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Thread: remove rain shield on front brakes?

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    Registered User DCNSX's Avatar
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    remove rain shield on front brakes?

    Will this help prevent the dreaded "brake shudder" I get from the front brakes at the track? (I have a '91 with stock brakes and pads). How long does it take/how difficult to remove the rain shield? Should the rain shield be replaced after the track event (I rarely drive the NSX in the rain). PS- I don't track the NSX often, maybe 2-3 times per year. If I were to upgrade the pads, what's the best combo for street and occasional track use? Will better pads reduce the shudder? Thanks.

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    Charter Silver nsxtasy's Avatar
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    Originally posted by DCNSX
    Will this help prevent the dreaded "brake shudder" I get from the front brakes at the track?
    No, but removing them may lead to premature failure of the ball joints. John Vasos of Acura of Brookfield (the leading servicer of tracked NSXs in the Midwest) recommends not removing them, because doing so would allow the heat from the brakes to bake the ball joints.

    The shudder is caused by lack of proper bedding procedures, as noted in this paper on the Stoptech website.

    Originally posted by DCNSX
    Will better pads reduce the shudder?
    No, but bedded pads will reduce the shudder. Note that the purpose of bedding the pads is not just to get the surfaces to physically mate, but also to leave a uniform coating of pad material on the surface of the rotors.

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    Registered User DCNSX's Avatar
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    Ken- Thanks very much for the article. Very informative. It also explains why the front discs will eventually "correct" themselves after the shudder develops. If the disc were truly warped, it would stay warped and presumably get even worse over time.

    So, any specific recommendations on braking technique to keep the heat down? Is short, intense braking better than braking earlier and less intensely (but over a longer distance/period of time)?

    And lastly, a tidbit I learned at the track from a guy with a digital thermometer (can't remember the actual name of the device). He recorded significantly lower brake temps by driving around the paddock (or better yet adjacent service roads) for 5 minutes or so after your last lap. Those few minutes (using the brakes seldom or not at all) made a huge difference in the pad/brake temps.

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    Awaiting Email Confirmation NSXLuvr's Avatar
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    Is the rain shield the same as the front splash guard? Dano's website shows how to remove the front splash guard.

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    Charter Patron NSX-Racer's Avatar
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    Short, intense braking is better.
    The last lap of a session should always be a cool down lap. Usualy there is no need of cruising through the paddock afterwards. Just keep the car in the shadow for half an hour before the next session (don't use the E brake of course).
    www.fastvoice.de - english (okay, some kind of)/german with NSX content

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    Registered User wildbill846's Avatar
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    Shorter, more intense braking is better because less time on the brakes means more time for them to cool. If you drag out your braking zone, you're giving the brakes less and less cooling time. Also, your last lap should be driven with miminal to no brakes for all the cooling you'll need.

    I really had to put that to work at Carolina Motorsports Park a couple weeks ago....very brake intensive track. Damn, my brakes got hot.....cooked my caliper paint (the Dali kit) right off. But my Carbotech Panther Plus pads held up fine...

    Bill

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