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Negative review - Mile High Acura, Denver CO

Joined
19 March 2015
Messages
158
Location
Chadds Ford, PA
I wish I didn't have to write this, but I have to file a negative report on some engine work done by Mile High Acura in Denver for my car's previous owner, Honcho. Many of you are already aware that MHA replaced the head gaskets as a result of an overheat (on NSXPO's track day, no less) caused by a mistake they made when installing his KoyoRad radiator the day before. That whole thing is documented here on Prime, I'll add the link if anyone wants it.

As documented in my "My Rebuild" thread here: while my car was at Ben's for another issue he did an inspection and found a slew of major problems related to the work MHA did for Honcho. Here's the list of issues he found, pretty much in the order he reported to me.

1. Several wiring brackets and clips missing w/ wires left hanging dangerously close to exhaust parts.

2. The oil filter pedestal was leaking, improperly installed.

3. Oil was seeping out from behind front bank timing cover. On disassembly found the cam caps were improperly installed/tightened, some of the screws offered little/no resistance to the wrench, resulting in the oil leak.

4. Bigger oil leak coming from behind the middle timing cover - the gasket was missing.

5. EGR valve was leaking at the gasket, not fully tightened.

6. Not liking how things smelled, Ben decided to pull the heads and found them to be improperly torqued and the gaskets were already leaking. Fortunately the seepage was going back down a return channel and not into a cylinder.

7. The machine shop that checked the head/deck surfaces and did the valve work said the deck had been cleaned "with a scotch pad on a whizzer wheel" and rendered the deck out of spec for the MLS head gaskets we wanted to use, and barely within spec for OEM gaskets.

8. When reassembling the left rear upper control arm (which is notoriously difficult to align), the bolt was cross-threaded so badly that the threads were almost completely stripped out and the bolt was in danger of pulling out under hard driving.

All of this was after they left a bleeder screw loose when they installed Honcho's radiator, resulting in his overheat the next day, and breaking one of his OEM NA2 headers when putting the engine back in. And if the issues with the engine and rear upper control arm weren't caught when they were, they would have resulted in major engine damage and the possible loss of a wheel at some point in the future.

I personally saw items 1 - 4 during the initial inspection and Ben sent pictures of the damaged control arms, so I know these findings to be facts. Other owners in the Denver area may want to consider them when deciding where to have their cars serviced. To be fair, all of this lies squarely on the technician who did the work (and who is no longer there) and not MHA in general, who seemed to be pretty good about fixing the initial mistake. But it's their name on the letterhead.
 
It's hard to find good people that have the experience and ability to focus on such an intensive task like this. To be fair, I've heard of engine rebuild problems from even the most reputable NSX vendors on this website. Especially in an automotive dealership work environment, the technicians are always getting pulled 10 different ways at a time on "quick jobs that come in" or helping a buddy a few stalls over. You really have to break up this work into smaller tasks and then stay focused until they are completed.

It's good you took it to Ben to identify and resolve these issues. He's one of the very few on this forum where I have never read a complaint on the quality of his work.

To be fair, using a scotchbrite pad on Item 7 is OK if you are using a new OEM C30 carbon/paper head gasket (as you noted). You only need to machine the block/heads if there is minor warpage OR if upgrading to a multi-layer HG that requires a very smooth surface finish to seal against. My only concern with using a scotchbrite pad with the block and heads mostly assembled is ensuring none of that stuff gets into the engine internals.

Also, for Item 8, rear upper control arms shouldn't have to be touched for an engine rebuild. The lower control arms are typically unbolted to pop out the driveshafts if you are completely separating the transmission from the cradle, but I don't recall seeing MHA do that in the pictures Honcho posted during the rebuild a long time ago. This was probably caused during some other maintenance.

Sorry to hear about those issues.

Dave
 
Ben knows what he is doing. He's had my car since last November bringing it back to life, including a lot of extra options I decided to go with that have caused the delay. He's a great guy, communicates well, and does an excellent job. He's not inexpensive, but not because he charges an unfair amount of money for the work he does. On the contrary, he finds things that others miss and offers to fix them at a fair price. I'd rather have a perfect car under his care than an imperfect car that costed less to fix and I am totally on board when he tells me that something needs to be replaced. He treats my car like it is his and I am thankful to live close by so that I can continue to have my car serviced by him for many years.
 
Sorry Dave, I can't see any excuses for the sloppiness of the work on this job. First, I checked with Honcho and he said they didn't pull the rear control arms for this job so they're off the hook for that one.

As for the deck cleaning, both Ben and the machinist said a scotch pad on a high-speed wheel is bad for an aluminum deck. Even Honcho said you can use a scotch pad by hand but not on a wheel. So I'm gonna go with what they said. And it in fact did affect the deck surface. It was not in factory condition, way out of spec for the MLS gaskets we wanted to use, and was barely within spec for the OEM gaskets. If we weren't using the ARP studs with the greater torque they can provide, Ben would have wanted the deck machined.

As for anyone can make a mistake, yes, anyone can; I've found mistakes by very reputable technicians in the past. And yes, a shop floor can be a distracting environment. None of that excuses the sloppiness of the work here. A mistake or two, maybe. But all the missing, loose, and improperly assembled parts here - this was a rushed, IDGAF job, plain and simple. They were losing money and time on this job, they were doing the work for free to fix the damage from another sloppy mistake, and they (he) just threw it back together as fast as he could. Ben found plenty of other evidence of rushed work that didn't rise to the level of a complaint here. His exact words were "Whoever did this just threw this engine back together". So again, I'm gonna go with what he said.
 
Hello group,
I am very new NSX owner, but can still related to the challenges of finding good shops/mechanics to work on your cars. It sounds like Ben has a fantastic reputation, but lives on the east coast? Does anyone have experience, or heard of a good shop for NSX work in Colorado area?
Thanks
 
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