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So, this just happened.....

Sorry to hear about the engine Jinks. Looking forward to your epic engine build thread.

What happened to IK2GO's car? I had been following his build thread, but the updates dried up about a year ago...
Yes, what RYU says. The car was totaled. Rob is ok though from what I have heard, which wasn't much from Shad.After a long conversation with Shad, I will most likely be going low comp pistons, cometic head gaskets, 10 psi pulley, and a DA aftercooler. Making up to 430 hp to the wheels on the 3.0 liter. My other option was to just slap on the larger blower like 1K2GO had but that costs more than aftercooler. I will most likely stay on oem ecu but add aem fic with larger injectors and a new fuel pump. But that is, if the piston actually failed. I will know in a few weeks and will start a build thread for people to cross reference for insurance of their ctsc' motors.

Now for the the barrage of reply's of why I am keeping my oem ecu?

Talked to Shad about it, he told me I would absolutely hate a stand alone and that the car will NEVER run like it did from the factory with one. I cannot argue with that. But I am sure everyone here will. So, when he talks I listen... He knows how I like my cars, hassle free. Some later model cars is a totally different story. Drive by wire/obd2 etc. So, I have little doubt that he cannot make the car work perfectly to my needs.
 
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Yes, what RYU says. The car was totaled. Rob is ok though from what I have heard, which wasn't much from Shad.After a long conversation with Shad, I will most likely be going low comp pistons, cometic head gaskets, 10 psi pulley, and a DA aftercooler. Making up to 430 hp to the wheels on the 3.0 liter. My other option was to just slap on the larger blower like 1K2GO had but that costs more than aftercooler. I will most likely stay on oem ecu but add aem fic with larger injectors and a new fuel pump. But that is, if the piston actually failed. I will know in a few weeks and will start a build thread for people to cross reference for insurance of their ctsc' motors.

Now for the the barrage of reply's of why I am keeping my oem ecu?

Talked to Shad about it, he told me I would absolutely hate a stand alone and that the car will NEVER run like it did from the factory with one. I cannot argue with that. But I am sure everyone here will. So, when he talks I listen... He knows how I like my cars, hassle free. Some later model cars is a totally different story. Drive by wire/obd2 etc. So, I have little doubt that he cannot make the car work perfectly to my needs.

You should stop going by the philosophy of when certain people talk and listen and do blindly. I have much respect for shad and what he does, however to stay fic I think is ludicrous. Computer systems are so advanced now that really the only thing I can think of that can't be worked out like oem would be the start up because that's one thing I notice with mine, but honestly don't care if I need to hold the ignition key another 2 seconds. Other then that they are superior in every way besides price, and depending could help save a motor.
 
You should stop going by the philosophy of when certain people talk and listen and do blindly. I have much respect for shad and what he does, however to stay fic I think is ludicrous. Computer systems are so advanced now that really the only thing I can think of that can't be worked out like oem would be the start up because that's one thing I notice with mine, but honestly don't care if I need to hold the ignition key another 2 seconds. Other then that they are superior in every way besides price, and depending could help save a motor.

I am not currently on aem fic. Only stock ecu with rising rate fuel pressure regulator which comes in the ctsc kit. Trust me, I do not have many options in California. I think this one in particular is one of the very few I can do and get away with lawfully. I am basing my build off of 1K2GO's car which ran the exact same thing for fuel management. It passed smog and ran extremely well. I agree the stand alone units have come a long way. But for my build, which is based off of a simple supercharged set up is a good solution and E85 isn't even available here.
If I were turbo, then yeah the oem unit would seem pretty useless. But I am limited to what I can work with in my state.:mad:
 
I am not currently on aem fic. Only stock ecu with rising rate fuel pressure regulator which comes in the ctsc kit. Trust me, I do not have many options in California. I think this one in particular is one of the very few I can do and get away with lawfully. I am basing my build off of 1K2GO's car which ran the exact same thing for fuel management. It passed smog and ran extremely well. I agree the stand alone units have come a long way. But for my build, which is based off of a simple supercharged set up is a good solution and E85 isn't even available here.
If I were turbo, then yeah the oem unit would seem pretty useless. But I am limited to what I can work with in my state.:mad:

I gotcha. I guess full stand alones will not pass inspection in CA? I'm not familiar with the laws other then you guys banned foie gras at one point and have stupid smog rules.
 
Sorry to read of your misfortune, [MENTION=31260]Jinks[/MENTION]. Looking forward to your coming engine build thread. I am learning from your experience as I may someday go CTSC on my NSX. I plan to enjoy NA for a while longer, though. :)
 
Sorry to read of your misfortune, @Jinks. Looking forward to your coming engine build thread. I am learning from your experience as I may someday go CTSC on my NSX. I plan to enjoy NA for a while longer, though. :)
Thank you, and don't let my misfortune prevent you from buying one. They are almost bulletproof safe. I have an old ass car. I am interested in what we find wrong when the car gets to my mechanic and I will share the result here.
 
The only reason to use FIC is if you need OBD2 compliance. Otherwise it seems crazy not to go standalone. Especially in an OBD1 car, where you don't have access to the fuel trims.
 
oh my................ Not sure if I should respond because my pedestal for DA is getting lower and lower each day.

I have a 1991 OBD1. My standalone is lightyears better than even the OEM tune. Idle is better. Startup is fast and consistent. Tip in throttle super smooth. Heat management is excellent. It takes tuning time but the resolution of a new ECU far far surpasses the OEM unit and especially a bandaid solution like OEM + FIC. I'd only go with a piggyback if I really had no other option.

At the end of the day, it sounds like you're married to having DA do your work. I always try to follow the preference of my tuner since he's working on your car at the end of the day.
 
oh my................ Not sure if I should respond because my pedestal for DA is getting lower and lower each day.

I have a 1991 OBD1. My standalone is lightyears better than even the OEM tune. Idle is better. Startup is fast and consistent. Tip in throttle super smooth. Heat management is excellent. It takes tuning time but the resolution of a new ECU far far surpasses the OEM unit and especially a bandaid solution like OEM + FIC. I'd only go with a piggyback if I really had no other option.

At the end of the day, it sounds like you're married to having DA do your work. I always try to follow the preference of my tuner since he's working on your car at the end of the day.

I thought your on an hks f con piggy back?
But naw, I'm not married to DA at the moment. The car might even go to sos for a TT build if I list my house this summer and move back to Ft. Lauderdale. The car will get towed to Shad in two weeks. I will know more then.
 
I thought your on an hks f con piggy back?
But naw, I'm not married to DA at the moment. The car might even go to sos for a TT build if I list my house this summer and move back to Ft. Lauderdale. The car will get towed to Shad in two weeks. I will know more then.
I started on a HKS piggyback yes. That's how I can say with experience that a standalone has significant advantages if the tuner is willing to tune properly. The HKS piggyback is already much better than the F/IC and I still prefer the stand alone. I'm not going to push HKS here (even though I think it is awesome) because I know it is not widely supported here in the US.
[MENTION=31260]Jinks[/MENTION] - sorry i missed your PM. I made room in my inbox now.
 
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I started on a HKS piggyback yes. That's how I can say with experience that a standalone has significant advantages if the tuner is willing to tune properly. The HKS piggyback is already much better than the F/IC and I still prefer the stand alone. I'm not going to push HKS here (even though I think it is awesome) because I know it is not widely supported here in the US.
@Jinks - sorry i missed your PM. I made room in my inbox now.
So my next question is; How are you passing smog without going in for a tune prior to testing or without greasing palms?
What stand alone do you currently run?
 
So my next question is; How are you passing smog without going in for a tune prior to testing or without greasing palms?
What stand alone do you currently run?
I have a base map that's a smog map. You still need the EGR, cats, and all smog equipment but the tune is the easy part your tuner just needs to know how to tune for smog and if he's worth his reputation it will be easy for him. Before you dive down into the standalone route you need to lock down your tuner first. In CA you'll likely find someone who prefers the Infinity AEM ECU but it's my understanding that's as capable of an ECU as any of the modern ECUs.

I'm running an HKS F-Con Vpro v3.3

hks_fcon_pro_v3.jpg
 
Saw this posted on NSX Prime FB today.

C30a engine for sale, 93K miles, running engine, serviced at 60K, compression within specs, mls head gasket, butterfly delete spacer, egr delete. $4300 shipped
 
Sorry to hear Jinks. If you come to South FL, hit me up. I'll tell you my opinion is to fix the NSX reasonably or J swap it cheaply with a shop that wants to mess with that idea. That K swap idea seems cheap but I would argue it would cost more than buying another $30K old high mileage beat up NSX.

If I am moving back to Florida this coming year yes. But I would opt for the K20 turbo. If staying in California, no. I cannot boost it. Besides, Shad still has a race spec comptech motor sitting in the shop that was meant for Rob's track car before it got totaled, who knows. First things first is find cause then decide a solution. For all I know, my fuel pump could have failed or maybe it was in fact just a bad head gasket. But I concur with the fact that the dip stick flew out of the crankcase as a blown piston or rod which Shad and SDuff has mentioned. It's just a shitty ass situation anyway you slice it.
 
Saw this posted on NSX Prime FB today.

C30a engine for sale, 93K miles, running engine, serviced at 60K, compression within specs, mls head gasket, butterfly delete spacer, egr delete. $4300 shipped
Where at?
 
Saw this posted on NSX Prime FB today.

C30a engine for sale, 93K miles, running engine, serviced at 60K, compression within specs, mls head gasket, butterfly delete spacer, egr delete. $4300 shipped
Roger, would you mind having them contact me? PM me for details.
 
The car goes in to see the doctor tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Will start a build thread if the motor is shot. Long as I don't just buy a used motor.
 
When my last Built NA motor died I bought a nice long block from a guy who happened to smush his car. Very nice to just plug and play.
 
I have a few members here offering their spare engines for sale, which is fantastic. I will compare costs with wants and needs of a built motor for comparison after the diagnosis tomorrow. The used engine thing does sound like a good idea.
 
I think you should look into your setup further. With blowing your motor you need to find the cause and figure it out because sticking it into a setup that's not functioning properly will just blow the next one.
Thanks. Whichever way I choose, an all new fueling system will be installed. Injectors, fuel pump, and at a minimum a fic.
 
The doctor gave my nsx 3 months to live. Unless it undergoes immediate surgery. :eek:

Loaded up for dr appointment.
IMG_0211.jpg
Then, on the stretcher at the docs.
IMG_0212.jpg
Final diagnosis: All pistons actually look okay, but no compression. The rings however are complete toast. A leak down test with pressurized air confirms HUGE leaking from the coolant reservoir as well as the oil fill cap/heads. The motor is now junk. Two tears in a bucket, mother f-it.

The cause: After deep discussion, it was almost certainly confirmed that I had slow leaking head gaskets that finally gave way. Even though from an undercar inspection, they looked fine. Once it gave way, the water blowing into the cylinders blew apart the rings. See, I had to top off my coolant about 2 months ago by 1.5 quarts with no signs of leaking. I also had to let air escape from the system after topping off. I thought nothing of it.... BIG mistake! It had nothing to do with fueling or anything like that. So for would be ctsc owners, it is extremely rare for a motor to blow with an off the shelf kit. But it can happen. But this one looks like my own negligence to stop and think.

Options: A full build with more boost or a used motor swapping my still new ctsc. I am still deciding. A used motor has the same garbage head gaskets. So, if I do that, we will be back here again at some point. Whichever route I choose, look for a build thread coming. I came so close to buying a gt-r but I just couldn't stomach it. Plus the fact that the transmission is garbage and costs as much as my full motor build with new clutch. :tongue:
 
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