• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Turbo kits for dummies

Joined
21 August 2013
Messages
132
Location
Elk Grove ca
Alright turbo pros,

the rest of us especially me are wondering what to do. Go safe with the CTSC because we are all afraid of the smog situations in California, or grow some balls and TURBO charge our cars so we can UP the boost when ever we need the power.

How safe is going the turbo route without building the engine and keeping all engine components as STOCK as possible ? Excluding the must have, bigger injectors, new engine management etc...

what are your personal opinions for us guys who would rather go turbo but don't have enough sincerity to go out of the box(CTSC) ?

twin turbo or single?

how high can we boost with the stock engine before it's no longer SAFE?

Also, I have 162k miles on my nsx, should I be afraid at this age of the vehicle?
 
You live in California a few miles from DA. That answers all your questions. Unless you care not to have your car impounded by the police department.
 
You live in California a few miles from DA. That answers all your questions. Unless you care not to have your car impounded by the police department.

DA is a good option, but the man is a really busy person. And sometimes I'd rather ask a neutral party rather than someone who's in the business side of opinions . No offense to anyone but all advise are welcome.
 
Honestly get a compression and leak down first. Then start thinking. If your motor is fine then you can plan the FI route. If it's not then you'll need to budget for a build. Then you can get into specifics. Without doing a leak down and compression test you won't know and this 10k limit can build to a 15-20k build real quick.

But if you live in CA it's pretty much predetermined you'll need to go supercharger.
 
Go turbo if you want all the drama - noises, lag then boost, issues with potential boost creep and scavenger pump, and the fun of asking your friend for a friend who knows a friend who has a friend that might know a guy to help with smog. Some people love the drama. Some will even say is more fun :)
 
Go turbo if you want all the drama - noises, lag then boost, issues with potential boost creep and scavenger pump, and the fun of asking your friend for a friend who knows a friend who has a friend that might know a guy to help with smog. Some people love the drama. Some will even say is more fun :)

Oh RYU, ............... All of the drama you describe about turbos (noises, lag then boost, issues with potential boost creep and scavenger pump) are no more or less of an issue then any other FI system if done correctly. The CA thing can be solved by moving to any of the 49 less restrictive state, but I understand that installing a CTSC with a CARB cert would be easier than moving.

noise - proper intake and exhaust
lag then boost - Aerocharger or properly sized turbo
boost creep - Aerocharger or conventional turbo with electronic boost control
scavenger pump - Aerocharger oil less turbos

I am of course bias, so take it for what it is worth. All FI systems have their virtues and their limitations.

Dave
 
I always listen to ^^^ Dave :)

However aerochargers are a unique kind of turbo similar to maybe the rotrex in the SC world. If [MENTION=4799]DDozier[/MENTION] ever came out with his kit and I lived in a different state things might be different for my NSX!
 
I always listen to ^^^ Dave :)

However aerochargers are a unique kind of turbo similar to maybe the rotrex in the SC world. If [MENTION=4799]DDozier[/MENTION] ever came out with his kit and I lived in a different state things might be different for my NSX!

I am building a few kits now, we will see how they go then maybe i will offer a box kit for others to install.

Dave
 
I think you also may want to consider what your ultimate goals are as well. I don't live in CA nor would I ever but when I went FI I considered a supercharger for maybe a minute. "It was never something I remotely considered". To me they are safe bolt on options with not much potential down the road. If you ever want more power out of certain units you need to change the belt but after that you are sol. A comptech supercharger only puts high 300's and high boost pulley or whatever you call it is low to mid 400's. Although the later option isn't bad what are your goals and personality as an individual and how long are you keeping the car.

The people with these setups are biased "myself included" and all have their reasons for such. There's always though the peanut gallery in CA that think super chargers are godly and justify their setups. Where's batmans at?
 
DA is a good option, but the man is a really busy person. And sometimes I'd rather ask a neutral party rather than someone who's in the business side of opinions . No offense to anyone but all advise are welcome.
It sounds like your goals are keeping the motor safe. If your ever in the bay and want to witness the ctsc in action, let me know. The beauty of the ctsc is the simplicity of the design. You maintain your oem ecu wheather low or high boost.
That means, you don't need a crap load of gauges or computers to monitor stuff or rely on some gear head at a tune shop to keep things safe by correctly tuning it. The simplicity is also the downside to things. The supercharger pulls hard and is almost instant. I like it very much coming from a turbo bb6 prelude, I wanted something simple.340 whp is plenty good for me on the street.
I'm not Dave Dozier so I keep things simple... :cool:
 
That means, [with the CTSC] you don't need a crap load of gauges or computers to monitor stuff or rely on some gear head at a tune shop to keep things safe by correctly tuning it.

No, you just rely on your lack of gauges and computers to keep you ignorant of the fact that it's not tuned correctly. I know, that's the downside that your simplicity earns you. :wink:
 
No, you just rely on your lack of gauges and computers to keep you ignorant of the fact that it's not tuned correctly. I know, that's the downside that your simplicity earns you. :wink:
I'm still envious of your garage. Give me another month or two prior to speaking with me.:biggrin:
 
I'm not Dave Dozier so I keep things simple... :cool:

Ouch, but I really do not think you can safely add forced induction to a NSX and keep it much if any simpler than my setup, however you can do it a whole lot cheaper by using a single turbo, CTSC or used BBSC.

Given your performance goals of 340whp the CTSC is a decent choice but to do it safely you will have the same issues to deal with that any other FI system has, the main ones being IAT control and engine management. Right now even at your 340whp target you will have IATs in the 240-260 degree range if you do any sort of spirited driving, hit the track and well they will be higher and you will not be making 340whp. You will be lucky to be making 310whp after the system heat soaks. You can take your simple system and add either chemical cooling (meth), mechanical cooling (aftercooler) or not worry about it and live with the decreased performance and increased stress added to the engine and drive-train from the additional heat and knock potential.

The CT guys chose to not worry about it and work with what they could control. They decided to add a lot of fuel to aid in cooling the boosted air entering the engine. This works short term but has long term effects on engine health from oil/fuel contamination. So as a minimum you should use a quality synthetic oil and change it more often to keep the oil from becoming diluted by the additional fuel. Ultimately the real fix is to complicate the simple CTSC system and add in the needed systems to keep IATs, Fuel and Spark under control and the engine safe. You also have to keep in mind the design goals of the CTSC when it was designed, they had to engineer a bolt on product that was 50 state-legal and could be installed by the Acura dealer network. These factors made it necessary to be SIMPLE.

Dave
 
Ouch, but I really do not think you can safely add forced induction to a NSX and keep it much if any simpler than my setup, however you can do it a whole lot cheaper by using a single turbo, CTSC or used BBSC.

Given your performance goals of 340whp the CTSC is a decent choice but to do it safely you will have the same issues to deal with that any other FI system has, the main ones being IAT control and engine management. Right now even at your 340whp target you will have IATs in the 240-260 degree range if you do any sort of spirited driving, hit the track and well they will be higher and you will not be making 340whp. You will be lucky to be making 310whp after the system heat soaks. You can take your simple system and add either chemical cooling (meth), mechanical cooling (aftercooler) or not worry about it and live with the decreased performance and increased stress added to the engine and drive-train from the additional heat and knock potential.

The CT guys chose to not worry about it and work with what they could control. They decided to add a lot of fuel to aid in cooling the boosted air entering the engine. This works short term but has long term effects on engine health from oil/fuel contamination. So as a minimum you should use a quality synthetic oil and change it more often to keep the oil from becoming diluted by the additional fuel. Ultimately the real fix is to complicate the simple CTSC system and add in the needed systems to keep IATs, Fuel and Spark under control and the engine safe. You also have to keep in mind the design goals of the CTSC when it was designed, they had to engineer a bolt on product that was 50 state-legal and could be installed by the Acura dealer network. These factors made it necessary to be SIMPLE.

Dave

You should publish some books Dave. Always informative reading your posts. My quote was meant to mean I am a simpleton compared to your engine knowledge. Have a good Sunday.
 
Thanks to everyone's input especially daves. I can see everyone's point of view and I guess helping me understand the force induction side of life is not so simple. There may not be a safe choice and living in Cali doesn't make it any easier with smog. I now understand that which ever force induction route I choose I will have to face the consequences of the challenges it may come with just as sduff@composites stated. There is no guaranteed safe way around it. Again thanks everyone for contributing. Hope this thread helps others who are also on the fence. As for me, I'm gonna grow some balls. Thanks:biggrin:
 
I posted this on another thread. It maybe a little helpful here. Good luck with your decision. http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/140806-Science-of-Speed-SOS-twin-turbo-vs-Lovefab-turbo

I read this thread and others when I was going through the boost/not to boost and if so which system to install decision. Most everyone on this thread has some valid points of view. Turbo2go's experience speaks for itself and his views among others weighed heavily as I went through the thought process. I’m sharing this for other folks who may be on the fence about this or any other modification.

Once you have your NSX, how do you plan to use it? Some like to look at their car most of the year in the garage. Nothing wrong with that if you really value your car is an investment. Some are weekend or car show driven, some are track rats, some are daily drivers and some are a little bit of some or all of the aforementioned. All of these scenarios should dictate how or even if you should add boost or modifications. My car is a weekender that gets one or two long trips and track time at NSXPO each year. Plus, I have no intention of ever selling it so I’m going to enjoy it and make it my own with select mods including boost of some sort. I have always liked the look and handling of the stock NSX. I had a bone stock 91 in the past but my 02 being a Targa lacks the stiffness of the 91. After driving a 500 HP Lambo and a Ferrari, I found the additional HP intoxicating even for street use. Turbo2go is correct. My 91 and maybe my 02 in a professional’s hands could keep up on a tight road course with most cars. But, I don’t aspire to that level so one HPDE a year is a fun learning experience for me. To me, the value of my car is in how much fun I have driving it and the adventures and friends my son and I have found along the way. With all of that in mind I started my research.

I decided that I wanted the look of my car to remain stock down to the wheels (except the exhaust as most of us change that) and that anything that I added to the car would be as close to OEM or JDM as possible or it had to look like the factory installed it. Basically, a sleeper with some hidden updates or upgrades. I took a ride in a CTSC and a Lovefab turbo car. The SC car seemed to have a more linear pull than the turbo but much less HP. But the SC would mean losing my OEM engine cover so that was out. But I did some research on a few different turbo kits. All were high quality kits from reputable venders like Angus and Lovefab. However, the SOS seemed to fit my requirements and Chris was awesome to work with. (BTW, I live in Texas so there are no EPA tests to worry about so turbo it is.) My NSX Guru in San Antonio was also part of this process so he knows what I’m looking for when it comes to installation. It must look like Shigeru Uehara and the factory did it. My HP goal was whatever 8 lbs. of boost will get me as long as it’s under 425 rwhp. The stock NA2 engine and clutch is strong enough to handle the power as long as I’m not constantly dumping the clutch or hitting the rev limiter in every gear. With installation, there was no cutting except for the small wire braces attached to the driver’s side spat for the intercooler to attach inside the quarter panel. The turbos are tucked up against the underside of the heads so they aren’t seen except when the car is on a lift and even then they are hard to see. All of the pipes were powder coated black (an option that’s offered by SOS.) so looking from the top of the engine bay the only noticeable change is the black blowoff valve in place of the airbox. And most importantly, I had one of the best tuners in the country do the tune when the installation was completed. I modded the chassis and suspension with NSX-R braces and sway bars plus Bilstein shocks on the stock springs. In keeping with my "Sleeper Theme", I updated the ignition system with a keyless system. (The starter button is mounted where the key would be inserted). I installed the Grom Bluetooth adapter for the OEM stereo system and exchanged the OEM voltage meter in the cluster with a rare boost gauge from Grupe M, manufacturer of the original gauges. So to the untrained eye the car looks perfectly stock.

The point of this very long description is to illustrate one man’s thought process to mod or not mod his NSX. The bottom line is it’s your car, do what you want with it. But, save yourself some aggravation, don’t do it on the cheap and do it right with the best parts and installation available. Sorry for the novel but, I hope this is helpful to someone.

Epilogue: I had the honor of meeting and discussing in detail my turbo installation with Shigeru Uehara, a man who normally doesn’t like mods to his designs, at NSX Fiesta this past October. After seeing the pictures of my installation, he said it looked good and was conservative enough to remain reliable. He asked a lot of questions. Though he may have been just being polite, it’s very reaffirming to get approval from the master.

It's been 19K miles since the turbos were installed and no issues. I've been running the stock clutch the entire time and with 98K total miles on the clutch it has not slipped. But, I don't dump it. I let the car get rolling before I throttle up.

I'm using a piggyback F\IC and the OEM ECU. Like I said, I wanted the most Factory like installation and I have the HP set where I want it at 415 to 420 rwhp. To me that's the NSX's sweet spot. Traction control still works well and the car doesn't get all squirrely. It's a nice linear pull like what you'd expect from naturally aspirated or SC. In fact, that's one of the things that drew me to this kit.

The kit comes with 750 cc injectors and a larger fuel pump to handle the need for fuel. In fact the kit comes with everything you need to do this right. But installation is the key. I'm lucky in that I have a NSX tech that's been working on these cars since 91 and he's a bit anal about the smallest details. Also, I have a great and reputable tuner to make sure it all runs smooth.

Though, the temperature in the engine bay is noticeably warmer, my temperature gauge shows the engine running a little cooler than before. I use water wetter in the coolant system for both the engine and turbo system. I think the heat issues on the new NSX have more to do with the total propulsion package. Electric motors produce a fair amount of heat as do turbos and the several computers that operate that car. Combined I'm sure it gets pretty toasty in there.

The system on my car works very well. The only issue I seem to have is that I will get a O2 sensor code when I drive the car at a higher or lower altitude. The ECU struggles to adjust for the change right away and throws the code. Usually the code goes out on it's own when the ECU adjusts. But in a couple rare instances I've had to reset the ECU by pulling the clock fuse. That's pretty rare. So far I have no regrets. The additional power is fun but, I don't drag race idiots that want to see if theirs is bigger than mine. I drive it as if it were a 500HP Lambo or Ferrari. Go fast when the road is clear and dry. And as for mpg, I still get just over 26 mpg on the highway if my foot isn't in the turbos and about 12 mpg in the city because it's fun getting to 35 mph in a hurry.

Here in Texas we are blessed with 75 to 85 mph speed limits on the open roads and also some very tight curvy roads that 30 mph is a challenge. So there are plenty of places to play without getting into too much trouble.

I hope this is helpful.
 
Once you get that itch for power in my opinion turbo is the way forward.

When you start pushing more power you get that extra thrill and start competing with faster cars, then you think if only i had a bit more then more.

With a turbo setup this is a option, it's very modular. With a supercharger you are kinda limited to how far you can go.

Some point down the road you will be changing out the pistons and gaskets because you want even more power.

My setup has hardly any lag, this isn't really a issue these days.

I guess the question is: Once you have installed your charger or turbo setup will that be enough power in the future? or will you get that itch/temptation for more? because a turbo and supercharger kit don't differ much in cost, if you go supercharger and want more then you are very limited and may then want to go boosted to get that extra power.

Twin and single is preference, both capable of making similar power levels, both cost again about the same. I prefer the idea of single myself it's allot closer to the mufflers and sounds awesome. I can't comment in response as i wouldn't know how a twin responds but if your worried about lag with a single, don't be. As long as it's a decent kit with the research and sized correctly.

There are advantages for both but biggest for you is CA smog restrictions which realistically means supercharger.
 
I have read many of the fi and build threads on prime over the years...and without a doubt turbos are not for dummies: :wink: and not for folks on the ramen noodle plan:eek:
 
.....ouch...make sure you take a multi vitamin :eek:
 
I have read many of the fi and build threads on prime over the years...and without a doubt turbos are not for dummies: :wink: and not for folks on the ramen noodle plan:eek:

You are right sir. Turbo kits are a bit more complicated than a supercharger. Depending on your driving habits and power goals, both have a history of reliability if installed properly. Just make sure you buy the best components. As doing it on the cheap can be a recipe for disaster.

Once you get that itch for power in my opinion turbo is the way forward.

When you start pushing more power you get that extra thrill and start competing with faster cars, then you think if only i had a bit more then more.

With a turbo setup this is a option, it's very modular. With a supercharger you are kinda limited to how far you can go.

Some point down the road you will be changing out the pistons and gaskets because you want even more power.

My setup has hardly any lag, this isn't really a issue these days.

I guess the question is: Once you have installed your charger or turbo setup will that be enough power in the future? or will you get that itch/temptation for more? because a turbo and supercharger kit don't differ much in cost, if you go supercharger and want more then you are very limited and may then want to go boosted to get that extra power.

Twin and single is preference, both capable of making similar power levels, both cost again about the same. I prefer the idea of single myself it's allot closer to the mufflers and sounds awesome. I can't comment in response as i wouldn't know how a twin responds but if your worried about lag with a single, don't be. As long as it's a decent kit with the research and sized correctly.

There are advantages for both but biggest for you is CA smog restrictions which realistically means supercharger.

I agree with everything you said. However, I guess I looked at my build different than most. I have no intention of adding more boost. My goal was to find the car's HP sweet spot which I believe is about 400 to 425 rwhp. The car still launches under control with almost no wheel spin. I can see how HP is an addiction but, that can bring other costs and contrary to popular belief, there is such a thing as too much HP. Unless you are a drag racer. But, the NSX isn't the ideal drag car. However, with about 400 rwhp, on a road course and in the hands of a driver more capable than I, the car can now keep up with most more modern sports cars on the straights.

I chose the SOS twin turbo set up because it's the closest to what and how the factory would install. (Similar to NSX 2.0 in fact.) The two small GT25R turbos are only about 4 inches away from the engine exhaust ports which reduces turbo lag to almost nothing. (Though, I do love the sound of turbos that are closer to the end of the exhaust.) My turbos are spooling at between 2000 and 2500 rpm. I initially wanted to go with a supercharger but because I wanted the car to remain stock in appearance, I wanted to keep my OEM engine cover. As you said, this is all a matter of personal preference and has more to do with how you plan to use your car. That should dictate which way you go and how much to spend.
 
Ive had an Angus kit for 4 years. 67 mm journal bearing. Begins making 1 psi at 3000. Full boost like a cheetah at 4000. 7.5 psi is where I'm tuned.
I have a simple manual boost adjuster. The only time I fool with it is in the winter when its colder in Florida I can see my boost gauge hit 8 psi so I back it off 1/2 turn.
My tune has had no issues. AFR always steady below 12. The car is fast. Not GTR fast but new Corvette fast, New M5 Fast, Mercedes 550 fast.

The injectors are 440's which are a great match for the F/IC. I had 2 unplanned issues. One, my F/IC had a bad internal maf or map sensor. AEM
fixed it for free but it did take some time to properly diagnose. Issue 2 was my stock clutch did not hold up to the torque. My system pumps out
335 ft lbs at the wheels. That's about 60-75 more than a high boost SC and about 30 ft lbs more then some other turbo systems at the same RWHP and boost.
My car was also tuned on a mustang dyno which are the lowest reading ones. I ended up installing a SOS 6 puck clutch. It grabs great!

Good luck with which ever direction you go in. I've had 5 glorious non turbo and 4 turbo years and wouldn't go back.
 
Given your performance goals of 340whp the CTSC is a decent choice but to do it safely you will have the same issues to deal with that any other FI system has, the main ones being IAT control and engine management. Right now even at your 340whp target you will have IATs in the 240-260 degree range if you do any sort of spirited driving, hit the track and well they will be higher and you will not be making 340whp. You will be lucky to be making 310whp after the system heat soaks. You can take your simple system and add either chemical cooling (meth), mechanical cooling (aftercooler) or not worry about it and live with the decreased performance and increased stress added to the engine and drive-train from the additional heat and knock potential.

Well said..... More people should keep this in mind, when comparing options. To many new NSX owners, turbos appear to be only a few more horses than a CTSC, which is false. Regardless of dyno numbers a low boost CTSC in reality once the system heats up will put down 310-320whp and high boost maybe 330-340whp... A turbo will put down 100whp+ more than the "true" output of a CTSC... Years ago the low 300's real CTSC whp was at least sufficient too keep up with most cars, noways the truth is a CTSC car will not even keep up with new mustang... so whats the point?.

the California community would benefit drastically from NA options and further advancing the ECU tuning capabilities using SR5guy's definitions that no one pays attention to...... if not more and more $30k cars will keep flying by the CTSC cars.

I blame the CTSC's false expectations, for how far behind N/A development is on the NSX in the US, in japan all people run is NA or turbo, many run cams, increased compression, itb, strokers ect ect. and make some seriously fast track cars, that would likley smoke even many turbo cars around a track. here i dont see any CTSC's setting the track on fire, because the reality is they don't.

There are other options:
3.5 stroker C35 or J35 that will put down true 350-375whp and almost 300wtq all the time.
Serious weight reduction: I've reached a 7.2PW @ 2500lbs and put down almost 300whp (nearly as much as what a true CTSC puts down). Thus allot faster than even the usual weight reduction 2800-2900lbs CTSC car 7.7PW, or actually almost as fast in straight line as a 3200lbs 400whp turbo car 7PW... but with 30% lighter weight and similar PW light NSX will be much faster around a track. (but keep in mind serious weight reduction while retaining full interior is not "cheap" and will cost more than a twin turbo)
Even just changing pistons to 12:1 compression and a good tune can achieve low 310-320whp, the same true power level of a CTSC. add cams and 320-330whp is possible
Not to mention the CTSC adds about 75lbs in the uppermost & rear-most of the car. The absolute worst place possible.

Also keep in mind adding power is a one dimensional upgrade, whereas weight reduction improves everything, braking, acceleration, handling, reduced stress on chassis, suspension & drive train which will net more overall results than just adding power. and theirs no CA smog regulations to limit you.

I don't really intend to completely bash the CTSC, and overall its decent upgrade, but people should properly categorize and understand what they are.
 
Last edited:
Well said..... More people should keep this in mind, when comparing options. To many new NSX owners, turbos appear to be only a few more horses than a CTSC, which is false. Regardless of dyno numbers a low boost CTSC in reality once the system heats up will put down 310-320whp and high boost maybe 330-340whp... A turbo will put down 100whp+ more than the "true" output of a CTSC... Years ago the low 300's real CTSC whp was at least sufficient too keep up with most cars, noways the truth is a CTSC car will not even keep up with new mustang... so whats the point?.

the California community would benefit drastically from NA options and further advancing the ECU tuning capabilities using SR5guy's definitions that no one pays attention to...... if not more and more $30k cars will keep flying by the CTSC cars.

I blame the CTSC's false expectations, for how far behind N/A development is on the NSX in the US, in japan all people run is NA or turbo, many run cams, increased compression, itb, strokers ect ect. and make some seriously fast track cars, that would likley smoke even many turbo cars around a track. here i dont see any CTSC's setting the track on fire, because the reality is they don't.

There are other options:
3.5 stroker C35 or J35 that will put down true 350-375whp and almost 300wtq all the time.
Serious weight reduction: I've reached a 7.2PW @ 2500lbs and put down almost 300whp (nearly as much as what a true CTSC puts down). Thus allot faster than even the usual weight reduction 2800-2900lbs CTSC car 7.7PW, or actually almost as fast in straight line as a 3200lbs 400whp turbo car 7PW... but with 30% lighter weight and similar PW light NSX will be much faster around a track. (but keep in mind serious weight reduction while retaining full interior is not "cheap" and will cost more than a twin turbo)
Even just changing pistons to 12:1 compression and a good tune can achieve low 310-320whp, the same true power level of a CTSC. add cams and 320-330whp is possible
Not to mention the CTSC adds about 75lbs in the uppermost & rear-most of the car. The absolute worst place possible.

Also keep in mind adding power is a one dimensional upgrade, whereas weight reduction improves everything, braking, acceleration, handling, reduced stress on chassis, suspension & drive train which will net more overall results than just adding power. and theirs no CA smog regulations to limit you.

I don't really intend to completely bash the CTSC, and overall its decent upgrade, but people should properly categorize and understand what they are.
Take it easy brother. Eat a snickers. Your blood sugar is low. Not everyone here is a track rat or on an endless quest for power. I bought a ctsc not only because I live in California," I lived in Florida for 16 years" but because it blends seamlessly without bullshit. Yes I spent 11,000 dollars including installation for it. After owning it for a year, I would never take it off. It was exactly what I wanted. A boost in performance without bullshit. No high idle, no engine tear down, no countless hours tuning. I could go on and on but I will not. Some people grow tired of tinkering. Some do not. It is what I prefer in my time here on earth. If I want a faster car, I will just freaking buy one... But I think ct engineering is a stronghold and always has been for the Nsx. Try selling your highly modified Nsx on eBay. You will not even come close to asking price. Take the same car with a ctsc and sell it. Bet it is gone in a week. The topic has been beat up countlessly.
I did all my homework buying a ctsc. I know its power limitations as do everyone else who buys a 10,000 dollar kit. It is no secret and your not really bringing anything into light which has not been hammered on before.
 
Last edited:
Eat a sinkers and low blood sugar? maybe you were offended by my statements to make more people aware the CTSC is not what its all cracked up to be? If your OK with mediocre performance and big optimistic dyno numbers and think 270 degree intake temperatures are a good thing than more power to you. the rest should be better informed. The OP is new, and thus although you state the subject is hammered to death, the OP was likely not aware.

I have no clue why resale is even part of the subject.... Especially since I have received allot of offers to buy my NSX in its current state, for allot more than I've ever seen an NA1 CTSC car sell for.. And track rat?.... Sorry my car still looks like a showcar from all angles inside and out and far from a stripped / abused track rat. http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/20151216_131325.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6 not to mention its only seen a handfull of track days in 10 years.
So I don't know even know what your talking about. No rough idle here, since I'm still on OEM engine internals, and it looks like a relatively stock car. especially compared to other modified cars.
You are making many assumptions. and even built engines don't automatically have rough idles.
All I did was make sure the OP and body else out there is fully aware a CTSC is not anywhere near comparable to a turbo. nor the N/A options.

yes you have pointed out the CTSC is a plug and play install with absolutely zero tinkering which is I also mentioned.... Well that pretty much takes all the fun out of it for many people that enjoy tinkering inclding me... I enjoy the dyno, I enjoy taking things apart.. so to each his own.

im not sure if your $11,000 comment was to sound like its allot of money... I spent over $10k losing the most recent 150lbs. and it was allot of fun. :) worth every penny... if i get $0 back it was still a damn great time. Considering I have car that competes with $100k+ cars its still relatively cheap fun.

Rock on with your high resale car goals to make the next owner happy, and I will continue with my goals of maximum enjoyment during my ownership. we both end up happy.

$5-6k gets a 12:1 pistons and 3110cc with oem sleeves bored to 92mm which will make 320whp all day.
$10K buys a 3.4L stroker bottom end build fully installed with labor (without headwork, retaining oem sleeves bored to 92mm TODA specs) using brian crowler stroker kit will make a solid 350whp all day.
either of those that's worth allot more fun than a CTSC. and can be run on a tuned OEM ecu... My post was just that people should be better informed and aware there are other options.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top