Morimoto 2 Stroke LED headlight install with flip up headlights

So I've always been interested in how much "better or worse" an LED bulb is in comparison to an HID bulb in headlights. I went out on a limb and bought a Morimoto 2 Stroke LED 9006 kit from Valiants Racing in Savannah, GA.

I referenced Jason's HID DIY for disassembly/assembly of the headlights.



So I received the headlights and I was satisfied with the product and packaging. I was a little worried because there are only 2 LEDs (SMD's) per bulb. I think it's interesting that it's a universal bulb but comes with a twist lock base (dependent on what kind of bulb you are installing). I also like the fact that the ballast box is much smaller than with HID kits I've installed in the past. You do have to install the locking collars for the bulb before you mount the 9006 base to the bulb.



The installation kit come with new dust caps that are smaller than the OEM covers. Also the OEM covers are too shallow because the new headlight has a bigger base to accomodate for the cooling fan and heat sink.


After some research and a few trips to Home Depot, I decided to drill a hole in the OEM cap and push the cap that came with the kit through to give the bulb the clearance it needs. I used a 2-1/8" hole saw to solve the issue. the hole is drilled slightly off center because the bulb doesn't sit exactly in the middle of the headlight opening.



It's a pretty tight seal, but you should probably add a bead of silicon all around to help completely seal it off. So since the new cap is tapered, there isn't enough room for the 9006 plug to remain under the cap with the bulb. There wasn't enough wire to run it anywhere, so I depinned and rerouted the plug. (I marked the ground wire with a black dot)


So the I decided to run the power wire (white) back through the oem grommet, then the negative wire (black), out the same hole so there wouldn't be any open holes in the grommet. I then repinned the plug, then cut a small x in the new rubber cap to feed the wire for the bulb out and finished plugging in the rest of the kit.



The ballast mounts in the same location with plenty of extra wiring available for clearance.



And the finished product (compared to a halogen bulb).


Both completed.




Shout out to Joe G. in Florida. Thanks for being someone I could spitball ideas with.

Great writeup, Toyo.

Here are a few additional photos showing how the wires are rerouted.




It's helpful if you apply either silicone grease/lube or vaseline to the pins before pulling them through the grommet. I used Sil-Glyde.






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Retrofit has told me that they are going to their supplier for the rubber cups to see if they can source a larger diameter cup that will slide over the existing OEM cup. This won't save anyone from having to drill a hole in the OEM cups, but the hole size will only have to be large enough to fit the round connector from the lamp to the voltage regulator. It may also end up being large enough to accommodate the OEM connectors.

I have a question. Most LEDs do generate heat at the base thus why they have a tiny electric fan mounted to the rear. Philips brand uses a heat sink instead. Seeing you have sealed your unit, my question is, how will the heat get vented out? Could it create a fire hazard if used for long periods if not? Nice write up BTW.

davidf said:

I have a question. Most LEDs do generate heat at the base thus why they have a tiny electric fan mounted to the rear. Philips brand uses a heat sink instead. Seeing you have sealed your unit, my question is, how will the heat get vented out? Could it create a fire hazard if used for long periods if not? Nice write up BTW.

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The bulb has both a heat sink and fan. I also increased the area by trimming some additional material off of the supplied cap. The dust cap only keeps most dirt and water out, but it does not make it air tight since the area is open to the interior of the housing. Even still I plan to check how hot it gets after having the lights on for a period of time. If I feel it could benefit from some additional cooling I'll drill two small holes in the bottom of the oem dust cover.

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Here are some additional photos of my installation. I found that if the inner sealing ring is trimmed off of the supplied rubber cup it allows the cup to be pushed further into the OEM dust cap thus eliminating the need to offset the 2 1/8" hole drilled into the OEM cup, and has the added benefit of providing more space for cooling between the cup and the LED lamp base.
Installation time takes a little over 2 hours.

Before photos of the standard low beams taken at dusk.

After LED's installed - taken at the same time in the evening.

Later at night

I really like that light output. I'm sold. :wink:

Thanks for sharing. Once they've got the fitment issues sorted out, I'll buy one.

neuronbob said:

Thanks for sharing. Once they've got the fitment issues sorted out, I'll buy one.

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Fitment is not a problem. Installation is a piece of cake now that we figured out how to do it.



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HI BEAM 9005 UPDATE: I recently installed the 9005 Hi Beam bulbs. The installation is the same as for installing the low beam bulbs. With both bulbs installed the wires that had been routed through the rubber plug into the interior of the housing are now all external. Make sure to coat the round amphenol connectors from the bulbs and the voltage regulators with an electrically conductive grease. You can use a di-electric grease on the threads and orings, but do not use it on the pins. For the pins use a conductive grease such as copper based Never Seize.

Nice write up. I have hids and might upgrade to leds. Id like to follow up in a few werks to see how the lights are still running

cousindeagle said:

Nice write up. I have hids and might upgrade to leds. Id like to follow up in a few werks to see how the lights are still running

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Sure thing.
Joe

Great write up....I have led in my 69 mustang and my 72 Datsun and they are great....one question did you order the anti flicker