Cracked Dash Piece Part Number

Does anyone have the part number and/or price of the small trrim piece that sits forward of the dash and typically cracks? I'm gonna pull my center console and stereo to get to the back of the stereo, so I thought I would go ahead and remove the dash and replace this piece. It bugs me.

are you refering to the piece that runs the length of the dash from side to side and has the a/c sensor in the middle?

Yep, that's the piece. The one that's cracked on virtually every car.

Hi KP,

77446-SL0-A01ZC
Garnish, FR. Defroster NH1L (Black)

This is the piece that goes the full width of the dash. Applicable for all years 1991-2003.

Please check in the on-line parts book to verify it is the piece you want, I am thinking it may be a little pricey.

HTH,
LarryB

Yeah, it is going to cost you a pretty penny. When I was having a new evaprator installed the whole dash was out. I asked how much for a new trim piece and I think the number was in the $300's. The only time you can get it out is when the dash is out so unless you have the dash out, or plan to have it out, it is going to cost you upwards of $600 just to replace that little piece of plastic!

As a side not, once I heard the price, I decided to live with the cracked piece and had them put it back in

Hope this helps

Isn't there any way to permanently repair the crack once you have the part out of the car? I have had great success with Plastic Welder (a 2-part epoxy made for plastics) in other applications.

Dang, Larry -

As long as I've been around here and then I don't use the great resources provided by Lud. Tsk tsk. The on-line parts catalog is sooo cool. Anyway, thanks for looking that up.

Frank at Niello says the price is $263 but after discount $210. I'm a masochist, so I ordered it. Ouch. Geeez, I'm looking forward to pulling the dash out...

Thanks for all of the input guys.

How is the VIN tag# removed and transferred over to the new piece? Just curious.

svalleynsx said:

How is the VIN tag# removed and transferred over to the new piece? Just curious.

Click to expand...

I don't think the VIN is on that piece.

I don't think the VIN is on that piece.

Click to expand...

After further inspection you're correct. There was a previous thread long ago regarding cracked dash pieces and that little VIN plate. Looks like it's on the piece that actually goes along the edge of the glass.

svalleynsx,

Don't give up so easy. You were right. The VIN tag IS attached to this plastic piece, unfortunately. However, it is easy enough to transfer. Since the rivets are just in plastic, they press out in tact. The new piece is pre-drilled. I enlarged the holes just a little and then the vin tag and rivets pressed in - very tightly. I placed a dab of hot glue on the back side of each rivet as added insurance.

Well, the Bose upgrade/ dash fix project is a little involved. Not for the timid!

kpond, How long did it take to you to get to that point?

Oh, it's not that bad. I started after work on Friday evening and it probably took about two hours to get everything disassembled. You see, I am kind of attacking two projects simultaneously. This whole thing started with a desire to replace my Bose amp and speakers once and for all. I have placed some MB Quart components in the doors and I am going to utilize the space where the subwoofer was to mount my amp. In fact, as of right now, the amp is in.

When I placed the new speakers in the doors, I noticed that the factory had four wires routed into each door that pertained to the stereo. Two were power and ground (a nice 14-gauge wire) and the other pair were pre-amp in wires which were about an 18-20 gauge. Since I was removing the in-door Bose amps, I elected to utilize the power/ground pair as my new speaker wire. The advantage was that I didn't have to route new wires into the doors (a major PITA), but I did have to get to the connector in each kick panel so that I could substitute my speaker-level in wires for the aforementioned power/ground wires. Per the FSM, it is required that you remove the dash to get at these connectors. BTW, even with the dash removed, the driver's side connector is a PITA to get at and work with. Thankfully, that is behind me now.

Anyway, the only way I rationalized to remove the dash (instead of just routing new speaker wires in) was so that I could replace the darn cracked trim panel.

I have some commitments today with the kids (going to Magic Mountain!) but hopefully I have a couple of hours this evening to start buttoning things up.

I wish no one had mentioned this cracked piece! LOL! I didn't really notice the split to be anything more than a separation at the joint. So, after reading the post, I made a closer inspection and it is clearly a crack. I don't think I noticed it because I purchased the car in July and it appears that with heat the trim piece swells a bit and it was not noticeable. Now with cooler weather, and having read this post, I realize it is a crack. Now I notice that I have two cracks about 3/4 of an inch apart between the sensor and the windshield and another single crack from the sensor toward the raised piece of trim.

So, any thoughts on using plasticweld on the cracks and then a vinyl type repair kit to cover the repair? I recognize this is in a very difficult spot to reach, but with a little tlc I think it can be reached. The real concern is the liklihood that torsion will cause the repair to crack at the same spot in the future.

Perhaps I should just take a deep breath and leave it alone!

OK guys, I can't post a mid-project picture like that first one without providing a progress report from this evening. I only had a couple of hours to work on it tonight, but here's the result.



I need just a little more time to get the center console on and the glove box back together. That harness on the dash is from the driver's a-pillar that hold my boost and fuel pressure gauges. If you want to see what I did with the stereo and the results, go here.