O.k.. I'm getting a new engine in my car. To prevent running lean. I'm thinking of the Haltech E6K, and 550 Injectors. I'm also going to be doing a 2000 6spd conversion witha comptech powergrip II clutch, and fly wheel. I'm going to leave the tranny "stock". What do you guys think of this? I want all opinions! Thanks
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- Thread starter Runutzzzzz
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I would not get the R&P if you get the 6-speed.
Cause I'll shift ever two seconds? Did I forget to mention that I have a twin turbo kit too? Thanks
The reason I don't think you should do both the R&P and the 6 spd is subjective. To oversimplify a little bit, the R&P helps make up for other fundamental problems in the 5 spd design, such as the poor (blame CAFE regulations) choice in gear ratios. I think the 6 spd is such a better design that the R&P solves a problem that doesn't exist - the ratios are much more well thought out.
Look at the performance difference between the 5 spd and 6 spd cars - sure there is a bit more power, and a bit less wieght, but the bulk of the improvement in the acceleration numbers came through the better tranny. I just don't think its worth giving up the highway cruising ability to row through the gears a little faster.
If I were rebuilding my 5 spd (currently with short gears and R&P), I would leave out the R&P this time. With the torque I have, I don't need it and it affects my 80 mph cruise rpm noticably.
Doug races his car a LOT, so it probably makes sense for him.
[This message has been edited by David (edited 12 April 2000).]
Look at the performance difference between the 5 spd and 6 spd cars - sure there is a bit more power, and a bit less wieght, but the bulk of the improvement in the acceleration numbers came through the better tranny. I just don't think its worth giving up the highway cruising ability to row through the gears a little faster.
If I were rebuilding my 5 spd (currently with short gears and R&P), I would leave out the R&P this time. With the torque I have, I don't need it and it affects my 80 mph cruise rpm noticably.
Doug races his car a LOT, so it probably makes sense for him.
[This message has been edited by David (edited 12 April 2000).]
By the way, I forgot to include this in our e-mail exchange, but if your turbo setup has adjustable boost, I would go with a Motec M48 over the Haltech. You will have to go to a Motec distributor to get it installed and programmed, but it is MUCH more versitle. The Haltech runs out of channels pretty quickly and you will need to use one of the for the VTEC actuator.
A list of distributors is available at http://www.motec.com/distribu.htm. Bob Norwood is working on mine.
[This message has been edited by David (edited 12 April 2000).]
A list of distributors is available at http://www.motec.com/distribu.htm. Bob Norwood is working on mine.
[This message has been edited by David (edited 12 April 2000).]
Well the turbos can be adjusted, but that's just trouble!! I just want it for the fuel managment system.. nothing else. Do you think I should even do the 6spd conversion? Or should I just to short gears?? BTE I've got a 95.
thanks
you don't need the 6 speed. Your T is not as sporty as the coupe to begin with, and since you mentioned that you like to do a lot of cruising, than you don't really need the close ratios of the 6 speed. save the money on that one. As far as ECU goes, if you just want to have adjustable fuel curve, you dont need to spend thousands on a Motec, just get a APEXI AFC controller.
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Please visit my NSX tuning page! Mods, Japanese NSX related stuff, pics!
http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/Dojo/6073/index.html
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Please visit my NSX tuning page! Mods, Japanese NSX related stuff, pics!
http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/Dojo/6073/index.html
Well I really want the 6spd! But it's going to run me 7-8K! Which extended warr. will cover about 1-2K of it.. I do do a lot of crusing, but I want to be fast too!
O.k. This is what I really want. Got the turbo kit. I want to be fast all around, from 0-120, from 60-160, from 160-300. You get the idea!
I just want to be a little quicker all around. thanks!
If you are going to significantly increase the injector size, I don't think the Apexi is a good solution. It is a fine unit for what it does, and is great for increasing the amount of fuel over the entire curve, but I don't think it will provide the degree of control you will want over the injector pulse duration. The primary problem with really big injectors is getting the car to idle properly. You will need an engine management system (Haltech or Motec) with precise enough control to really dial it down at idle. Otherwise, the car is going to be way, way to rich at idle.
Also, be very careful while tuning your TT car with the new injectors and new engine management system. A few seconds lean at high rpm and you will be shopping for new pistons. Take it to a shop with a Dynojet that has an O2 sniffer, start rich and dial it down slowly into the correct fuel/air ratio. Also, be sure to run fans right into the intercoolers, because the air charge will be colder on the road and you want to compensate for that as much as you can on the dyno.
Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
Also, be very careful while tuning your TT car with the new injectors and new engine management system. A few seconds lean at high rpm and you will be shopping for new pistons. Take it to a shop with a Dynojet that has an O2 sniffer, start rich and dial it down slowly into the correct fuel/air ratio. Also, be sure to run fans right into the intercoolers, because the air charge will be colder on the road and you want to compensate for that as much as you can on the dyno.
Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
Another thought.........sorry for being so disorganized.
If you are getting a new engine (per your original post) and have not ordered it already, you should get the short block 'decked' by Comptech or JG. It will make a huge difference in the amount of hp you can reliably generate. Unlike, for example, the motor in a Supra, the NSX block is an open deck design and forced induction is really hard on it. Also, if you're going through the short block, you might as well get JE or Arias forged pistons. It will cost a couple thousand extra, but will make a big difference in reliability.
If you are getting a new engine (per your original post) and have not ordered it already, you should get the short block 'decked' by Comptech or JG. It will make a huge difference in the amount of hp you can reliably generate. Unlike, for example, the motor in a Supra, the NSX block is an open deck design and forced induction is really hard on it. Also, if you're going through the short block, you might as well get JE or Arias forged pistons. It will cost a couple thousand extra, but will make a big difference in reliability.
As far as injector goes, you might want to look into the injectors that comes with the Gruppe M supercharger kit. I htink they are off the JDM Prelude Si(or something like that).
------------------
Please visit my NSX tuning page! Mods, Japanese NSX related stuff, pics!
http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/Dojo/6073/index.html
------------------
Please visit my NSX tuning page! Mods, Japanese NSX related stuff, pics!
http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/Dojo/6073/index.html
Well running lean is what happen to this motor. so that's why I'm looking at the Haltech E6K with 550cc injectors, and yes, I'm going to get it tuned on a dyno.
I was going to get the engine upgraded, but I don't plan on raising boost. and it's a brand new enigne that is already ordered from Honda.
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