Headlights go up...but they don't go down

Headlights go up...but they don't go down FIXED!!!

Having a headlight issue on my (new to me) 94. Seems that both headlights will not retract down. Manually crank them down and hit the headlight "on" knob, highbeam stalk, or head light up button on the dash, and they go up and stay there. Turn off the switches, and they still stay up. Of the 3 relay/fuse boxes in the nose, I noticed 2 missing relays from the small relay box most forward on the right side of the car. Swapped in 2 relays from the same box but it didn't effect the headlights. Questions:

1) location of the retractor relay and/or fuses
2) How to test the retractor module
3) Am I suppose to have 2 missing relays?
4) Is there an online wiring diagram and component locator?

Thanks Allan

Gearbox said:

Having a headlight issue on my (new to me) 94. Seems that both headlights will not retract down. Manually crank them down and hit the headlight "on" knob, highbeam stalk, or head light up button on the dash, and they go up and stay there. Turn off the switches, and they still stay up. Of the 3 relay/fuse boxes in the nose, I noticed 2 missing relays from the small relay box most forward on the right side of the car. Swapped in 2 relays from the same box but it didn't effect the headlights. Questions:

1) location of the retractor relay and/or fuses
2) How to test the retractor module
3) Am I suppose to have 2 missing relays?
4) Is there an online wiring diagram and component locator?

Thanks Allan

Click to expand...

I had this same issue. The problem was a loose wire connection with the button behind the dash.

Hi Gerard;

Thanks, but had the entire dash apart today and everything is connected and working. Any other thoughts? Anyone? Thanks Allan

Once I had an issue where my right light didn't come down completely, but I heard a clicking sound every 5 seconds as it was trying to go down. I contacted a friend with an old MR2 with similiar pop up light system. I can't remember but he told me to turn the black knob next to the popup light clockwise and then you need to get into your car and consisted a pattern of switching the light and then to highbeam. I just can't remember..but it did the trick. I never had the problem again.

Hi Vtec, thanks, but the knobs are to adjust the motor to have the headlight close flush. I can see how it would have helped in your situation. Not sure what the cycling of the high beam has to do with it but what the hell. Spent all day taking apart switches, fuses and relays. I'll try anything at this point. Thanks and I'll let you know, Allan

Ok, nothing seems to work at this point. Motors good, fuses good, wires look good. There's got to something like a relay somewhere. The only relay found was in box "A" which was a Light Relay which didn't do anything with the motors but rather Lights only. Any ideas? Anyone? Please? I'm sure this isn't the first time this has happened. Thanks Allan

See the on line manual http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991_svcman.htm
starting on page 1167

Thanks BrianK, Did all the switch and relay checks today, all working according to the manual. Tommarrow is the interior teardown to get at the Reatractor module. Anyone have any experience with these modules going bad? I know the keyless entry module on my Boxster ran $1000 bucks and I'm sure Accura will be close. Don't think it could be anything else at this point. Well we can hope for a loose wire lol. Thanks again Allan

I had this same problem after I had the Cluster out to fit my Gruppe M Boost Guage. turned out to be the connector for the flip up light button to the Lower left of the Cluster. It seemed to be connected properly but I disconnected & reconnected the the Headlights retracted. A loose pin in this connector I suspect.

Getting close, need an electrical engineer

Ok, checked the switch again, back probed it, and it works fine. Did the reactractor module (behind seats) relay tests today and found something interesting. The way I understand it, the module powers the yellow and white wire with 12volts when any of the light switches, levers, knobs are switched on to raise the lights. Now, in turn, once you switch off the lights, the White and yellow wire (yeah I know, you figure they would use another combination) should recieve 12volts to lower the lights. It doesn't. Just to verify this, I back probed the White and yellow with 12v and the lights retracted. Bad Module right? Well, it seems that the 2 blue wires that should have 12v all the time when the lights are "Stable" (not moving?), they don't (if that's how you test them). Relays good, fuses good, and the motor works. I'm still thinking module, but does anyone know if the 2 blue wires have anything to do with powering the white and yellow? I'll order a new module and see what happens. I'll post my findings Thanks Allan

Good News, Bought a retractor module from Acura and plugged it in today and the headlights work, Yaaaahhooooo. Parts guy mentioned that he sells alot of these so I assume this may be a common problem. hope this information helps someone else out and it will save alot of time, Allan

Good info....i'll have to keep this in mind just in case...
Thank You

If your headlights go up and don't go down for more than 4 hours, I think you're supposed to see a doctor, as it could be a serious medical condition.

Retractor module is the key. It is located behind the driver seat. You dont have to take off all the trim to get to it. All you have to do is take off the very top horozonal trim. To take it off. Just pull hard on the very top of the horozonal trip and you will release one of 3 white anchors.

Dont worry, these are TOUGH! you wont break any of them. The bottom is held down by U shaped clips. Once you free the three anchos, you can just lift up and the tim comes off.

How you'll see 6 moduels. 3 behind the passenger seat and 3 behind the driver seat. The retractor moduel is the one that is on the driver side closes to the center of the car. Just look on the moduel, it will say something like mitsubishi retractor moduel.

There are two plugs, one BIG one at the bottom with like 40 wires and the other is a smaller one with about 6. PUSH both of them and make sure they are connected well. How use the tug and pull method on the big connector and it should hit the sweet spot.

If your light is stuck in the open position when you have the light swtich off, when you hit pay dirt the lights will go down

I just trouble shot this one myself to night. ALSO you can tell if your relay is totally gone if you listen to the CLICKS.

When you turn your light on to the first stage to the marker lights, you'll hear ONE CLICK!

This is the relay making connection for the marker light. Now if you turn on the main lights, you'll hear another CLICK. This is the relay sending the power to the motor for them to pop up.

If you DONT hear the second CLICK. You know that one of 2 things are bad. Either your relay is not working OR your head light (retract button )is bad or disconnected.

In my case. The relay clicked the second time to send the power BUT the signal cable was loose or was not connected right. So despite the relay saying "I dont need the head light any more" the signal is not getting to the light.

NOW TUG AND PULL!

If you only hear one click, check to see that the retrator button is connected properly and then check your relay.

If it is the relay, the usual error is that the wire coil that is used to make the megnetic field is broken at one point. Its an easy fix with a solder iron. Usualy a relay can be fixed about 99% of the time with a little solder to renew the connection. I didnt take this one apart but it shoudl be the same

Good luck. :biggrin:

Gearbox said:

.... retractor module .... Parts guy mentioned that he sells alot of these so I assume this may be a common problem....

Click to expand...

I'm not buying this statement from your parts guy - I have no doubt it fixed your problem but I have never seen any instances of this being a common problem here on 'Prime (actually haven't seen any in recollection, not to say that means there are none) so for a single local dealer to say he sells a ton of them seems unlikely. Incidentally the control unit part number is ONLY used on NSX, no other Aura or Honda vehicles.

Help please!!!

I have the same problem. I checked the fuses and they are fine. I've located the relays but how do I test them? The switch on dash board doesn't have the light on, could this be the source of the problem? I've located the module behind the seat but I don't know how to test it. Can someone help me through this process?

found the problem. after checking the relay, motor, and module. they were all fine. I looked under the steer wheel where the alarm was. the alarm piece was moving around below the steering wheel and causing some electrical contact problem. Alarm now is secure and headlights go down as they should.

dibcompany said:

found the problem. after checking the relay, motor, and module. they were all fine. I looked under the steer wheel where the alarm was. the alarm piece was moving around below the steering wheel and causing some electrical contact problem. Alarm now is secure and headlights go down as they should.

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Is that an OEM alarm unit? I don't remember seeing any below the steering wheel at all.

Thanks for posting this. Could you share the part number for the retractor module?

stevedekorte said:

Thanks for posting this. Could you share the part number for the retractor module?

Click to expand...

38330-SL0-003 CONTROL UNIT, RETRACTABLE HEADLIGHT

This may be repairable just like the main relay........ Open it up, check for bad/cracked solder connections.

HTH,
LarryB

My headlights were giving me issues a while ago. I ended up resoldering things but the real issue was the pin connectors on the drivers side left knee area by the dash. I needed to repin the connector since they come loose for some odd reason.

So I have an issue as well, a bit different. When I turn on the lights or push the button, the passenger side works perfectly. Driver side, nothing. If I lift the hood and start to turn the manual screw, it zips up. Turning the lights off or pushing the button again, it usually goes down by itself. Every once in a while, it does go up by itself. Something loose maybe?

Suggestions?

Many thanks

JohnNapoliFineArt said:

So I have an issue as well, a bit different. When I turn on the lights or push the button, the passenger side works perfectly. Driver side, nothing. If I lift the hood and start to turn the manual screw, it zips up. Turning the lights off or pushing the button again, it usually goes down by itself. Every once in a while, it does go up by itself. Something loose maybe?

Suggestions?

Many thanks

Click to expand...

I recently had the pleasure of diagnosing the same issue. Left side worked fine, right wouldn't go up. Or it would go up and stay up. This rules out the retractor module and headlight switch since that would affect both sides.

First do the easy checks, check headlight motor connector, the 2 15amp fuses and 2 pairs of relays (marked in green). The green arrow points to the 2 brown weatherproof covers behind the right headlight bucket. Swap the relays to see if the problem switches sides.



If those are all fine it's most likely your headlight motor. They are supposed to have plastic covers over the adjustment knobs to keep water out, but over the years these get misplaced and that lets water into the motor. Eventually it rusts from the inside or the diodes/wiring goes bad. In my case I was able to save it by replacing the diodes. I used 1N4002 diodes and they worked fine, probably others would too, just make sure the orientation matches. Don't have good pics but PM me for info if needed.

Hope you get it sorted out!

Alex



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Thank you very much for that excellent guidance. Had the problem with my passenger side years back and they replaced the motor. Hopefully I can recover it. I will reach out for specifics when I get there if you wouldn't mind.

Thanks again!

Welp, this classic 90's problem just happened to me. Lights go up, but not down. I'll check the retractor unit when the car is down for its A/C work and have my solder iron ready.