No cluster lights when key in 'on' position

Hi, I have no cluster lights when the key in in the 'on' position. When I crank the engine it starts but immediately dies.

All other electrical functions are ok. Battery terminals good, fuses all check ok.

Car was driving fine then just cut out.

Am thinking it could be the main ignition relay, the one behind the drivers seat?

Please chime in

Thanks

Bad or dirty ignition switch.

jwmelvin said:

Bad or dirty ignition switch.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks, will have a squiz when I get home tonight

In the meantime:

Removed the ignition switch which is really easy, 2 screws to remove the under dash tray and 2 more screws on the switch, then simply unplug and pop it open. On the inside was a lot of old grease and arching gunk. I cleaned with acetone, filed the arc'd damage flat and reassembled with dielectric grease.
Works a treat.
Thanks jwmelvin

Nice! Glad it worked and wasn't too hard. Thanks for reporting back.

I found this info very helpful but it did not fix my issue which is the same as reported above. I took the switch apart and cleaned with
paint thinner. Only thing I had at the time. Also I did not have any Dielectric grease. Would the lack of grease be a problem?
Are there any other solution to the " I have no cluster lights when the key in in the 'on' position. When I crank the engine it starts but immediately dies."
problem???


- - - Updated - - -

PS: I already replaced the main relay.

[MENTION=33231]deady156[/MENTION], that's so typical of the ignition-switch symptoms that I'd probably try replacing the ignition switch. Perhaps other have further ideas.

The problem is most likely the ignition switch; however, diagnose first. There is a test procedure in the service manual for checking the operation of the ignition switch (there are links in the PRIME Wiki to the service manual). Carry out the test and confirm that the problem is the switch before forking out the $ for a new one and then find out that the problem is elsewhere.

The lack of dielectric grease will not cause mal operation of the switch. Dielectric grease will not improve operation of the contacts. GB Ox Guard (Home Depot) would be a better choice as it improves the operation of the contacts. Paint thinner is also a poor choice for cleaning the contacts. It is low volatility and can leave a residue on the contacts which does not help. IPA would be a good substitute cleaner. If the contacts are bad, you might need to burnish them with some 600 - 800 grit abrasive. Don't go overboard.

Thanks to all and sorry for the delay in replying to the above helpful hints. The switch solved the problem as suggested.
I was not aware that it would come as a complete remove and replace unit with a snap connection. This allowed me to
swap it out in a matter of minutes since I already had the under dash cover removed and been through the process of
unscrewing the switch to try the cleaning.
Lucky for me the cost was discounted by the local Naples Acura dealer. This has kept my life time repair expenses over my
13 years still under $1000.00. Not sure how many owners of a fantastic super car can say that.
Thanks again
PS: incase you are interested I have replaced both master and slave clutch cylinders, Brake Master cylinder, Master Relay and now the switch.
I did all but the brake Master cylinder myself. That happened a few months after I purchased the car in 2004 and was not savvy on NSXPrime.
All and all a good story.