it to hard with your wrench. I have done this on race cars before and it works a treat. Looks ugly but worth a try
 
Yup, just what I feared- I need at the very least a new transmission case. How would you folks proceed? Should I look for a new/rebuilt transmission to go along with the case? I've had zero issues with the transmission internals, but I am at 113k miles.
 

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For god sakes don't go and buy another complete transmission. Have the tranny taken to a reputable rebuild shop since it's out, it probably needs a ring and bearing kit and a health check / magnet cleaning.

Take the clutch case (the part of the transmission that the clutch fork attaches to) to someone who can weld it back on and strengthen it in the process. All of that will cost you considerably less, and then you need to have the clutch pedal adjusted properly, you are overextending the clutch spring teeth that attach to the release bearing causing excess stress on the mounting dowels, or someone is over tightening those bolts that attach the fork bracket to the clutch case.

or if you want to just throw money at it buy a new clutch case for 1300 bucks + trans service 800 - 1200 depending on what it may need internally.

unless you grenade the trans you don't need to spend the money on a second complete transmission, unless you just like to spend money.
 
what no one has mentioned in this thread is if this is the second time then the clutch he is using would be a " get rid of it moment " return to OEM or a lesser clutch.

example : if a set of rims are ripping your fenders apart you change rims not keep fixing the fenders.

am I the only one that can see this?

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but welding it would be cheaper and have them weld a bunch of extra for strength adding
 
FWIW, that is an odd place and while some welders may attempt to repair it, I would'nt expect them to warranty it. There is no guarantee those welds would hold for long. That is a tough place to get too. It's going to be a gamble. I do wish you luck.
 
Just an observation: I do not see one spec of grease on any part in these pics. Not good....

My $.02

Regards,
LarryB
 
X2 on the lack of grease.

I do a ton of welding at my shop, this looks straight forward to repair. The only issue I see is its going to need to be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly before welding anything to it that is structural.

If it were me, I'd fix it because my labor is free (to me), but I have to think the linked trans for sale above in the long run is the safest and probably only slightly more expensive option since you already have the trans out.

Before putting that clutch back in, make sure you reach out to Comptech about this issue. It is likely they have seen this in the past and can advise a known solution or at least provide correct adjustment spec.

Being that your transmission is in good running order, you could recoup some money by selling it as is. Surely someone in this forum could use it as a spare by swapping bell housings or for parts.

Best of luck.
 
I agree with Larry no greese anywhere in the pics and that's not from wiping it down for the pics either.

Installer errors I would scream at the person that put it in " no lube = no fun "
 
LarryB always has the best jems of information. Didn't even think about the grease but good point ole chap.

I've always wondered if the fork assembly in the OEM setup was strong enough for these heavy clutches. Yours is the first one I've seen and this happened to you twice!

The clutch I use is the OS Giken STR2C. It comes with a billet fork assembly and a brand new reverse pull/push slave cylinder. I always forget if its push or pull. Their setup fixes all your issues except the aluminum damage on the case
For the price of a used trans I'd buy it. I believe a case alone (just the top one) is $800+labor. Not sure if you need top or bottom cases or both. You can try welding but I'd be concerned about the heat messing with the metallurgy of the case and potentially weakening it and I'd be concerned about the alignment of the fork. Clutches have to have very tight tolerances. I forsee a weld job as potentially causing for labor spent as you address issues later on. If it all comes out perfect the first time then great. How lucky do you feel? :D

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Some pics for your reference

 
Thanks for the input everyone! RYU- I honestly don't feel lucky at all, so I'm just going with a new case half. I'm going to drop off my transmission with Brian at Source 1 in Cincinnati and let him determine what it could use internally while installing the new case. I just happened to be driving by his shop this weekend! As far as what caused my failure- it very well may have something to do with the previous installer (local acura dealer). Check out this sorry flywheel resurfacing job they did...Also, at this point I'm leaning towards going with an OEM clutch. I could be talked into a different aftermarket clutch though, I mostly want something durable/less stiff.
 

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OEM is fantastic. SOS gets rave reviews on their sport unit though it has not been determined the lifespan with normal driving but I would suspect as long as OEM if you drive like me. I'm quite gentle on it.
 
what no one has mentioned in this thread is if this is the second time then the clutch he is using would be a " get rid of it moment " return to OEM or a lesser clutch.

example : if a set of rims are ripping your fenders apart you change rims not keep fixing the fenders.

am I the only one that can see this?

- - - Updated - - -

but welding it would be cheaper and have them weld a bunch of extra for strength adding

If you over stroke the clutch you will have the same problem if it is stock or aftermarket.
Clutch petal needs to be adjusted properly Period.
 
Just a quick review on the SOS clutch set up for you here. My stock clutch went (91 NSX w/178,000 miles and may not be the orig but was an OEM) and I purchased the SOS stage 1 kit which is a single disc with lightened flywheel and for me its great for everyday driving and feels very similar to OEM. I have almost 3,000 miles on it and was installed about 2years ago feels good and grabs good. Performance wise my car is basically stock except for a bolt on Cat back CT exh FYI.
 
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