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Fumoto Oil Change Valve
- Thread starter Hugh
- Start date
I've had one on my NSX for years. Works great. Someone will likely reply and say that the spring could fail, and you could lose all of your oil in a few seconds. Anything's possible.
Ben
Ben
Some S2000 guys use it and swear by it.
I don't change the oil in the NSX enough to justify it. It would take a lot of crush washers to justify the cost $22 + $6 ship = $28
$28 / $0.10 = 280 crush washers.
I would probably get it for the daily driver where I change the oil 3-4 times a year, but on the X where I change the oil 2x a year due to time not mileage, it is not worth it to me. Also, the Fumoto site states that if you are lowered, you should check clearance as the plug is about 3/4" long for the one without the hose fitting. I am 1 1/2 lowered so it may not be a good idea if it hangs down too low.
HTH
I don't change the oil in the NSX enough to justify it. It would take a lot of crush washers to justify the cost $22 + $6 ship = $28
$28 / $0.10 = 280 crush washers.
I would probably get it for the daily driver where I change the oil 3-4 times a year, but on the X where I change the oil 2x a year due to time not mileage, it is not worth it to me. Also, the Fumoto site states that if you are lowered, you should check clearance as the plug is about 3/4" long for the one without the hose fitting. I am 1 1/2 lowered so it may not be a good idea if it hangs down too low.
HTH
I ordered one and will install it at the next oil change which seems to be a monthly event for me.
Here is an online review of the thing.
Here is an online review of the thing.
Hi Hugh,
We have used this exact valve from Fumoto for many years at my shop. They work great and we have never had a single failure with 100s installed over 6-7 years. We do not use the fiber washer that the part comes with, we use the OE crush washer instead. Clean the fiber material off the surface well before using an OE crush washer. The only problem that we see is an occasional valve that is not in the upright position when fully torqued. We never leave these valves in any position other then vertical so that they are hiding behind the oil pan and can not be reached by flying road debris. If yours ends up in a less then desirable position be very careful and ease it around to a satisfactory position. If you are using a new OE crushwasher instead of the fiber washer that it comes with you should not have a problem. Lastly, these valves drain slowly so always have the oil nice and warmed up before attempting to drain. If you have any questions or concerns you can email me through my web site's contact form.
Chris
www.TucsonHondaService.com
We have used this exact valve from Fumoto for many years at my shop. They work great and we have never had a single failure with 100s installed over 6-7 years. We do not use the fiber washer that the part comes with, we use the OE crush washer instead. Clean the fiber material off the surface well before using an OE crush washer. The only problem that we see is an occasional valve that is not in the upright position when fully torqued. We never leave these valves in any position other then vertical so that they are hiding behind the oil pan and can not be reached by flying road debris. If yours ends up in a less then desirable position be very careful and ease it around to a satisfactory position. If you are using a new OE crushwasher instead of the fiber washer that it comes with you should not have a problem. Lastly, these valves drain slowly so always have the oil nice and warmed up before attempting to drain. If you have any questions or concerns you can email me through my web site's contact form.
Chris
www.TucsonHondaService.com
Thanks CK_SB.
I'll use an OEM crush washer as you suggest. As far as the torque settings, do you tighten them to the OE spec as well?
Thanks!
I'll use an OEM crush washer as you suggest. As far as the torque settings, do you tighten them to the OE spec as well?
Thanks!
I don't have one on my NSX, but I do have one on my diesel Excursion (3 years now). Works great, and makes my ~4 gallon oil changes a snap.
I have one installed on my S2000. It makes oil changes a snap. I never have to go underneath the car to do an oil change. I can reach down from the top of the engine bay to flip the lever.
My S is almost a daily driver so I enjoy the convenience every 5000 miles. I don't know if I'd care to have one for my NSX. If I'm going to be underneath the car to change the oil anyway, then I can live with the oem stuff.
My S is almost a daily driver so I enjoy the convenience every 5000 miles. I don't know if I'd care to have one for my NSX. If I'm going to be underneath the car to change the oil anyway, then I can live with the oem stuff.
As far as the torque being correct with a valve it is safe to say that it probably won't be perfect. As I recall the crush washers crush at 18 ft lbs. If you can get the valve to torque and also be in the correct position, then obviously this is perfect. When I install these valves I usually "feel" the crush washer crushing and snug the valve around a little more if needed to attain the vertical position. If for some reason you end up at the correct torque and you are 180 degrees out, then don't push your luck and man handle it around, instead look for a thinner crush washer, possibly made of copper, and available on the after market at a parts store. It is usually a straight forward job so don't worry too much about the torque being perfect, just make sure the valve is tight and the crush washer crushed and you will be fine. Good luck.
I have had one on my car for 5 years. No problems, love it. Got the one with the lip so I can hook up a hose that goes right into a jug.
Looking at the receipt for my Fumoto drain valve, I installed a F-106 on my car. The F-106N has a nipple that you can slip a hose onto and since the drain plug is mounted at an angle, that nipple sticks down a bit further towards the ground. NSX oil pans are not shaped in such a way that the ADL-106 adapter (spacer) is required. My F-106 installed perfectly without the spacer.
Anyone have tips on getting the outlet to stick up? Mines been pointing down and it's been bothering me. But I don't want to overtighten and strip out my oil pan.
Stephen
Stephen
Thicker or thinner washers. I bought several and loosely screwed the drain plug into place by hand until I found a combination that allows the opening mechanism to be pointing upwards when torqued down. I think I ended up using three washers. There are still plenty of threads sticking into the oil pan and it hasn't leaked a drop.
For those of you using this on your NSX, is this concern valid?
http://www.amazon.com/review/R1NPAG...e=UTF8&ASIN=B003T7XUE4&linkCode=&nodeID=&tag=
http://www.amazon.com/review/R1NPAG...e=UTF8&ASIN=B003T7XUE4&linkCode=&nodeID=&tag=
I use the Fumoto on all my cars and have never had any problems. As far as not all the oil draining out, I have thought about it, but it still takes the full amount when I put in the new oil so how much could really be left in there?
Thanks Joe! NsXMas and I went to nsxter's house to do our oil changes today, and installed the Fumoto valve on our NSXs. Here are some pics taken during the install process. Huge props to nsxter for his help and the use of his facilities.
I'm not sure what the purpose of the white plastic part here is for, and didn't use it.
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The only failure I've ever seen with a Fumoto valve was a guy running over a cone at an autocross (which happens frequently if you're trying hard enough). The Cone went under the car in such a way that it activated the valve and make quite a mess.
Just remember to look in the mirror if you run over anything that you hear/feel hit the undercarriage to make sure you're not leaving a trail.
Just remember to look in the mirror if you run over anything that you hear/feel hit the undercarriage to make sure you're not leaving a trail.
