NSX Secrets?

here is a real secret........ the bolts that are used to hold the injector cover down you use 3 of them during a new OEM clutch install they are used to activate the clutch once activated you remove them and reinstall back on the covers

shawn110975 said:

here is a real secret........ the bolts that are used to hold the injector cover down you use 3 of them during a new OEM clutch install they are used to activate the clutch once activated you remove them and reinstall back on the covers

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That's pretty cool. Never had a chance to use it because went with single disc replacement.

shawn110975 said:

here is a real secret........ the bolts that are used to hold the injector cover down you use 3 of them during a new OEM clutch install they are used to activate the clutch once activated you remove them and reinstall back on the covers

Click to expand...

The process is called "initialization", and really you only need one bolt.......

I do all 3 then as it turns take them out 1 by 1 but you are correct Larry

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I used the wrong word LOL also :biggrin:

Larry Bastanza said:

The process is called "initialization", and really you only need one bolt.......

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Ahhh.. so THIS is the "secret" you alluded to when you were examining my car and told me "if you ever have someone replace your clutch that hasn't done one before and doesn't know the "secret" to get it to work, have them call me immediately because they will NEVER figure it out on their own"!! VERY interesting.

PghMiller said:

Ahhh.. so THIS is the "secret" you alluded to when you were examining my car and told me "if you ever have someone replace your clutch that hasn't done one before and doesn't know the "secret" to get it to work, have them call me immediately because they will NEVER figure it out on their own"!! VERY interesting.

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There is no other clutch I am aware of that requires this process, so someone new installing this clutch would not be aware of it at all........

Regards,
LarryB

Larry, what exactly is this initialization, and what does it do? Curious minds want to know. It sounds like pressing your belly button makes you run faster.

Yes, and is the procedure fully documented in the service manual?

tof said:

Yes, and is the procedure fully documented in the service manual?

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Yes it is.....

Bump

Yinzer said:

Bump

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Are you bumping for information on the initialization process.... if so, basically the dual clutch set up for the earlier model years had an intermediate plate separating the 2 clutch discs. You need to "bump" the intermediate plate (no pun intended) after the first installation of the clutch. The way to push it out of the way is to use some bolts, the 8mm ones off your injector cover will fit to thread into the flywheel at certain points along the flywheel (3 areas I think). Once they bottom out, your plate is disengaged and the clutch should work nicely. Remove the 8mm bolts and put them back on the injector cover, put the black service panel back on the transmission and test drive.

nikey22 said:

Are you bumping for information on the initialization process....

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Hi, no, I was just trying to bump the thread. I really enjoyed this one when it was active a few years ago. Appreciate your response, and hopefully that will be good, helpful additional info for those interested.

Yinzer said:

Hi, no, I was just trying to bump the thread. I really enjoyed this one when it was active a few years ago. Appreciate your response, and hopefully that will be good, helpful additional info for those interested.

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Please update the "seperated at birth thread"!
Love that one!!!!

I learned how to properly close the trunk at NSXPO 2016:

Gently lower trunk until it stops. Place hand on center of trunk. Press down firmly. Trunk locks.

This works on the frunk, too.

Cool secret and I never knew until a year with my NSX. I haven't slammed the trunk or frunk since!

neuronbob said:

I learned how to properly close the trunk at NSXPO 2016:

Gently lower trunk until it stops. Place hand on center of trunk. Press down firmly. Trunk locks.

This works on the frunk, too.

Cool secret and I never knew until a year with my NSX. I haven't slammed the trunk or frunk since!

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The way the secret was told to me was to press on the trunk on its edge with your fingers, directly under the wing, not the middle of the trunk. Then again, it could be you meant that same thing. Same for the engine glass cover, but where that gets a little tricky because you have to be careful not to lean against and scratch your rear fender when reaching over and closing it by pressing the edge of the glass with your palms. For the frunk, I was told to slowly lower it till till almost closed, say with a 5 or 6 inch gap at the edge then remove your hand and let it drop and latch itself. No press.

Yinzer said:

The way the secret was told to me was to press on the trunk on its edge with your fingers, directly under the wing, not the middle of the trunk. Then again, it could be you meant that same thing. Same for the engine glass cover, but where that gets a little tricky because you have to be careful not to lean against and scratch your rear fender when reaching over and closing it by pressing the edge of the glass with your palms. For the frunk, I was told to slowly lower it till till almost closed, say with a 5 or 6 inch gap at the edge then remove your hand and let it drop and latch itself. No press.

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Yeah, better off letting the hood drop from a few inches than pressing it closed once it's partially latched. Maybe aluminium is more resilient than steel, as we had numerous hoods on showroom cars palm dented from deep thinkers over the years.

Yinzer said:

The way the secret was told to me was to press on the trunk on its edge with your fingers, directly under the wing, not the middle of the trunk. Then again, it could be you meant that same thing. Same for the engine glass cover, but where that gets a little tricky because you have to be careful not to lean against and scratch your rear fender when reaching over and closing it by pressing the edge of the glass with your palms. For the frunk, I was told to slowly lower it till till almost closed, say with a 5 or 6 inch gap at the edge then remove your hand and let it drop and latch itself. No press.

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I did, indeed, mean the center of the edge of the trunk. It really does work with the frunk, too, instead of dropping it from a height. The effort required to lock either latch is truly minimal, I use two or three fingers for it. I was astounded at the ease of closure in this way. I'll have to post a video when my car comes out of storage. PS I hope to get back to Pittsburgh for a C&C at some point this year!

neuronbob said:

PS I hope to get back to Pittsburgh for a C&C at some point this year!

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First one was last Saturday, next 12 Saturdays from now. Not NSX secret.

Great stuff here for a new owner!

glad you found it:wink:

Not sure if this is a secret or not, but I have always had a crooked oem hood line on my Nsx. I have seen many oem hoods this way and thought it might have been normal. Turns out, I was missing two big door stoppers near the radiator. Mystery solved!

3rd Gen (NC) MX-5 Miata wind shield washer motor is the same one that the NSX uses......

Bump for a great thread for new owners....

BATMANs said:

3rd Gen (NC) MX-5 Miata wind shield washer motor is the same one that the NSX uses......

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Whoa, I would have never have guessed that. After approx 20 years, the motor manufacture is still using the same design? Is the plug the same too?

I noticed something about my car after owning it for nearly 20 years when I sat on the passenger side with a helmet on...and hit my helmet against the headliner above the window. Funny, that doesn't happen when I'm sitting in the driver's seat. This led me to realize that the passenger seat is closer to the right side of the car than the driver's seat is to the left side of the car.

Does this mean we can claim we have a central driver's seating position like the McLaren F1?

Now I wonder if RHD cars are the same as LHD or their interiors are flipped.