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Honcho's NSX-R Track Weapon Build Project

not there......copart has better looking wrecks...Id rather track a car with at least intact frame rails
 
Front clip, Doc. Weld solid, straight frame rails on to factory datum. Macninja style :)
 
lol I'd rather go gangnom style:eek:
 
No- still in planning stage. Not sure if salvage is the way to go. That was just an example.
 
yes ....cage the beast!!!!!
 
Track car? ...should have just bought a Miata lol

Like you said Regan, it's about the drama. Nothing sounds like an ITB NSX at full song on the back straight. I want that. :D It's just that I don't think it is worth hacking up a perfectly good, clean title car for this project. Re-thinking cams though. Going back through all the cam threads, I'm seeing a lot of problems. Broken retainers (Ti and Fe), etc. Docjohn lost an engine. Maybe ITB stroker with stock valvetrain is the best option instead.
 
Hi,

Like you said Regan, it's about the drama. Nothing sounds like an ITB NSX at full song on the back straight. I want that. :D It's just that I don't think it is worth hacking up a perfectly good, clean title car for this project. Re-thinking cams though. Going back through all the cam threads, I'm seeing a lot of problems. Broken retainers (Ti and Fe), etc. Docjohn lost an engine. Maybe ITB stroker with stock valvetrain is the best option instead.

My B18C 10.000rpms engine showed me that Ti retainers are good if you open up the engine often.
Friends used OEM retainers and never had a problem, even at that high rpm.

Nuno
 
Like you said Regan, it's about the drama. Nothing sounds like an ITB NSX at full song on the back straight. I want that. :D It's just that I don't think it is worth hacking up a perfectly good, clean title car for this project. Re-thinking cams though. Going back through all the cam threads, I'm seeing a lot of problems. Broken retainers (Ti and Fe), etc. Docjohn lost an engine. Maybe ITB stroker with stock valvetrain is the best option instead.
I was mostly kidding but everything sometime breaks I'm always wondering why I didn't get a Miata track car. Eagerly awaiting your progress!
 
If you go with hotter cams and aftermarket springs imho you need to inspect them at least every 2 years...or just replace....
 
I was mostly kidding but everything sometime breaks I'm always wondering why I didn't get a Miata track car. Eagerly awaiting your progress!

Gotta find the right shell. Ideally one that is solid/straight from the front bulkhead back with a crumpled front that can be cut off cleanly (on further inspection, the one I linked to above looked like the front firewall was bent- no good.) Then, find a straight front clip. Based on the prices I'm seeing, you will be thousands less than even the most beat up NSX (cheapest I've seen lately is $23k and that was an automatic). Those thousands can be put into the ITB, engine, harness, cage, chassis bars, etc. This won't be a collector or show car- it's just for me.

If you go with hotter cams and aftermarket springs imho you need to inspect them at least every 2 years...or just replace....
Agree. I don't want to open the engine every two years. I'd rather be on the track. The issue will be if 3.5L ITB will be enough at 5,000 ft altitude, assuming a 2,500 lb car. I think it will.
 
After further discussions with some folks, including macninja, it looks like I'm down to two chassis options:

1. Wreck with rear end damage (easier/cheaper/safer to repair than front end)
2. Worn out rat of a NSX with clean title (200,000+ miles, no maintenance, lots of owners, bad paint, etc.)

Since all the for sale listings right now appear to be "all original" "collectors" cars, I'm asking my Prime peeps to keep your eyes open and let me know if you see something that fits the above! I registered on Copart, so I have that source covered as well. Does anyone know if ERZ Auto (Toth bros.) is still in operation? I know they had quite a collection in their yards back in the day.
 
After some more thought on the subject, I think I'm going to cage the car. It will be a 90% track use vehicle. My safety comes #1 , especially if it is a salvage/rebuilt chassis. I now have to update the massive excel spreadsheet budget I am putting together!
 
I just read where the new Ford GT has the FIA roll cage integrated into the street cars.:cool:
 
Quick update- still no good shell to be found for the right price. NSX prices are crazy right now!
 
Initial Project Planning

So, while I wait for some stock options to vest in order to fund this whole project, I've done some more thinking and would value the Prime community's input.

My budget for this project is $75k with a $10k reserve for stuff that happens lol.

That will guide all of the below decisions, but I think it is doable if I am patient, find the right car, collect parts at deals, etc. I am in no rush. Our stock is in the toilet right now, so this will be a multi-year thread. Considering Anil spent $100k+ on his NSX-RR, I'd like to come n below that. Of course, I'm not starting with a 2002+ that needs a roof welded onto it...

First, I think I'm settled on a NA2 NSX-R look. The NA2 R is the NSX that inspired me to get my first one and if I am going to have my "last" NSX, it should be this one. I considered importing a real one from Japan, but it is RHD and I don't want to deal with that hassle on US roads. So, I will convert a US car as close as possible. It looks like most of the more obscure R bits are still available (door badges, trim pieces, etc.). Even the suspension looks like it is still available in Japan and can be procured with an exporter. I'll probably use my guy who helped me with my KSP and Fujitsubo parts on the old car. As for seats, it seems there are three options: pay $12k for real R seats, pay $4k for Downforce replica seats, or get the AS Motorsport versions, which look like they are based on the Recaro Pole Position shell. Thoughts? I'm leaning toward the DF seats, but has anyone tried the ASM?

Second, I'm torn on powertrain. My initial thought was to save cost by rebuilding the 5MT with a 4.4 Giken diff. With the USDM gears, this would give a fairly good track shifting range on a NA application. But, if it is going to be a "real" R, it should be a 6-speed. Apparently, you can still order the A61 trans from Honda Japan for about $8k. II would still have to get the NSX-R input shaft and a diff, whether ATS or Giken. Overall, going with a 6MT adds about $12k to the cost of the project. Geez. Is there any way to do it cheaper? A used 6-speed, maybe? I've seen a few come across the marketplace, but all will need a complete rebuild and that is about $3k. Thoughts on Giken vs. ATS diffs? Or should I just save some bucks and go with the OEM NSX-R diff (basically a 5-speed diff with a different spring loading)?

Then there is the engine. I'm going with a ITB (ScienceofSpeed) 3.3L rebuild. My 3.0 NSX felt just not quite there at 6,000 ft altitude where I live. Despite the headers and exhaust, it felt about 50 whp short of perfect. Between the increased displacement and ITB, I think this would easily get me there and keep the car NA, which as a purist I think it should be. My goal is to have a NSX-R that pulls hard and revs free like the real one, including at altitude. Would cams even make sense for an ITB-only build? The KSP Stage 1 look interesting... I'm not sure which way to go.

Third- suspension. If the R suspension is still available, I think I'm going that route, as it is a big part of the soul of the car and how it feels. For about the same price, however, I can get JRZ RS or KW V3. It seems like the RS are the best track option, as the tuning is wide and the dampers are light. Durability would probably go to the KW because of the steel construction vs. aluminum in the JRZ, right? I would still go full non-compliance and replace all of the rubber bushings, regardless of suspension choice. I think the JRZ might be the best move if the R suspension is not available new.

Finally is the chassis itself. Early on, I thought it made the most sense from a budget standpoint to find a wrecked 91-94 5-speed and repair the body. The logic being that I am going to hack up the car and engine and repaint the whole thing to convert it to an R anyway, so doing that to a pristine example is a waste of a perfectly good NSX. But, looking at what is available and then adding in the cost of sending it to Joe L. at Vince's Auto to repair it correctly, puts me back at about the cost of a non-salvage, average-condition NSX. I was hoping the right wreck + repair cost would land me at about $20k. Is that even realistic? If not, then other options make more sense:

1. The most appealing is the 91-94 automatics. I've seen them for as low as $24k even in this hot market. Since I plan on buying a separate 6-speed trans and potentially running different cams with full engine management, the "down sides" of an automatic do not apply here. I realize I would need to find the shift lever and linkage assembly, plus the pedal assembly and other bits. However, those are fairly easy junkyard finds. It seems then, that this might be my best option for my budget.

2. An additional potential option is finding a 91-94 coupe that has already had the 2002+ conversion done. This would save about $9k off the cost of the project. Thus, assuming I would be willing to pay $25k for a rough 91-94 automatic, I would pay up to $34k for one that has had the conversion. Just to see, I ran my spreadsheet below using dablackgoku's NSX that is for sale right now. Assuming he would take $35k for the car, the total cost of the build would be $90k to $96k depending on whether I go 5MT or 6MT. That's way over budget, so I would need to make some changes in design choices, but interesting to note is I could get about $7k back in selling parts I don't need from that car. Thus, it seems like this strategy might work for the right 2002+ conversion, if the numbers are right.

Below are two of my project spreadsheets I'm using to figure out how to fit this into a budget. The first assumes my $20k salvage rebuild chassis. The second is my exercise using dablackgoku's current NSX for sale. Feel free to comment on what I'm missing. Also, these are all for brand new parts. I assume there are many thousands of dollars to be saved by either going into the marketplace for used bits and/or negotiating with the vendors for bulk purchase discounts.

Salvage option:
NSX v2.jpg

Here is the workup on dablackgoku's car. I'd have to find $15k in savings to make it work:
NSX v2 goku.jpg
 
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